[Finalist] [24] Mighty's Marshal

@MightyRaze It'll also run off of a 5 gallon propane tank

So, I was very happy to say, the new front axle set up is complete.  Well close, I still lack those 2 holes I mentioned.  The cast axle slipped right in and has nearly zero slop that it did in the flimsy hanger that it came with.



Yep that is all there was to it.

Here is the new setup!



I didn't even need to swap the spindles; came out perfect!  I'm glad as these looked a bit more rugged.  Just trying to determine if I will chop off the old steering link tab or not?  Probably will.  The steering link looks to be pretty close as well.  We'll see. 

As mentioned, a couple holes and the steering link and the steering setup goal is complete.  Off to the transaxle next!  I have my extra gear to the moose knuckle mod for locking.

One of my goals for this tractor, is to have the base tractor built with little to no welding.  Just to show a good mud mower can be built by anyone.  Later in the build though... There will be some cutting, bending and welding involved, but those are improvements and add-ons.

Went to install the steering rod and it was 1 inch too short?   Huh?  So I went and looked at old pix of when I worked on the Roper.  This craftsman has a few more holes in the frame.  One set one inch closer to the front of the tractor.  Those were the ones that set up pretty perfectly for the older front end!  I can't say I am upset.  Steering rods are easy to make.  This one was a little off anyway.  LOL  I was able to use all the adjustment slack in the joints to get it connected for moving it around the garage purposes.  I will be making a new one. One with heims.

Brianator wrote:

That sucks, they're great engines and I'd love to own one eventually! The scrapyard near me has a parts one if you need any bits from it for cheap. It's a M18S spec#24687

Here's mine.

Does the bell crank steering still use the same steering gear as the drag links, just with a linkage instead of a drag link?

And yeah, those front axle mounts suck. That’s what tore off of the GT6k at GER

It’s been a long day and my comprehension is out the door. Hope this answers the question

Stock bell crank and tie rods to the spindle. Custom steering link from the steering gear to bell crank.   Stock steering still from the steering wheel to the gear. Still pretty tight top end.

Video update,  I have some parts coming this week.  Axle seals, some engine replacement parts like breather tube.  Little things.  I hope the one really good day this week I can hit the frame for a freshening up of paint before the bottom falls out of the temps for next week.  Otherwise, I will be on hold for a few weeks until things get "warmer".

yOu ShOuLd PaInT iT bLaCk aNd GoLd

-me

Rustbucket Garage wrote:

yOu ShOuLd PaInT iT bLaCk aNd GoLd

-me

Yes. Please.

Rustbucket Garage wrote:

yOu ShOuLd PaInT iT bLaCk aNd GoLd

-me

You crack me up.

Did get a lot done today though.

Engine is put together nicely now and just ready for a fuel line.



Updated the hubs from 7/16-14 to 7/16-20 and converted to studs and lug nuts.



Changed out the pop-off valve to a barbed nipple for remote venting.



Hardest thing about this trans was getting the input pulley off.  It was stubburn and needed a little heat.



And lastly, I turned on a electric space heater in the garage this morning and by this afternoon I got it up to almost 70 in the garage even though it was only 44 outside today.  Because of this,  went ahead and touched up the frame today with some semi-gloss black.  Looks pretty good if I must say so.

I like these tapered pulleys a lot, even the worst of them are still better than a stuck straight pulley. A little prying under them and give the shaft one good whack with a ball peen and they come right off.

I’m excited to see how that vertical magnum performs, one of the eastern KY guys has a magnum on a wheel horse and it does pretty great.

Confirmed this is the part number for the input shaft oil seal.
National 471466 for Craftsman GT6000, probably other 633 variants too.



New McMaster brake material is cooking.  This will be the 4th time to do this on this style.  All others including the ones I cut out for Kal's brake pads are all working 100% still.



Have it in the house to keep it a bit warm.

I also got a start on an engine mount.  I am thinking 6 inch engine and 7 transaxle for pulley size.  A boost in speed but not crazy speed.  I want to keep as much torque I can in this rig. 



The back plate is ready for paint, but the front one still needs marked for bolts for the engine.

470954 .25" Wide 1.25" OD .75" Shaft Diameter appears to be the correct oil seal for the brake on this transaxle. I got it installed today.


Outside that... not too much done. Been sick. Bah...

How many splines do these axles have?
Browsing ebay for 1in couplers I came across a 1in, 15 spline coupler. Wondered if a person could use it, maybe get more engagement on the spline? Unless its the wrong spline that is.

TheBeal wrote:

How many splines do these axles have?
Browsing ebay for 1in couplers I came across a 1in, 15 spline coupler. Wondered if a person could use it, maybe get more engagement on the spline? Unless its the wrong spline that is.

Looks to be 11 splines on mine.

Also, looks like I will have to figure out beefing up the steering gear.  It is sloppy after all.  Bushing used by ayp is almost paper thin?  Not sure a brass one is that size.  I have Minimal drill it out space too.  Hmm...

I love me a GT6000 build, looking good so far!

Thanks @AllisKidD21.

I went ahead and pulled the trigger on some brass bushings for the steering setup.  It appears that I have enough meat to drill the hole out to 7/8.  if not, I'll see about maybe welding in some washers.  I don't think it will come to that at this time.  Speaking of welding.  Not in the mood to do that right now.  I don't weld with the garage door shut, and this is what the weather looks like right now.



And being sick is hard enough...  been sick about 5-6 days now.

Axle seals came today.  Those have been replaced now as well.  I just need to make my pulley and the transaxle will be ready to go back in.

You talking about the bushings for the steering gearbox itself? I drilled mine out on the GT6k, I seem to recall drilling them out to 15/16" They're about wore out again now lol.

RichieRichOverdrive wrote:

You talking about the bushings for the steering gearbox itself? I drilled mine out on the GT6k, I seem to recall drilling them out to 15/16" They're about wore out again now lol.  

Yeah, I am replacing the plastic ones.  I found some 7/8 OD ones.  The hole is just shy of it, so drilling it to 7/8 should still give me some lip to add to the structural integrity.


I do have to say, this is the slowest build so far I've done.  LOL. Once all the frame/steering/transaxle is complete it will look to go fast again.  Do it right ONCE is my goal.

FINALLY! . . .

I haven't laid a hand on this thing for a week.  Just been too cold for my getting older bones and back.  I did get my bushings for the steering.  Turned out there wasn't much drilling to be had for the holes for the new bushings to go in.







Also got my transaxle finished putting it together and threw that back in too.



Just need to connect up the hi/lo lever.

I will say that I will be doing some garage cleanup.  It is in a bad state of affair.  Metal shavings everywhere.  Also, tools scattered as well. 

Sheesh...

> Metal shavings everywhere.

Been thinking about getting a Ryobi 18v small vacuum cleaner just for that reason, especially working outside. I was drilling into my Murray at various places and had drill shavings all over the boards and inside under the console (missing cover). The only thing I could do at the time was trying to get most of it with wet paper towels. Way too busy and cold to go fetch a cord and run it out to where I was working.

That is a nice looking beefy frame, I might have to find me one!

How'd the lash on the teeth come out, mighty?

As someone who has a machine shop, I've found the best way to take care of shavings is really just a broom and shovel. Stringy drill chips don't pull through a shop vac well.

RichieRichOverdrive wrote:

How'd the lash on the teeth come out, mighty?

As someone who has a machine shop, I've found the best way to take care of shavings is really just a broom and shovel. Stringy drill chips don't pull through a shop vac well.

The stock brass bushing is a little worn.  Still has some minor play in it.  I've got great engagement right now.  I'm trying to determine if it needs replaced or not.  I guess now is the time to replace that one too.

OK, you talked me into it.  I'm replacing that bushing too.  LOL.