Dirty Rat - Sears

I have taken a step back while seeing where this thing will belt align best.



I'll have to move the trans to the left about an inch.  That shouldn't be an issue.  When I put new hubs on the axle, I can adjust accordingly.

Thinking maybe use some L brackets from the axle mount to about where the last hole is on the frame.



In that shot above the trans it is leaning back.  That will not be the case.  The shaft mounts will be level to the bottom of the frame.  That should allow the input pulley shaft to be completely clear of the frame so no cutting will be needed on this side.


This side will require FAR less trimming for the brake than I had first imagined.  That makes me happy.  I don't think I will need to trim up to the dirt line.



I'm really diggin the exposed transaxle look.  I may keep it exposed.  Adds to the rat look.  Did I mention this thing weighs a TON!  At least twice as much as a 633a.


I know I was going to work on the deck, but my bearings got waylaid in shipping.

Finally had a nice day today 65°F, so I spent a couple hours after work in the garage today before we get 30's and freezing drizzle and flurries starting tomorrow.  Yee haw.

Made some ears for the axle mounts for the tractor.  They seem like they will work well.


Yeah, I didn't realize my drill bit traveled as much as it did for the left hole.  It's still good.

As you see I have the brake hanger trimmed and loosely attached.  Did this to see how much I may need to trim the frame for the brake.  As you can see I decided to move the trans ALL THE WAY back.  I like the look.



Turned out that it lifted the bottom of the ear an inch.  I'm going to trim about 1 1/8th for the brake.



I left a lip on the inside of the brake mount.  I figured I can use it to make a front mount for the transaxle.  I think that will work great!



I have some metal cut up for the pulley side as well.  I'm not going to actually "attach" the 2300 until I get my pulley for the transaxle.  I will align it for the belt then I will proceed with the mounting.  Figured that would be smarter.  Right now, I have a 4" pulley on but the wrong bore.  I'm looking at a pulley much like @crazy_carl's for the transaxle. 

I'm beginning to like where this is going.

This pleases me!  I like where this build is going.

Got my pulley.  Got it aligned, so now to start attaching things up!  Also, I got the notch cut out for the brake this evening.  Really cold so that is all I got done!

Brake pads on this 2300 are not in the greatest shape. They are worn pretty good. I'll either need to make some new or find some. Making new may be the direction. Also, I realized, servicing the brake appears to be easier on the suburban than the murray. Go figure.

Tomorrow is my day off, but I'm going to be busy with a vet visit.  Two biggest dogs for their yearly shots.  Anyways, I was up late and with a clear head and some gumption.  Well, the 2300 is now hanging from the frame and not setting on stands and jack.  I currently have 3 points of trans contact.  I am still going to work on a
4th.  I have the two in the rear and one on the driver's side just in front of the brake.  That one worked out 100% as planned.  I ended up having to shim the rear with 2 washers due to contact with a bolt on the trans driver's side.  Anyways, here are the pix!

almost looks like that 2300 belongs in there! looking like some good progress!

Thanks  @MN mudder! 

I got my 4th point of contact.  She's in there solid!  Decided to go ahead and drain the sludge in it before I spilled any more on the garage floor.



4 points of mounting.



I'm going to work a couple more things like a slick belt guide for the trans, then I will call this side done and start working on the front lowering.  I'll need to find some hubs and tires for the rear so I can roll it around.  

I was going to use the trans out of Kal but decided to leave Kal be and use my spare 2300.  The one that I robbed the hubs off for Li'l Red.  You know the one the clip broke off inside the dif? (That is the one I have been using so far)



Well, I am going to give it some love later this spring.



Can't imagine what I have in store... 

Doc Locker 820 - YouTube
courtesy of @Doc Sprocket 

I know... that is an 820 video, but the 2300 has the same bull gear.  At least my other one was identical.  

Little bit of axle planning.  I put on Red's older wheels and tires.  I kind of dig it..  I may have to consider it.

Oooo... little photoshop action.  I'll leave this there for thoughts...

Hey! I have a matching set of wheels and tires on my tractor LOL

Nice...

Something that looks complicated..



That really isn't.



I may end up redoing it.  I found the belt will hit right on the top side at the little bend up. If I do, it will pretty much be the same, but higher on the mount.

I'll have to chock up the day to learning.

It’s a process making a belt guide. I had to rework my rear one a handful of times.

Crazy_Carl wrote:

It’s a process making a belt guide. I had to rework my rear one a handful of times.

Yeah, it is.  I measured, took it off and measured again.  I was literally an 8th of an inch off.  I could have left it, but I wouldn't have been happy knowing it.  I was able to cut out about 3/16ths and welded it back together.  Now I have good belt gap.  Now to figure out the Brake.  I have some ideas, but I need to think them through for a bit.



Also took time to smooth and round the edges.  Just needed some minor tweaks afterwards.

Thats a hot looking belt guide.

Heres the place I got my gaskets and stuff from when @redzz02 locked mine for me. They might have pads too.

Bolens Parts & Supplies

Doug wrote:

Thats a hot looking belt guide.

Heres the place I got my gaskets and stuff from when @redzz02 locked mine for me. They might have pads too.

Bolens Parts & Supplies

Thanks!  It was a most of the day on something simple.  Like @Crazy_carl said, 

Crazy_Carl wrote:

It’s a process making a belt guide.

I wanted to get it just right.

Thanks for the link.  I actually have it saved for when I lock mine.  I need that kit and the axle when I lock it.  I need to widen the axle 4" for my wheels I have.  Stock axle is too short.

Nice fab work getting that 2300 in there, Looks great.

Another minor step closer!  Liking my progress.

I'm about 85% complete with the brake setup!  So far it has been easier than expected.  I thought I would have to add another pivoting rod, but that is not the case.  

The Murray brake rod is already the right size!!!  I may need a small bend 6" from the end for better allignment.  (That's part of the 15% remaining)  I moved the "return to neutral" hardware on the clutch brake rod to the other side of the tractor.  It used to be between the clutch and frame wall.



Using the Sears parking brake rod as a template, I created a new one that latched into the murray brake slider hardware.



Hand/parking brake applied:


Disk is unmovable.

Pushing in the brake/clutch petal.  I did notice quite a bit of clutch pully travel before brake started applying.



Brake disk was unmovable. 

To make it better I need to resolve one minor issue.  When the brake petal is applied, the brake rod rubs the bottom of the frame.  I could notch the frame for better clearance.  Maybe an inch at most up and about 2-3 inches across.  I'm still looking into my options here.

Once I get my brake done, I will need to cut my square out for the shifter in the top of the frame.  I have already found this location using a cardboard template of the shifter and seeing where it hits the frame.  I'll cut that out and throw the shifter back on.

After that, I guess it will be time to head to the front for mods.  I know I originally mentioned moving the front axle forward.  I ended up moving the rear back, so I am looking into need/want of moving the front forward.

Nice progress, good job!

The brakes I'll call 100%.   I took a break from work after posting my last message.  I went out to the garage and sat there under the tractor and the solution just literally jumped out at me and it was the simplest solution. 

Bend the rod a few degrees at 2 o'clock.

BAM!



Now to make my second measurment for the shifter do I can cut the hole out.


Note to self:
3.5" wide x 2" tall.

Sometimes I just sit and think about a project, sometimes it does come to me...

I have it back on 4 wheels.  I'll need to adjust that brake bend just a little more.  Nothing big.  I think the rod turned on the adjuster.  Maybe a nut on it since I have a bend now.  I also thought of a i-bolt to run the hand/parking brake rod through.  That would help hold it close to the frame and not flop over like it did.

I did cut out the hole for the shifter.  I was completely backwards unfortunately on the lopsided shift pattern for the 2300.  I assumed the 1st gear kickout was going to be more from center than R/4.  I was wrong.  Appears the 2300 is left side shift heavy.  Not balanced.  Due to this I was off a half an inch to the right (1st) so R and 4th ran into the side of the hole.  Had to make it larger.  I'll have to weld in some metal to fix it later.



On a side note, I could not get it in 4th gear.  I knew it worked at one time... So, either the broken pin is up there, or it rusted a little with the water that was in it.  I saved Kal's trans and it was in BAD shape.

Filling in some holes!

No better time than an hour 'till midnight

Isn’t metal fun? Just like it never happened.

mesure once cut twice! LOL