Dynamark 1842 rally build "Hades"

Just getting around to starting on the dynamark. From what I was told it has been setting out in a field the last 2 years unused. Was a freeby other than ththe $20 in gas I gave for a trailer load of tractors. Has a 18hp briggs opposed twin and a peerless 801 transaxle. Engine moves freely and feels to have good compression. First goal is to get the deck removed and see if we can get it started. Looks to be in pretty good condition so hopefully it wont be very difficult. Hopefully by end of day it will be moving under it's own power if all goes well. I do know I want it to be a rally or trailblazer style build.

That is @redzz02's preferred platform. Does that one have the right-side clutch?

MightyRaze wrote:

That is @redzz02's preferred platform.  Does that one have the right-side clutch?

Yessir it does. And yes I've watched alot if his videos with his dynamarks. Dont think I'll be getting that crazy with this one but who knows lol

Always loved the look of these Dynamarks. I knew someone that had one with an opposed twin and a peerless 2300 transaxle.

Taryl Fixes All is doing one of those in this week's video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kZE6nnBVKv4

They do look nice.

So i got it to start with starting fluid but wont run on its own. Swapped the carb fron Zeus to it and still not getting fuel out and zeus ran when i took the engine out. However if i put my hand over the carb opening, it tries to start on its own. Any ideas? Seems simple but im not seasoned with small engines or carburetors

Bad fuel filter, maybe clogged gas cap vent, maybe collapsed fuel line, something plugging the line boogers or tarnish build-up.

Ok so i got it to stay running but now i have to keep it choked at least half choke for it to run smooth. Im assuming its time to rebuild the carb.

The idle circuit is usually the culprit on these carbs. Take the top half of the carb off and crank it over, if you get a stream of fuel coming out of a hole that'll tell you if your fuel pump is good. If it is then everything else is usually just cleaning jets.

That is a nice looking tractor! The fuel pump may be ready for a rebuild or replacement, the diaphragms stiffen up over time but if you can get it apart with destroying the gaskets try soaking them in 2 stroke oil, it can help.

The coils get wonky on them too and cause issues, hard or non starting below freezing temps is supposedly a clue of that

Tonight i got the belt put back on to see if i could get it to move but the belt was just slipping and smoking. Removed the transaxle and the input shaft would not move in gear but spins freely in neutral. So im going to crack it open and see whats the issue. In the mean time, have another transaxle to throw in to get this moving before proceeding to the next step which is completely disassembly to take care of the rust and brace up the chassis.

@MrBrucie22 since you mention that the other engine ran fine with that carb, I wanted to mention that a broken reed valve (crankcase ventilation) can cause running issues. This could also cause a perfectly good pulse pump to fail to operate, leading one to think they've got a plugged fuel line/carb inlet/etc.

I swear I saw a TFA video on that recently...

+1 for the chain hoist. I haven't used one of those in a dozen years. Don't miss it, but the sound it makes really, really sounds like we're getting something done in the shop!

Got the pulleys in for this build. 6 up front and a 4.5 in rear. Been sick so i havnt been able to get out and do much. Ready to get this one back on its wheels. Once this ine is moving on its own power ill be able to make some progress on zeus. 

Excellent choice on the up-front pulley. I will give caution on that rear pulley. It looks like an aluminum pulley. I will caution again; they typically do not stand up well to off-roading. They do wear out quickly. Steel or cast, like your larger pulley, are the better options!

Personally, I would also recommend a little dab of anti-seize on the shaft before install.

MightyRaze wrote:

Excellent choice on the up-front pulley.  I will give caution on that rear pulley.  It looks like an aluminum pulley.  I will caution again; they typically do not stand up well to off-roading.  They do wear out quickly.  Steel or cast, like your larger pulley, are the better options!

Personally, I would also recommend a little dab of anti-seize on the shaft before install.

Yea heard about these pulleys. Really it's just to get this one going. The biggest 5/8 pulley TSC had and it seems anything under 6 inch is 1" bore for the cast iron pulleys. I have thought about going up to a 7 on engine and going up to a 5 on trans. But I'll see how this works. My very first pulley swap ever lol. Also how do I go about measuring for a belt once the new pulleys are installed? 

Stock engine pulley is currently seized on the crankshaft so dealing with that now oh and garden season is coming soon so my attention and funds are being directed to that. So wont be alot of progress on my builds and this one will be used to do garden work until the hydro cub is Going. But next ththing in this build after it gets moving will be fabbing up a foot throttle. Been recording most of everything so details for this build will be in video. Once its moving illI'll also make the entry video and enter this build in the build off as well.

I use a couple of methods together to try and zero in on belt size then buy the size I think, one smaller and one bigger then return the 2 I don't need.

First I use rope that's similar size of the belt I'll be using,  route it with the clutch depressed and pull the long end of the rope into the end fairly snug but not too tight, need a touch of slack. I mark the rope them measure it, this number will be for the outside of the belt measurement (ie 4L420 would be a 1/2" wide 42" long belt comparable to a A40 which is an inside measurement)

Then I measure from the center of the output to the center of the input, multiply by 2 and add half of the circumference of each pulley. Then I compare the 2 numbers and usually find I want a belt right inbewteen the 2 or just a touch longer if they are basically the same.

There are many ways, that's just how I do it.

I can calculate it using the pulley size and the distance between the output/input, little spreadsheet that I cooked up, doesn't quite account for the angles of the belt but it should be about 100 times more accurate then just adding the diameter. If you wanted it to be crazy accurate you could use some complex trigonometry, I will try to figure that out tommorow and hopefully this should do for now:

Google sheets:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1g0Y2bbzjqb9KegUXWKV4wkNcu5RXChWMBu-NW6oih3A/edit?usp=sharing

TechnoChicken wrote:

Brianator wrote:

I use a couple of methods together to try and zero in on belt size then buy the size I think, one smaller and one bigger then return the 2 I don't need.

First I use rope that's similar size of the belt I'll be using,  route it with the clutch depressed and pull the long end of the rope into the end fairly snug but not too tight, need a touch of slack. I mark the rope then measure it, this number will be for the outside of the belt measurement (ie 4L420 would be a 1/2" wide 42" long belt comparable to a A40 which is and inside measurement)

Then I measure from the center of the output to the center of the input, multiply by 2 and add half of the circumference of each pulley. Then I compare the 2 numbers and usually find I want a belt right inbewteen the 2 or just a touch longer if they are basically the same.

There are many ways, that's just how I do it.

I can calculate it using the pulley size and the distance between the output/input, little spreadsheet that I cooked up, doesn't quite account for the angles of the belt but it should be about 100 times more accurate then just adding the diameter. If you wanted it to be crazy accurate you could use some complex trigonometry, I will try to figure that out tommorow and hopefully this should do for now:

Google sheets:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1g0Y2bbzjqb9KegUXWKV4wkNcu5RXChWMBu-NW6oih3A/edit?usp=sharing

This is useful. Thanks man! Going to try this out today before I go pick up a few belts. Hopefully this weekend, weather permitting, I'll be able to get this build out the shop so I can work on the old tiller. I'm anxious to start working on Zeus again. I've just been trying to learn/teach myself how to weld befor I start welding on the mowers. Father in law gave me a century fluxcore welder (110v) when he gave me my cubs and told me I'd need to learn for this hobby but im pretty confident in my work now to start welding on the mowers. Learning alot of different skills in this hobby and can get overwhelming at times trying to retain all this new information but I'm taking it one part at a time so forgive me for the slow progress on the builds plus I dont do well with the cold weather even with a heated shop lol

Made some good progress this afternoon and came across an odd issue. So i swapped the transaxle from zeus into hades and oddly one of the axles is longer than the other. Just to mount the tires i had to use extra spacers and now one side pokes out more than the other lol. Im sure i can adjust the spacers but i thought it was kinda odd. Both transaxles are peerless 801s. Even measured to make sure i wasnt tripping but one axle shaft is about an inch longer than the other aand measured the one that came out of hades and both sides are the same length on that one.

Ended up hahaving to drill some holes and use my crankshaft pulley puller to get the engine pulley off but the new pulleys are installed and just aan eyeball estimate, it seems the stock belt is only a few inches too long. Going to just pick up a few belts thats shorter and take it from there.

That axle thing is interesting, the trans must me mounted offset in Zeus either by the frame or the trans case itself and will probably make installing another trans in it just as interesting! Lol.

Brianator wrote:

That axle thing is interesting, the trans must me mounted offset in Zeus either by the frame or the trans case itself and will probably make installing another trans in it just as interesting! Lol.

Yea man I looked at the frame on Zeus and the transaxle mounts on the frame are offset. I just find it odd

Sure enough, I was looking at some ford yt16s pictures and it does appear to be a larger gap between the lower frame and the right tire than frame to left tire.  Honestly, not that uncommon.

Go racing with a lot of left turns.

MightyRaze wrote:

Sure enough, I was looking at some ford yt16s pictures and it does appear to be a larger gap between the lower frame and the right tire than frame to left tire.  Honestly, not that uncommon.

Go racing with a lot of left turns.  

Well once I repair the transaxle from hades I'll swap them back. Just want something to play with while working on zeus

Im going to attempt to to figure out the issue with the  factory transaxle soon (peerless 801) and was just wondering what i should be looking for when i open it up? The issue is the trans seems to catch and get lockup up when pushing it in gear. If i rock it alittle it feel like something releases inside and will roll about a single revolution before catching again. Ive never been inside a mower transaxle before but watching a few videos it doesn't look too difficult. Just need alittle guidance on any common issues that could cause this. The bolt in the center of the trans is rounded so ill be picking up an extractor kit when we pick up belts today. Hopefully i can finish ep1 of the Hades video today too and start ep2 on the Zeus build!

I would guess the shift key(s) is/are worn, maybe even the collar as seen here.

You can find the 801 starting at page 28 in the Tecumseh Peerless manual.

Hope this helps