[Finalist] [22 BO] RCG Sears Racing

#Buildoff2022

Pre Youtube:
Well got to get this posted up so I can make a video about joining the build off and invite others to join tomorrow
Goal on the build is racing at 30+mph ultimately hoping to hit 40+ in 100ft at drags this summer. If you have not seen the Diesel Eater build on YouTube channel RCG Racing. We took that drag racing clearing 28mph in 100ft. That was with a very warn out and less then 4k RPM capable 10hp Diesel.
The engine for this build people claim will do 4600 RPM with just a governor delete. My goal is to break it down and find out. We have a cheap tachometer like I run on all my dragsters and we will monitor the progress as we convert from bone stock factory setup and each modification along the way.

[adm]Welcome to the Build-Off!  Man, everyone is getting those duromax 18hp engines.  Now I need one!
[/adm]

Bravo!

You even got the ‘for racing use only’ switches. Hooah!

Hey looks, the Sears frame I want.

Doug wrote:

Hey looks, the Sears frame I want.

Yah I seem to be getting a ton of bipolar response on this rig. It's I love that I want one to OR I hate those and you should burn it to the ground.

Just out of curiosity, is the muffler coming out of the headlight cutout like somebody punched it in the face, is that factory? I kind of like these sears tractors, they have sort of an interesting look to them. (Never seen one down here for under a million dollars though)

RCG wrote:

Doug wrote:

Hey looks, the Sears frame I want.

Yah I seem to be getting a ton of bipolar response on this rig. It's I love that I want one to OR I hate those and you should burn it to the ground.

Im a little bit of both. Mainly just want one cause the customs are pretty small and I want to build something light.

TechnoChicken wrote:

Just out of curiosity, is the muffler coming out of the headlight cutout like somebody punched it in the face, is that factory? I kind of like these sears tractors, they have sort of an interesting look to them. (Never seen one down here for under a million dollars though)

As a watcher of RCG videos.  Yes, that is a muffler in the headlight.  Is it factory?  No!  Looks like previous owners made several exhaust holes in it over time.

Doug wrote:

RCG wrote:

Doug wrote:

Hey looks, the Sears frame I want.

Yah I seem to be getting a ton of bipolar response on this rig. It's I love that I want one to OR I hate those and you should burn it to the ground.

Im a little bit of both. Mainly just want one cause the customs are pretty small and I want to build something light.

HAHA Light....   Thing weighs as much as a suburban almost!  I'm pretty sure it is as heavy as your GT now.  LOL.  I'll give you smaller.

MightyRaze wrote:

HAHA Light....   Thing weighs as much as a suburban almost!  I'm pretty sure it is as heavy as your GT now.  LOL.  I'll give you smaller.

I could make one lighter I think. Would at least have a smaller profile than Liberty. She's a chonky girl.

Looking forward to this! I humbly suggest getting rid of the headlight muffler and doing a straight stack like the diesel.

Rustbucket Garage wrote:

Looking forward to this! I humbly suggest getting rid of the headlight muffler and doing a straight stack like the diesel.

As seen in the video there is a previous owner exhaust hole in the hood. So that is a possibility but then that gets into the problem of hood removal. I have seen guys make stainless steel pipe clamp inserts to make removal less of a pain. But tear down time at the races is 5 minutes or forfeit between race calls. This was why Diesel eater ran with out a hood often cause the frame flex when I let off would throw the belt sometimes.

RCG wrote:

Rustbucket Garage wrote:

Looking forward to this! I humbly suggest getting rid of the headlight muffler and doing a straight stack like the diesel.

As seen in the video there is a previous owner exhaust hole in the hood. So that is a possibility but then that gets into the problem of hood removal. I have seen guys make stainless steel pipe clamp inserts to make removal less of a pain. But tear down time at the races is 5 minutes or forfeit between race calls. This was why Diesel eater ran with out a hood often cause the frame flex when I let off would throw the belt sometimes.

The way to do a hood stack would be to have a pipe bolted to the hood, with the exhaust header poking up into that pipe. Then the upper pipe would move with the hood.

@RCG I watched the video last night and I think this build is gonna be sweet! on exhaust in my opinion I would just do a straight pipe dump just before the footrest I think that would be simple and look pretty cool.

I think you should make a curved stack that ends just in front of the steering wheel, pointed at your face. That way you will be warm and happy out on the ice. (Look up Thunderbolt and Lightfoot for the original idea. The exhaust in the car was piped into the passenger compartment for their enjoyment)

Doug wrote:

The way to do a hood stack would be to have a pipe bolted to the hood, with the exhaust header poking up into that pipe. Then the upper pipe would move with the hood.

This. Blind mount and nobody can tell the difference

Nevadablue wrote:

I think you should make a curved stack that ends just in front of the steering wheel, pointed at your face. That way you will be warm and happy out on the ice. (Look up Thunderbolt and Lightfoot for the original idea. The exhaust in the car was piped into the passenger compartment for their enjoyment)

Oh yeah, and then if it starts spitting flames out the exhaust you get a free shave!

Just dropping in to update on why no update yet.

Seems the latest wave of plandemical stuff has caused a massive wave of price increases in Maine. Most notable my Electrical bill thanks to a supplier from New York state area jacking prices went from $200 to $250 a month to $450+ a month. Diesel in my area has now hit over $4 a gallon. At this point I am only opening the shop and working on days above freezing as the cost is now almost 5$ an hour to get it up to working temp.

I have Engine upgrade testing videos planed and parts waiting. Just got to ride out the rest of winter first.

RCG wrote:

Just dropping in to update on why no update yet.

Seems the latest wave of plandemical stuff has caused a massive wave of price increases in Maine. Most notable my Electrical bill thanks to a supplier from New York state area jacking prices went from $200 to $250 a month to $450+ a month. Diesel in my area has now hit over $4 a gallon.  At this point I am only opening the shop and working on days above freezing as the cost is now almost 5$ an hour to get it up to working temp.

I have Engine upgrade testing videos planed and parts waiting. Just got to ride out the rest of winter first.

I get the electric supplier thing. Mine’s done some questionable things…namely when they tried to use eminent domain on my property… still pretty sore after that.

Geeze man that's tough, I couldn't even imagine! It looks and sounds like a cool build, there's almost 9 months to go so don't stress over the deadline!

Thanks for that! I want to get one of those tachs for the Rat Rod and now I’ve actually seen one work. Good stuff!

IMO, the sudden opening of the throttle plate causes a drop in air velocity and therefore a drop in gas going to the cylinder. The governor has to kick in because of the drop in RPM. Almost instantaneous but not quite. Open the fuel air mix a bit? Larger orifice? Tell us what you will do to fix it, if it needs fixed.

I can tell you right now that neither removing the air box or the exhaust is going to do anything, the better thing to do would have been setting the "baseline" without the governor, it should stay at that RPM no matter what you do to it...

LOL Its all about the Myths and legends I am sick of hearing about and people not understanding.

Goal is to see just how well the governor does in compensating.

The next round will be a governor delete and rework the baseline with stock exhaust and carb. Then do the upgrades and see what we can hit for a RPM on stock internals.

Based on last years racing with Diesel eater I need 5k or better on stock parts internally to make it worth racing. Also the sears is a thinner machine but thicker frame so the weight should be about the same in the end.