I started working on a wiring diagram yesterday for this beast and finished it up today, there's not a stitch of wiring left in the tractor itself so I'm starting from scratch! I used these diagrams as a base to come up with my own, you'll notice some things X'd out as they don't apply to what I'm doing.
I thought I'd be smart and try an color coat based on usage but it didn't end up exactly as I envisioned. No matter, this is what I came up with (legend below):
- RED is main power - ORANGE is power after accessories - GREEN are "trigger" wires - BLUE is "other" I wasn't sure how to classify - BLACK are grounds
For the ignition ON/OFF and START functions my original design wouldn't work, I realized power would've been fed TO the coil and I don't want that! Lol. I've modified the design so the ignition switch still activates the relay for coil KILL function by using ground as an input on pin 30, the ignition switch also enables the push button to trigger the starting solenoid. It's definitely more complex than it has to be but the ignition switch has its own pilot light and I've had to take these measures to keep the option to use it open. Phew! Crisis averted, I'm glad I go over things several times before jumping in! Lol
Most of the the rest is pretty self explanatory aside from the insert which is a pilot light circuit I'd like to test out and see if it works. I do have an ammeter to show if the battery is charging/discharging but I won't be keeping my eyes glued to it and would like a visual warning in case it stops charging so what I'm hoping for is it to come on if the system stops charging!
How it works is the BLUE wire is where the generator sends the power it's making to the voltage regulator to power everything and charge the battery so that is where I will get the signal to open 87A (Normally Closed) on the relay, power for the light comes from L (LOAD) on the voltage regulator. If the generator stops generating power the relay will turn off closing the circuit on 87a and turning the light on! I'm pretty sure I've gotten it right but before I get into it I'll do some testing with my multimeter and make adjustments as needed.
Last edited by Brianator on February 10th 2022, 4:11 pm; edited 5 times in total
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Well enough of the planning and working on it, time to drive the thing! Lol
I installed a temporary battery and wired it up quick, just enough to start it (electrically) and have a kill switch hooked up...
...then took it for a blast around the yard and up and down the street plus a little carb tuning while I was at it. The throttle is still creeping down on me so I need to sort that out (again), I like the push/pull for the throttle and now that I've designed the dashboard for it there's not really any going back! Lol.
im really loving the build all these old tractors makes me really wanna do a restomod like this. my next build is gonna be a craftsman just havent decided the details but its gonna get a dash like that!
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Age : 45 Join date : 2019-07-02 Points : 4548 Posts : 2385 Location : Ontario, Canada
im really loving the build all these old tractors makes me really wanna do a restomod like this. my next build is gonna be a craftsman just havent decided the details but its gonna get a dash like that!
Thanks dude! Glad I could give some inspiration! Restomods can be alot of work and expensive I'll tell ya that! Worth it though, every last bit of it!
On another note, when I had another look at my wiring diagram I noticed a fatal flaw in the ignition/start circuit and have corrected it. I left the old diagram up as a reference and explained the modifications in the post.
Looking good ! the Diamond plate dash turned out nice. iv'e worked with some in the past on a golf cart project i built, and ran into the same thing as you where i had to grind down some of the diamonds to get switches to fit right, but worked out. a little advice for you and anyone else that's going to use diamond plate. what i did was buy a cheap old truck tool box and cut it up. some times you can find junk ones for free !
Looking good ! the Diamond plate dash turned out nice. iv'e worked with some in the past on a golf cart project i built, and ran into the same thing as you where i had to grind down some of the diamonds to get switches to fit right, but worked out. a little advice for you and anyone else that's going to use diamond plate. what i did was buy a cheap old truck tool box and cut it up. some times you can find junk ones for free !
Yep, that’s how I got mine. WITH a trailer made from a truck frame and utility bed. The aluminum is perfect and the metal utility bed is giving me great sheet steel for my builds. Keep an eye out for ‘junk’.
Last edited by Nevadablue on March 13th 2022, 1:05 pm; edited 1 time in total
It's been quite the successful afternoon for me! I wanted to get the hydraulic lift working properly, UP worked fine but DOWN was very sketchy and unusable. I noticed the pillow block "bushing" was broken so that explains something!
Lucky me I just happened to have some of these little roller wheels that are the EXACT perfect size AND shape (slightly curved) to fit in the pillow block, all I had to do was grind the rivet down to remove it from its bracket and drill the hole out to 1/4" for it to fit on the lever shaft!
I made sure the inside of the pillow block was good and clean and I found a knob to use on the end of the lever instead of the fuel line that had been there.
I installed the bushing and lever, greased the pillow block and installed it...
... and as a finishing touch installed the knob! I tested it out and both up and down were working well so it was time to install the plow blade and hook up a lift link!
I started off slow and easy plowing my path then started getting a little more aggressive at the end of the driveway, it was working so well I turned the blade (manually) to the left and bonzai'd up and down the road carving the banks back... this machine is a tank it didn't struggle even a little bit!
After about a half hour of playing with it (which is the longest I've ever run it) I figured it would be a good time to change the engine oil and check the hydro fluid... the engine oil was pretty black and the hydro fluid was down just a touch, it barely leaks but I can see it's still working air out of the system (thanks to the translucent reservoir hose I installed).
I took it for another rip but this time down to the lake and as I was coming back up the hill I stopped and chatted with a neighbor (and took this pic)...
... then popped in on another neighbor because they're working on a snowmobile. Lol. I took a couple pics of the new and improved dashboard while I was there....last night I installed the pilot light, 3 switches (I need to order a few more) and a horn button (on the bottom right). It's a little close to the throttle but not actually in the way, I've found (online) a nicer button that matches the flapper on the other side better, is illuminated AND slightly lower profile so I'm going to order it up! I wanted the horn button diagonally up and left in the next space but there's a support rib behind it and I dont want to cut any of them out, what was important to me is that it was easily visible and easy to get to. No big deal if it looks a little out of place, it's still there and looks decent I think!
I guess that's it for today, I had a freaking blast with it and have a feeling it's going to be one heck of a good mudder! The throttle creeping down is starting to annoy me so I'm hoping I can find and use a throttle/governor plate on it, even if I have to modify it to fit, I just don't think there is any other way I'll get the push/pull throttle to stay put without it but that's for another day!
Well, it was a decent afternoon to putter away so I made some decent progress!
I wanted to start figuring out the hood so I removed the fuel tank, air filter and spark plug then mounted it to what I believe may have been an original mounting point but I'm actually not sure... there had been a homebuilt lift mechanism bolted on the front and the hood hinge was bolted on top. Anyhoo I bolted it on and had a look and noticed it had a piece added to it to compensate for it sitting more forward than stock! It also sat on top of the dashboard and hung way over it (not pictured) when bolted on without the lift mechanism. With the hood bolted as such it was really high in the front but looked like there MAY be room for the spark plug, I'm not sure yet.
When I flipped the hood hinge around it dropped the nose a couple inches, leveled it out nicely and made less overhang on the dashboard so I think I'll set it up like this I actually don't mind it resting on the dashboard and it lifts it that extra little bit. If I rework the curvature of the hood, trim it back a little to match the sides of the dashboard, add some foam rubber and reinforce the dash I think it will be perfect!
One issue is that now it won't clear the spark plug...
...and I don't like the "bulge" they add to H14/H16 tractors as I think it's ugly so I'll either make my own hood scoop or maybe a full length cowl, I haven't decided yet.
I reconfigured the exhaust (temporarily, again) to clear the hood...
... and swapped out the fuel fitting in the carburetor for a 90 degree one to keep the fuel line away from the exhaust.
Then I wanted to get back into the fuel tank/battery debacle... I actually put the 16hp tank on my "Frank N' Blower" and hoped the smaller 8hp tank could work... no dice! But it happens to be the perfect size for my 1969 MTD so it's all good! Lol
All of a sudden the light bulb goes off! I have a fuel tank from a GX200 clone that's not in use because when I put the motor in The Ditchbanger (1987 Suzuki ATV) I used the ATVs tank! It was looking a little tight but doable so I put a piece of threaded rod in the one tank mount and drilled a hole for it.
Oh yeah this is looking good but I need more mounting points so I made a little bracket out of the roller wheel bracket that I had removed from the wheel in my previous post about repairing the hydraulic lift controls...
... and tack welded it to the tank then a quick shot of paint. Don't worry, that tank has been empty and dry for 2 years so there was no risk involved.
Because the side mount is on an angle I made an angled "bushing" and tightened up the bolts. As you can see in the third pic it's a little tight but I was able to easily get my 5/16" wrench in there to tighten up that screw. I am planning on adding another mount underneath by using one or both of the existing tank mounts but I need to install a battery and sort out the electronics first.
It's pretty tight up top, I think I'll end up moving the dash back a hair...
... but look at all that space underneath! Lots of room for the electronics and even a small air compressor! It IS going to be a recovery rig after all! Lol.
I had wanted 2 large tanks but that obviously wasn't going to work out so the large tank in the rear will be my primary and this one will be the reserve tank, you win THIS round @Rustbucket Garage ! Lol
Rustbucket Garage wrote:
I wonder if it would be better to put a reserve under the hood and use the one in the rear as the primary? Seems nice and large and I find opening the hood and trying to refill gas around a hot engine to be a pain but that’s just my 2c.
It actually couldn't have worked out any more perfect, not only do I have enough room for all the electronics underneath but the reserve tank will be gravity fed which means less problems! I'll use it as the primary for now, I still need to get a fuel pump for the rear tank and figure out a way to get a signal from the engine... that will be for another day!
Nice progress. A ‘might tight mate’! I love threads like this where lots of little details are shown. This is how I learn… looking at other’s pics and working the ideas into mine. I really like the overhang that protects the dash too. AND, an air compressor. I think I have one of those little tire inflator things from decades ago. Might have to be used again!
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Thanks @Nevadablue! You should've (and probably will) see the overhang with the front of the hood up where I started, it was actually blocking the view! Lol. The Warhorse was getting the air compressor (and still might), I have a little guy ready to go with a nice curly cord on it and everything!
Nope, a tire inflator! I had an adapter to swap the little hose for a curly cord, I could relocate the gauge to the lower dash also if I wanted (which I might) there's already a hole down on the bottom right corner for some reason. I set this up for The Warhorse but think I'll put it in the Mud Duck and probably another in The Warhorse.
It's always good when you are able to put those spare parts to use. Thats why i hate to ever throw anything away lol. I was also thinking of putting one of those inflators on my rig but not looking like there's going to be any room left. So i guess if i have a flat while i'm out and about i'll have to call Mud Duck Recovery !! I hope you don't charge by the mile
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Derail… I bought a CO2 tank at a yard sale and used it for filling paintball tanks for years. I finally got a proper syphon tank and gave the other tank to a friend who uses it in his 4wd pickup as a tire inflation ‘insurance policy’. A simple regulator (I modified an old oxygen regulator by changing the input nipple to fit the tank) will give you useable pressure range.
@brianator, another idea popped up. I have a little 110 volt inverter that would fit nicely in my rig too. The whole center section of the LT4000 is empty. Air compressor, inverter and probably the battery could go in there. Thinking…
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It's always good when you are able to put those spare parts to use. Thats why i hate to ever throw anything away lol. I was also thinking of putting one of those inflators on my rig but not looking like there's going to be any room left. So i guess if i have a flat while i'm out and about i'll have to call Mud Duck Recovery !! I hope you don't charge by the mile
Nope by the millimeter! Lol. I had actually bought a new pump for my car so I could use that for The Warhorse, man I gotta get working on it again, been picking away here and there but nothing update worthy and the Mud Duck keeps distracting me!
@Nevadablue Hey that would be unique, you should do it! Could charge your phone or maybe even run a small toaster oven! Hot Pockets and mini pizzas for all! Lol
Nope by the millimeter! Lol. I had actually bought a new pump for my car so I could use that for The Warhorse, man I gotta get working on it again, been picking away here and there but nothing update worthy and the Mud Duck keeps distracting me!
@Nevadablue Hey that would be unique, you should do it! Could charge your phone or maybe even run a small toaster oven! Hot Pockets and mini pizzas for all! Lol
Hmmm....a roach coach trail-tractor, now that could be a welcome sight seen coming down the trail.
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Well no real updates but yesterday I tinkered a little bit to keep working out the battery/electronics. I had a battery figured out I was going to use, it was listed as 325CCA but when I went to the store to buy it, it was only 260CCA... not going to cut it in my books and they didn't have anything else I liked so back to the drawing board!
I went online on Canadian Tires website and started looking at batteries there. I made cardboard templates of the 2 I liked best and test fit them, the ETX20L (310CCA) wins! It will fit (just) with the new fuel tank and leave enough room for the electronics under the tank as you can see...
... unfortunately there won't be room for the tire inflator AND electronics but I found a nifty little spot under the seat for it that will work perfect! I'll make a box/cover to go over top of the pump to keep it clean and probably use a tube of some sort for the curly cord to keep it secure.
I also have a line on a pair of ITP Mud Lite tires (26x10-12) I can put on it for now for some added traction and to help me figure out the ideal tire I'll go with, I'm thinking 25x10-12 but we'll see. I've been searching for tires for weeks that are a decent price and not more than an hour away, these are all I've found so far! It's supposed to warm back up for a couple days so hopefully I'll get some work done!
One issue is that now it won't clear the spark plug...
...and I don't like the "bulge" they add to H14/H16 tractors as I think it's ugly so I'll either make my own hood scoop or maybe a full length cowl, I haven't decided yet.
Older discussion and I imagine you’ve probably thought about this already but I wonder if it would be beneficial to raise the hood and dash a couple inches. Just my .02