MightyRaze - Red Bandit

@RichieRichOverdrive yeah the trans is wrapped too.

Closer inspection, I see the issue.  I have my engine pulley wrapped too tight.  Not allowing good belt disengagement.

Redid the belt system on Red Bandit. Much better results for my style driving.

RichieRichOverdrive wrote:

Check that they are cast for the dipstick- most are, a rare few aren’t. I think mutts original 18hp wasn’t cast for it for some reason. I had another 18hp with a craftsman labeled shroud that was cast and drilled for the dipstick, but then plugged for some reason. Maybe you’ll get lucky and just have to pull a plug out. Otherwise (granted they’re cast for it) it’s just a matter of drilling a hole in some aluminum. I think on the horizontals there’s a rubber bushing in the hole and the dipstick is tapered and wedges the bushing tight in the hole, probably takes up a lot of imperfection.

Checked my donor block and it is casted for the hole but will need drilled. Easy enough. I'll try to get that block ready for the swapover when I can. Maybe even clean out the ports a little while I have it stripped. Give @Wheelinhorse's video's a go. I won't be near good as his, but I figure a little is better than none! The Kohler I'm hoping will last a while, but I have always planned an Oppy would make it's way into the tractor!

You’re almost guaranteed gains with any sort of port work on these oppys, they’re so bad from factory that just knocking the sharp corners out gives you noticeable gains. I followed Captain315s videos on that myself.

That was my thought.  I was actually playing around with the horizontal about a year ago.  I was thinking originally putting it in TDR, but just as I finished cleaning the valves and cut some reliefs in the head something happened and I dropped my dremel and it came on and bounced into the cylinder chamber and marred it up.



If it was above the compression ring, I would have just sent it.  The big divot is right at the middle ring.


Anyways, I was checking out the donor block from the 16hp and it looks to be a good candidate.  I only seen 2 differences between the two, (other than the existing horizontal has imaculate piston and valves.  LOL)

The dipstick location, obviously.  Can be drilled out.  That should be simple.


...And the vent for the fuel pump.  Existing location should be just fine.

HORIZONTAL:



VERTICAL:


Everything else looked identical.

Here is the donor block and the messed up Horizontal.





Seems like a fun little side project for the bandit.

Did you check the drain holes in the valve spring boxes? I always suspected they were different.

RichieRichOverdrive wrote:

Did you check the drain holes in the valve spring boxes? I always suspected they were different.

They were the same it appears.




I haven't closer inspected under the springs yet in the bad block.

Closer look. Neither engine has oil in or oil out on side 2. The other that has the 2 big holes on the governor side 1 the horizontal has a tiny hole in the bottom.

Where my finger wiped away oil is where the hole in the other is.





Curious the no pathway for oil for the other side (cylinder 2) to me that seems to be an issue from factory. Seems like that side would get hot from friction and stop working properly. Curious if that is the side several of us have misfire issues?  Contemplating an oil passage and return drain for that side.

I was wrong, there is a pathway for oil to return on 2.  I'm guessing the tappet is feeding the oil?

# 2


# 1


So I drilled them out.

V# 1


V# 2


Dear goodness.  If I drill out another vertical to horizontal dipstick hole.  It will be too soon!



Just a hair off, but good enough.


Ports are mildly cleaned out and the pathway is rounded for less distance.  Also casting imperfections cleaned out.




Gasket surfaces are cleaned now as well.  Only thing I want to do now is pressure wash it, then a quick hone of the chambers and then start rebuilding.

Is the side with no feed holes the lower cylinder? Maybe it naturally gets more oil just from being lower in the block. Wouldn’t explain much on the horizontal though.

Yes the lower when vertical.

So the engine is moving along.  After a lot of thinking, I decided I am going to keep the governor.  I have one of those on order.  Cracks me up that an actual B/S one from B/S was the cheapest option.  I also have a 3 screw carb kit of my carb coming.  Might as well.  Got all my old engine parts packed up.  Never know when you may need a piston or two.  LOL

I like having the governed oppy on the 414. I keep the idle pretty high so I can just work the clutch on slower stuff and let the governor do the work. For your style of riding 3600rpm is plenty, I’d say.

RichieRichOverdrive wrote:

I like having the governed oppy on the 414. I keep the idle pretty high so I can just work the clutch on slower stuff and let the governor do the work. For your style of riding 3600rpm is plenty, I’d say.

Honestly, watching the videos of all the NE guys.  Rarely, do I sense anything over 3600.  Most of it is crawling and swinging around trees.  :-)


But yeah, only time i really get over 3k is for speed runs or playing with the dogs.  I don't think the current kohler can even do over 3200.  I know the valves really get to floating up there.

Engine is moving along, taking my time.  Once I get my governor, things will probably speed up.

Here is where I have left off for today.



I hope to get the heads on tomorrow.  I need 4 screws to install the intake manifold.

I did the abnormal and moved the original horizontal valves to the donor vertical.  They looked new and never worn in.  I lapped them into the new engine.  Got great sealing coverage. Pretty quick with my free lapping tool.  :-)






Thanks to @Brianator replacing my valve spring compressor last year when I dropped my old one and messed it up.  I was able to quickly reinstall the valve springs as well.  (quick is usually the intake.  I always fight the keepers on the exhaust no matter the tricks)

Valves were .005 intake and .008 exhaust so that is dead center in spec.

Last I knew, the magneto coil was working so I am going with the original.  I forgot to find my starter and install that before the flywheel.  That's OK, I don't have any issues installing them with the flywheel on.

PTO side cover is on delay for the governor.  Some reason the fastest one could get here is Friday.  I opped for what seemed to be a better carb kit, so that will be here this weekend as well.  Not much to do between now and then.

I'm going to assume not many saw my previous post.  There is a major issue in the 1st pic.

I found another difference in the horizontal/vertical.  The governor arm.  Didn't even pay attention to it until I put on my carb and noticed the linkage side is on the choke.



Oops...

Here is how it should be.



The plate appears to be the same.  Not 100% on that.  I searched high and low for that governor arm and could not find it anywhere.  Found one on Ebay for $10 shipped.  Did that route.  I also realized, all my blower shrouds are for vertical engines.  I never had one for this engine.

This engine is the one furthest to the right.



The other two are in TDR and TGM.

Man! I must have held my tongue just right or it's my lucky day. Snapped a head bolt on the briggs opposed. Went to pull the head bolt out and it still had a thread on it so I had to screw it out. The busted off part backed out with it because it snapped in a wedge shape.

The only difference in the blower shrouds is the hole for the air box. I usually duct tape over them in any case, horizontal or vertical.

Well, a step back today (other than the usps can't save money and ship it right the first time).  I need to use the OLD cast flywheel.  I was 50/50 on using it.  I'm going to have to it appears.  Not all opposed covers are equal.






2 options at this point

A, run the old vertical cover and seal off the airbox vents as @richierichoverdrive mentioned.  I actually run Dirty Rat airbox hole closed.
    a. Plastic fan, maybe better air flow?

B, swap the flywheel.
    a. Maybe more torque?  Haven't weighed the difference.
    b. Inch narrower engine, maybe not get into the clutch petal.
   c. Con?-flywheel looks good, but how old is it?  Then again it would be made with better steel.

On the old flywheel, I do have the screen cup, but I could also run a pizza screen.

More sit and wait while I need 2 crucial parts. Lost in the mail that should have been delivered by now.  I was hoping to run break in Sunday. Someone on youtube really wants me to rebuild the Kohler. It would need machined I think .02 over at this point and parts are getting harder to get for those old engines.

Wow, had no idea there was different height shrouds! And I must have had both heights! That cast flywheel without a booster fan absolutely will not move as much air as a plastic fan. There’s a reason they put booster fans on all of the available crankshaft/flywheel adapters, and plastic fans on all newer engines. Even the new horizontals like what’s on my wheel horse had plastic fans.

RichieRichOverdrive wrote:

Wow, had no idea there was different height shrouds! And I must have had both heights! That cast flywheel without a booster fan absolutely will not move as much air as a plastic fan. There’s a reason they put booster fans on all of the available crankshaft/flywheel adapters, and plastic fans on all newer engines. Even the new horizontals like what’s on my wheel horse had plastic fans.

That was the reason I first went with the plastic one. I do have a booster fan, but I'll see how it goes without since there are no obstructions in front of the fan.

The booster fan is kind of not ideal for the transverse engine setup. The one on budgie liked to eat my shoe with the clutch pushed in. Even the screen on the wheel horse rubs the clutch pedal lightly when the frame is flexed right. The engine had to be just about as far over as it could be to get the belt in line.

Now that I think of it, @Wheelinhorse may have had a short shroud on the oppy on the B1 bomber, he didnt seem to have the engine as close to the clutch pedal as I do with mine. That engine does have a billet flywheel though, and he does have to run an oil cooler to stop from cooking the oil in the summer.