-= Li'l Red =-

@AllisKidD21, that was my plan to use an old ring since I got new ones.  My dad whipped that out and said, here you go.  You can keep it.  Worked like a charm and was super easy.

Hopefully the next update is ripping some dirt.

MightyRaze wrote:

I worked over the engine this afternoon.  I found my compression and leak test kits.  I hate to go on, but left side engine I was getting 45psi with leaks.  Right side I got 32psi with major leak.

I knew I should have did a valve job.  I hate pulling valve springs.  I have a briggs tool now, so this should be easier.  I guess I have a new project.  Should I screw up, I do have a couple engines to pull new valves.

Well, compression is 53 both cylinders. Not as much as I hoped, but that could be the compression release. Leak down appeared fine. Too impatient to wait too long.

Sounds good! Cant beat the sound of an opposed twin! Makes me want to get out the old onan and fire it up.

Here it is idling. Not a special video, just one to hear it purr.

Li'l Red sounds great! But that was the best "Alright!" I've ever heard! I swear that was better than Mathew MaConaughey. Like you need to take that sound clip and make a button so that anytime your feeling cool just go over press the "Alright! " button.

LOL, I go around doing the alright alright alright all the time.  Makes my wife laugh... 

Hmm... not that big an issue, but we will see how things go. Changed the oil after running it about an hour straight.  Oil looked good, no metal in it.  Yesterday I noticed an oil drip under Red.  Appears to be some oil weeping out the bolt holes in the front of the sump.  Not happy about that.  Tomorrow, I may see about dropping the engine pulley to be sure the oil seal isn't part of the issue.  I have about 2-3 of those on hand if needed.  If all of it is coming from the sump bolts, ugh...  I'll just run with it and send it at Haspin.

I forgot, I did upgrade my seat spring and added more foam to my seat on RED for haspin later this year.

 I see forumotion snuck in a new emoji button.  Anyways...

I dropped the pulley and the oil seal is dry, no oil from there.  I cleaned it up and placed a paper towel around the sum.  Found that the oil is coming from the front 2 bolts in the front of the sump.  Also noticed the gasket was squeezed out around the front.  Guess I need to pull it back out and replace the sump gasket again.  Dang cheapo chinagasket....

You can get gasket material online relatively cheap too. I tried some and it can be kind of a pain if you don’t have a really sharp pair of snips but it holds up ok. Used some as a carb gasket and it tore 3 months later when I took it off again but hey pretty sure the factory would have done the same too. Anyway, thought it might work better for what you’re doing because you can get a higher grade compound than factory and it’s cheaper. Hope that helps ya.

or just use a non-corrugated box, like a cereal box, i've used them for everything from carbs to automotive water pumps and never had one fail yet

Rustbucket Garage wrote:

You can get gasket material online relatively cheap too. I tried some and it can be kind of a pain if you don’t have a really sharp pair of snips but it holds up ok. Used some as a carb gasket and it tore 3 months later when I took it off again but hey pretty sure the factory would have done the same too. Anyway, thought it might work better for what you’re doing because you can get a higher grade compound than factory and it’s cheaper. Hope that helps ya.  

I make alot of gaskets this way, but I'm not sure I'd make a sump gasket just because normally they are a specific thickness to get the right crankshaft end play. But I have used a paper plate as a gasket before and that also worked but not sure I'd do it again.

Tiny update!

Got my "BRIGGS" gasket today for the sump.

This is how a flat gasket should be shipped.  No bends to be had here!



Check the difference in the "Briggs" gasket and the china gasket.



Briggs gasket fitment!



China gasket fitment.



None of the holes quite fit right.  Probably why it leaked.  Briggs one fits well.  I got the sump back on and stripped out 2 of the bolts.  I think I can use a metric bolt in those holes to catch threads and be ok.

I hope to have it back together tomorrow or this week.

Back together.  Metric M8-1.25 bolt did the trick! Ran it around the block to warm it up and see if it leaks.

SO in the process of getting Red Haspin ready, I realized.  Red is pissin oil out again.  So post Haspin I will look into engine options.  Try to fix this one a 3rd time or move on to the V-Twin.

where is the oil leak coming from?

Honestly I didn't even look.  I went out about 5 minutes ago and found the leak.  Not that big an issue.  It's the drain cap weeping.  I'll fix that next oil change.   

Red was definitely ready for Haspin. It got pretty beat up. Daughter rolled it. She’s fine. Idler went out causing it to start lunge when clutching. That sent her out of control while turning. Daughter was a beast on a couple hills.

Full evaluation when we get home but initial report says…

Twisted hood
Bent front frame for steering. Hope not c channel.
Blown axle seals on transaxle
Need idler.
New steering shaft end.

Just a start.

MightyRaze wrote:

Red was definitely ready for Haspin. It got pretty beat up. Daughter rolled it. She’s fine. Idler went out causing it to start lunge when clutching. That sent her out of control while turning. Daughter was a beast on a couple hills.

Full evaluation when we get home but initial report says…

Twisted hood
Bent front frame for steering. Hope not c channel.
Blown axle seals on transaxle
Need idler.
New steering shaft end.

Just a start.

OK, I have gone over L'il Red and this is what I have figured out.



Tractor frame is fine.  Just the extension is bent.  I'll need to rebuild the extension.  Maybe an opportunity for a version 4.0?

Engine is half shot, but I knew that.  Needs rebuilt.

Hood and grill are bent.  Not sure I can fix that or not.  Not sure if I want to put the 85 grill back on.

It has a SHOT idler to keep belt off gear shifter.  Also will need a new hose for vent.  It got chewed.  Need better routing.  Also, go back to .5 inch belt.  The 5/8 slips too much and stretched more it seemed.

Need to evaluate the stripped stearing splines.

Tires....

Fronts were fine!  Rears... while got GREAT traction, did contribute to the tractor being "tippy" which aided in the rollover as well as the jumped belt.  Maybe move them out another inch.



The 820 will need some end seal work.

That is my post Haspin evaluation.  I'll probably start working on fixing it later this year.

I vote the 85 hood!

Scored me an old .25" thick piece of angle 1.5"x2" angle iron.... That stuff isn't going to bend!  I also still have an unused piece of 2x2" angle and some random pieces lying around.  I'm 20% considering changing the front suspension. That's just an idea I'm toying around.

I've decided that I will be doing some changes in hopes to make it more stable.  I need to drive it back to the garage so I can start some tear down.  I also think I will be going with a shorter wider tire on the rear.  I think the 24's make it too tall and tippy in the rear.  I will be looking into lowering the front end as well.  To do so may require a new setup.  Also, that may put some strain on the steering universal.  I may need to look into one more bend in the link.

great news..... I got it bent back right.  Short video out maybe tomorrow.  No need for all the teardown etc.

I think I have the belt idler fixed.  New belt guide installed.  Few more things to resolve.  It's running super rich I figured out.  I do have some adjustment to the carb.  I'll turn down the idle jet a bit.