-= Li'l Red =-

darkside0914 wrote:

angling the shocks will soften the ride, i'm not sure how to put it exactly, but with them at an angle they will feel softer, and will give more articulation as well, one of the strange facts i've learned building rc rock crawlers which have coil over oil filled shocks similar to what you have on red, and where do i find the model number, is it on the flywheel cover like the singles?

Yes either the cover like a single or on the side tins.

What kind of exhaust do you plan to add? (also thank you for linking me to Sasquatch II- amazing job with that build!)

ok on the side tin it says model 400707

darkside0914 wrote:

ok on the side tin it says model 400707

Excellent, shoot me the type #s too and I can shoot you a link to your exact manual and parts list. 

Looking for 400707-xxxx-xx

the entire number sequence is 400707 0111 02 85031512 it came off a square body craftsman like this one on the forum https://www.atltf.com/t6543-my-1988-craftsman

darkside0914 wrote:

the entire number sequence is 400707   0111 02 85031512  it came off a square body craftsman like this one on the forum https://www.atltf.com/t6543-my-1988-craftsman

https://www.briggsandstratton.com/na/en_us/support/results.multiStepManualSearch.html?searchrequested=400707-0111-02

Looks like your set is 394501. Which is also 495868 like mine.

@MightyRaze thanks for the help, i've only had 1 of the opposed twins and then got rid of it, we thought this one was junk until i decided to take a closer look inside, it had some loose head bolts that i think was what made it smoke and it looks like it was only firing on one cylinder, the valves open and close normally and the pistons have no slop at all, the cylinders look good, no scratches and a very tiny ring ridge at the very top, so i think replacing the coil, plugs, seals, and either rebuilding or replacing the carb should get it running nicely

Front end is missing. 

if you lived closer i'd offer you some of this rectangular steel i have, it's 1x3 i think and looks to be 1/8in thick, it was the main support legs from some large shelves being thrown out at our local dollar store

Just my 2c but if you have the front axle out would it be a good time to upgrade it? It looks like you have already braced your spindles judging by the picture but I think @Murraymountain had his bend at one point. I won’t tell you what to do though and I am certain you will have a very capable machine either way!

Actually the Widebody axles are about as good as it gets without going cast iron. It's everything surrounding it that's the problem. Mighty deleted all that and with the suspension, it would be very unlikely to bend anything.

The main reason mine died (the axle was fine though) is because I cut off a lip (on the motor mount plate) that I didn't think was necessary. That was a big mistake since I have no suspension. Matter of fact, the new one is hurting a little. Of course, I definitely don't jump mine and run it through ruts and rocks at high speed on a weekly basis so I don't know why it's breaking .

Anyway, Mighty will be fine with his axle. I kinda wanna see how it holds to some hardcore abuse because there's several people who love to hate on the Widebody (not the regular Murray axle) stamped steel axle and praise they're stamped craftsman axles that snap in half on grass cutters.

Good to know, thank you! I forgot all about his suspension work (which is fantastic). Sorry for the bad advice, I guess I went blank there. 

Before I start... I hate Forumotion added the "Current Time" button to the reply toolbar. Hate that it makes the bar wrap to a second line...

BaCk On ToPiC. . .

darkside0914 wrote:

if you lived closer i'd offer you some of this rectangular steel i have, it's 1x3 i think and looks to be 1/8in thick, it was the main support legs from some large shelves being thrown out at our local dollar store

Man, that sounds perfect. I was thinking about 1x3 by 8'.

Rustbucket Garage wrote:

Just my 2c but if you have the front axle out would it be a good time to upgrade it? It looks like you have already braced your spindles judging by the picture but I think @Murraymountain had his bend at one point. I won’t tell you what to do though and I am certain you will have a very capable machine either way!

Axle isn't too bad. I did upgrade the nylon bushings to brass. I also added a few more welds to the seam. If I upgraded again, I would either go with a craftsman axle like Kal, or build my own.

Murraymountain wrote:

Actually the Widebody axles are about as good as it gets without going cast iron. It's everything surrounding it that's the problem. Mighty deleted all that and with the suspension, it would be very unlikely to bend anything.

Yep! Although, I would almost think a cast iron would be a downgrade possibly. They tend to snap when you get them too bound up. I would rather go for the bend. To me, the best actual upgrade that wasn't homebuilt would be to go to a Sears Suburban front axle. Talk about heft!

MightyRaze wrote:

Murraymountain wrote:

Actually the Widebody axles are about as good as it gets without going cast iron. It's everything surrounding it that's the problem. Mighty deleted all that and with the suspension, it would be very unlikely to bend anything.

Yep!  Although, I would almost think a cast iron would be a downgrade possibly.  They tend to snap when you get them too bound up.  I would rather go for the bend.  To me, the best actual upgrade that wasn't homebuilt would be to go to a Sears Suburban front axle.  Talk about heft!

Yeah that's why I love my Widebody axles. You can't beat the strength to weight ratio.

I definitely wouldn't do cast iron on a build with suspension. I don't even know if that's possible. Seems like if you drilled a hole or did any welding it would create a weak/stressed spot.

And if jumping/rocky trails are in the future... Well, cast iron would definitely not be good.

Latest video update.

Nice job on the wheel studs! I did the same thing to Brutus and I ran into the same problem with finding bolts that didnt have a shank on them. I just ended up buying some grade 8 bolts the right length and then I used a 7/16 20 die and threaded them the rest of the way down......took forever, and it was pretty tight since the shank is a little bit bigger in diameter than the threads but ended up having to do 2 sets cause I guessed wrong on the length, cause I didnt have my wheel spacers yet. (Story of my life. lol) But the second ones I did worked perfectly!

Heres the first ones I made. Figured I'd use them on something else one day.

Thanks! What I had worked out really well!

So this happened today.

Latest video update...

Engine is back together and reinstalled!!!

Oh... and I have my shocks figured out I think!  I hope to also be able to open the hood when I am complete with the new front end.  At least open it most of the way.

Been a busy past several days.  Time to take a break step back and evaluate.

This similar to what you were thinking on the youtube comment @darkside0914?  This is what I had pictured in my head.



Hood is mountable now!  YAY!



Now to the shocks later this week.

@MightyRaze more or less, i was thinking cut it longer and remove one part of the angle, then bending it so it could be bolted to the frame itself, but if you weld that there and bolt it to the engine plate it should give a little more strength and rigidity to the front

Easiest tire install ever!

Well guys. Looks like I will have to stick with the shock tower. New tires raise the front quite a bit. 

I'm still toying with the inner shock mounts.  I mocked up an upper brace with 2 possible locations.  One is pretty nose up.  The other would requires a minor tweak to a skid plate I added to protect the rack steering.

My current full up location.


Full down location.


I'm OK with a little nose up.  Once I get the winch and bumper on, it won't look so up there.  The narrow portion of the grill makes it look more up there.