Well fellers I did it again! Found this beast on the local buy and sell (Kijiji) and bought it for $125 delivered! It's a 1986 Roper LT110CR which is now the newest tractor I own! Lol.
The only things it's missing are the key and the left side panel, the clutch pedal is already on the proper side too so that's a bonus!
It has a 5 speed with reverse and looks to be a Peerless. The funny thing is all the info I found said this model is a 4 speed with a 38" deck, this is a 5 speed and looks to be 42" but I'll have to measure it to be sure. There's also lots of room on the dash for extra switches/gauges/controls ect...
...and I love the way the hood opens! There will be no clearance issues when I install a winch and because of the tractors design I'll be able to easily make a winch mount out of angle iron!
Why would I need ANOTHER tractor you ask?! I don't but as some of you may remember my original intentions for The WarHorse was to get it prepped and ready to take up to my parents cabin to have fun with, cut the trails and blaze new ones BUT I got in way too deep and too attached to it to only ride it a couple times a year so this old beast will take it's place! For those of you that aren't in the know about The Warhorse please feel to click the link I just provided and have a look for yourself!
Speaking of it...lookie at the surprise I have for it!
It will be a true bolt in affair to put it in that old girl and I can take my time going back through it's original engine to find out what's going wrong.
The guy I got it from said it ran fine last time he drove it a couple years ago which was when he parked it because his friend hit something really hard and damaged the cutting deck (never drink and mow folks!) but it's still really solid and just needs to have the metal bent back into shape.
This tractor will end up getting either the 14hp Kawasaki FC420C I got for free or the 16hp Kohler Command (CV16S) I got for $25, both of which are full pressure lubed. Based on the tractors frame design it's going to be really easy to install either one!
Well there it is, ANOTHER project is exactly what I needed! This one ought to be HAS to be a quick, easy one I can ship up north before I get attached to it too! Lol.
That's all for now guys, let me know what you think!
Last edited by Brianator on June 21st 2022, 11:27 pm; edited 6 times in total
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That’s awesome man! I think that model roper is honestly one of the top 5 best looking mowers of all time! Always wanted one, and I ended up with the Wizard, but hey that’s close enough! Can’t wait to see where you go with it! Whatever you do, I know for a fact it’ll be quality built!
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Thanks @Murraymountain I appreciate the kind words! If we weren't thousands of miles away I'd probably sell it to ya (minus the engine)! I wasn't so keen on the looks but it's quickly growing on me, it's actually pretty sleek especially the hood! It's going to be hard to hold back on it but I have to try and keep this one fairly simple and keep to the (offroading) basics. Tires, lights, horn, winch, toolbox, maybe a locked rear and ya I'll figure out other junk too! Lol. I'd also like to find the missing left side panel for it.
I tinkered with it a little tonight.
I found a key that came from an old ignition switch...
...tested the headlights and they work. Looks like with some decent LED bulbs (already ordered) they will actually work pretty well! (They look brighter in the picture than they actually are)
Then on to the engine...
I tested the starter - Check! I tested for spark - Check! Topped up the oil - Check! Crank engine to get the oil moving - Check! Splash of fuel in the carb - Check! Turn the key and....
BOOM!!
Just kidding it fired right up! Lol.
I guess it would be smart to get tubes in the front tires so I can drive it around and test the rear transaxle, steering and brakes plus get a general idea of overall engine health. If the engine passes it's tests then it will be transplanted into The WarHorse and if the tractor itself passes it's tests then it will be time to install a new motor in it!
The oil has gone back down to the level it was before I topped it up ffs! I think it's coming from where the block meets the oil sump (hopefully) which isn't horrible news because I have gaskets left over. I'll get into that tomorrow and report back!
Holy cow I didn't even notice the fuel line, looks pretty original eh!? Lol. Looks pretty dry around the governor shaft (right side), the wettest part is just below the fuel filler and it's pretty dry underneath so I don't think it's the crankshaft seal. I really didn't have a very good look to be honest, I noticed the oil on the trailer and had a quick look.
Well a little update, the gasket between the block and oil pan is definitely where the leak is coming from so that's good news because it's an easy fix!
I also got engine running without having to rebuild the carb for once! Lol.
Annnd... I installed the new bulbs, what a difference!
Annnd... this is my 1000th post so guess I'll be a "veteran member" now look out boys!
I removed the mower deck today and did some repairs to the front of it, it was pushed back a good 4 inches although it might be a little hard to tell in the photos.
I used my trusty HiLift jack to get it somewhat straitened out then finished it off with the BFH (sledgehammer).
Then I started welding and shaping the tears (from the blades)...
...and sprayed it with etching primer then silver lacquer to protect it.
The blades themselves are way beyond saving, I'm hoping the blades on my other 38" deck are good enough to use and that they will fit. If not I'll either get a cheap pair of blades or maybe do the trimmer string mod but with 1/16" aircraft cable.
I'll service the spindles (which seem good) and get a new belt at some point, I'm also pretty certain I'll be locking the rear diff because after some testing on the "obstacle course" around my yard it's obvious there's much to be desired!
Well, if I'm going to offroad this thing I'm going to need decent tires to do it (especially where this tractor is headed) and I need extra ground clearance for mowing so I ordered some off eBay. These tires are 4" taller than what's on it which means I'll gain 2" in the front and 2" in the rear, with the lift and a little modification to the deck lift mechanism I'm pretty confident I'll be able to clear the rocks for the first pass!
The fronts (19x7-8 ~ 6 ply)...
...and the rears (22x10-8 ~ 6 ply).
One thing I've learned about shopping on eBay is to get the good deals while you can because they don't tend to last long! These cost me $424 CAD which equals $337 USD so overall they're a really good deal in my books! I shouldn't have a hard time selling the original rears for a few bucks unless I decide to mount them on spare rims and use them on my yard trailer instead of the wheelbarrow style that's on it now!
I've also decided on a name I like that suits it and it's purpose, the Roper "Trailblazer"! Kind of has a nice ring to it eh!
So unfortunately The Warhorse isn't going to get as much attention as it WAS for a bit, I need to get this ready to ship up north but luckily I'll be able to rip it around the trails here first to test it and work out the kinks. I still have a ways to go with The Mud Duck also but the Build Off isn't over for months so I have plenty of time to pick away at it while I have fun with it!
I can't believe I was daft enough to get ANOTHER project what was I thinking!? Guess my signature is pretty accurate eh?! Y'all don't even know the other projects on the go...yet! Lol
As im sure you've noticed by now I like to keep track of what my builds cost so this post is dedicated to how much I've got in it, keep in mind several of these items I already had "in stock" but am still adding their worth even though they weren't bought specifically for this build, also if I only used 1 or 2 of several items the price is adjusted to show only what I used. Prices are in Canadian funds, tax included and rounded to the nearest half dollar.
Free Items - 8" Front wheels from? (A friend gave them to me) - Horn button (bought one received two) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B08LPK2DKM - Various wiring - Wiring split loom - Throttle cable
You should try getting medium thickness chain and making a "chain mulcher" just basically chains whipping around instead of blades. Those are what they use to mow the ditches around here and they are basically invincible, they'll pick up rocks and chuck them out of the way.
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I've gotten a good start on the electrical on this rig over the last couple of days.
I installed a master power disconnect switch and some toggle switches for the headlights, running lights and front/rear auxiliary lights (I had to order more I was one short as you can see)...
...a illuminated horn button (red) and a ON/OFF/ON (momentary contact) switch for the winch (yet to be acquired)...
...a fuse box (just because why not)...
...and the horn (safety first!) I'll probably also add a tethered kill switch and tie it into the horn (via a 5 pin relay) so the horn goes off if the tether is pulled.
Last night when I was using the worklight to see under the dash I noticed this and thought awesome! I'm going to add a led strip light, probably a red one for accent and to see the controls at night.
I got alot of the actual wiring done too, everything is wired into the fuse box and just needs to be hooked up to each thing once they're installed!
The new tires should be in this week and I scored some 8" rims for the front but they're in WAY better shape than what's on The Mud Duck so the new(er) ones are in the process of being painted and the old ones will go on this rig, it actually helps me stay on budget too as they were free.
Some exciting stuff happening with this rig the last couple days!
Out with the old...
...and in with the new(ish)!
That is a Kohler Command CV16S that I bought for $25 because it apparently doesn't run, it has a new carburetor, new air filter, new oil and new oil filter. After tinkering with it for a bit a few weeks ago I got spark, yesterday I splashed some gas in the carb and it fired right up so that was good enough for me to shoehorn this bad boy in the tractor! I REALLY wanted to run it in this orientation with the spark plug and valve cover facing forward (for looks, to keep everything tucked in and to put more weight forward) but it's just not going to happen! I would've had to relocate the fuel tank outside of the body then I'll never get a left side panel on so here's what went down:
I stretched out the original mounting holes (same bolt pattern) with a rotary file on my Dremel to get the motor right up against the fuel tank because the fan shroud and air filter were pushing the right side panel way out.
The spark plug wire was still pushing into the side panel so out comes the rotary file again to create a notch in the engine tin and I cut a grommet to fit so there's no chaffing.
With all that done there's just barely any contact with the side panel so I think it's safe to say it should be good! The valve cover sticks out a little bit but I think it'll be fine.
It was a bit of a fight to get the pulleys/clutch/belt all set back up, I do NOT look forward to changing the belt on this thing so when I get a new one it will be a high quality one that's for sure! Lol. The engine is about 1/2" off center but I was able to tweak the belt guards to fit with minimal effort!
Then I hooked up the fuel system, I doubt I'll need to run a fuel pump so gravity feed it is!
Next I'll have to do all the wiring and build an exhaust for it, not sure what I'm doing for the exhaust yet I haven't put much thought into it yet!
I didn't realize it before, that is an interesting location for the fuel tank. I had one of those Kohlers once and I could never get it working. Looking good!
Thanks @MightyRaze and I agree about the fuel tank, seems to really utilize normally unused space and the tank looks to be quite large also which is good.
What I've read about these motors is that this box (circled) is called the "Spark Advance Module" (or SAM for short) and when it fails, no spark!
There is light at the end of the tunnel and maybe this can help you (and others) if you come across another: the "SAM" can be bypassed! All you need is a standard coil that fits and you're done! I ordered one on Amazon and although it fit physically, the holes in the coil are spaced too far back to get a proper air gap... I haven't touched it since! Lol. I am planning on elongating the holes so I can test it out to be sure it truly does work, this way I'll have a backup plan in case the "SAM" fails. I think I may just unhook it from the coil also to see what happens, apparently all it does alter the timing upon startup for quicker starts.
I'll give updates on my findings when I cross that bridge.
I made some more progress this evening, the wiring for the tractor is essentially complete and it runs!
The original throttle cable was too short so I dug through my stash and found an old broken one from some machine that was long enough so I installed the wire sheathing in the original control, lubed the heck out of it, sanded down the wire itself and fit it for the proper length.
I also used heat shrink tubing to cover it to keep water, dirt and dust from getting in. It just happens to look really good too!
I used a 2 wire, GM style waterproof connector for the charge and kill wires so the complete harness can be unplugged from the motor and front of the tractor.
There were 2 more wires to deal with, one for power to the "SAM" and another to power the fuel bowl solenoid, I twisted those both together, soldered a single wire to them and ran it to the fuse box. Then I wrapped all the wiring up in split loom to keep it protected and tidy. I just need to secure it up so it's not dangling for a branch to catch!
Luckily there was just enough room to put the muffler on so I could test fire it (but not enough to drive the tractor) and wouldn't you know the thing fired up pretty easily and seemed to run fine. Now I need to build an exhaust so I can drive it around and test it out a bit, hopefully tomorrow after work!
Looking good! I think the cylinder head poking out looks kinda cool actually. Ought to make service a bit easier too.
Thanks @Rustbucket Garage! I'm just happy it fit to be honest! Lol. It will definitely make it easier to change the spark plug but it has the non adjustable rockers unfortunately so I guess it has hydraulic lifters? This is the first full pressure lubed small engine I've had or worked on so it's a learning experience!
The biggest bonus of how it's orientated is just how easy its going to be to build an exhaust for it!
You got that right @MightyRaze and now that the new tires are on...
...I can put the cutting deck on, make the necessary mods to get max cutting height then start building the exhaust! I'd like to run it under the floorboard if possible, guess I'll find out! With the steering and articulation maxed it looks like there's still plenty of room for the stock header pipe once I cut it off the muffler.
I also relocated the oil drain to a hole that was already in the chassis, it took alot of fanagling and I had to open up the hole a little but I finally got it!
I'm sure looking forward to testing out those new tires, I think they make the tractor look bad@$$! Hopefully this weekend *fingers crossed*