hot wire my troy bilt

I've been waiting all winter to get a good snow .......we got 12" last nite and i couldn't wait to get my blade working.........and the damn troy bilt wouldn't start......some one strarted with a srewdriver in the past and the key would try to fall out but it has been starting since i got it.......today it decided not to go..[no starter turn]...good battery voltage.....I can't hear the carb solinoid click.......the start solinoid will turn it when shortted and i can get it to run a few seconds with a starter jump.and a shot of gas in the carb......so i have spark...no click on the starter solinoid from the key switch????..........so I'm guessing starter switch decided it didn't want to work in the bad weather.......  

I will order a new switch........My question is ..........how do i hotwire it [ I sure would like to blade some snow}...It is a 7 prong plug...........I'm guessing just two wires??....I don't have any safety switches active on it.......and I never had to do any wiring to it...

@DiGiacomo on the carburetor solenoid there's two wires coming out one gets grounded out and the other gets hooked directly to a 12 volt positive, me personally I got tired of fooling with mine so I took it out and I cut the stopper off with a grinder

Coming to think of it you could probably hardwire the fuel solenoid directly to the battery side of the starter solenoid

ranch king pro 08 wrote:

Coming to think of it you could probably hardwire the fuel solenoid directly to the battery side of the starter solenoid

I would not do that.  It would stay on all the time and possibly burn up.  Except maybe to test.  Like you mentioned, unscrew it out of the carb and cut it off. is the best option.  Just get you a manual fuel shutoff to put in line for when not in use.

@MightyRaze that's a very good point, I should have specified I meant for his temporary hot wiring use he could put it onto the battery side and then disconnect it after just so he didn't have to cut up his fuel solenoid if he didn't want to Lol

Cut the harness far enough from the connectors so you can fit a male 1/4" spade connector on one wire, and a female on the other. Then make a matching pair of jumpers both with fuses. Run one directly to the battery (o-ring), one directly to the seat switch (I assume it is still there unused). Fuel cut off (after fire) should stop when you leave the seat.

You can hook up a cheap $3 horn button to start the relay. If yours is a three post, make sure the frame of the relay is grounded.

I ordered a new switch.......installed.......two new coils installed........no start.....but i got it to turn with key......and got the carb solinoid to activate.............removed both ground wires from the coils......fired right up......I found that the ground wire had rubbed the block and finally shorted thru.....I could see the copper wire.......so i have a new wire with diodes coming......I checked the diodes and they both carry voltage either way........I don't know if you can walkinto a auto store and find these diodes ??? I'll look tomorrow....if i find any I will be able to make a new harness....

thanks for the comments and ideas.......

The Lord of the Tools 20PCS 15SQ060 Schottky Diodes 15A 60V Schottky Barrier Rectifier Diodes Electronic Components for Solar Panel Charger Circuit Product Development

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C77H2S6H?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

I ordered these, have not tried them, I hope to soon.

JB_4x4 wrote:

The Lord of the Tools 20PCS 15SQ060 Schottky Diodes 15A 60V Schottky Barrier Rectifier Diodes Electronic Components for Solar Panel Charger Circuit Product Development

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C77H2S6H?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

I ordered these, have not tried them, I hope to soon.

Whoever took the pictures for that ad was intoxicated when they soldered the connections.

Well, I would say it is rare that the person selling stuff on Amazon actually uses what they sell. Same as the government can outlaw gas chainsaws, but, how many people and presidents (except maybe Reagan) in government have actually used one.

JB_4x4 wrote:

Well, I would say it is rare that the person selling stuff on Amazon actually uses what they sell.  Same as the government can outlaw gas chainsaws, but, how many people and presidents (except maybe Reagan) in government have actually used one.

Lincoln would have used one to chop down that cherry tree if they'd been invented

@TechnoChicken dude that was Washington

ranch king pro 08 wrote:

@TechnoChicken dude that was Washington

Oh yeah lol, I thought it was "honest" Abe
Just goes to show which one of us is the Canadian

> Schottky Diodes 15A 60V

FWIW: I am using one, it works fine.  I tried running without a diode and it appeared to do some funky things, such as feed (-) through the (+) system.

I have been using 5 pin switches, I think I am going to go to all 7 pin switches in the future, except maybe on older RER Snappers.  One main reason is the isolated two pins that are for the headlamps, instead of running to the A/C output,  you can run one to a fused (+) and the other to LED lamps.  

The lamp switch still works as intended and when you switch the ignition off, the lamps are disconnected, so, no battery drain.

I am using a simple lighted on/off switch (3) prong with the default being kill switch on for the seat safety, then when I want to defeat the switch without putting a CMU on the seat, I just flip the switch on the dash.  Center post would be the magneto kill wire.