[DNF] [22 BO] diddie's Salvage

So i'm wondering if anyone has ran a chain to a counter shaft which will have a pulley to run to the rear end. which will let me use a shorter belt and should help prevent belt slippage. and make changing the belt easier ? i'm already in the process of doing it, just thought i'd see who else has done this. pics to come soon of what i've built, having issues loading pics right now.

solved my gas tank problem (which was i didn't have the original one ) but with a little ingenuity i was able to make the tank out of the john deere work under the seat as shown in these pics. and opened the opportunity to build me a dual battery tray that also is the skeleton to brace up my steering support/dash whatever you want to call it. and iv'e also been working on my chain to belt jack shaft and got that all sorted out.




                        hoping to get some decent weather this week to take the frame and the JD front clip to the car wash and get them cleaned up so i can get them joined together and get it back into a roller so i can start focusing on the power plant. was planning on a 22 hp briggs but i also have a couple 23 or 24 hp kohler commands i'm thinking about.

Nice work! Looks good AND strong!

Well we had some 40 degree days this week so i was able to get the frames pressure washed. At least good enough to get some work done. 


the next pics you can see how the inside of the JD frame slides right onto the outside edge of the murray frame.


Next ground all my welding points down and clamped it together and flipped it over and welded it up.


then flipped it back over and removed the engine plate and welded it on the top side. should be pretty sturdy.

at this point i decided to do a quick mock up to make sure i'm happy with how it's looking and due to the fact that i'm going to be using some 8 inch wheels with bigger tires on the front it seemed like it would put the front up to high. (don't want no Carolina squat going on here ) so i cut the front axle mounting channel out and notched out the frame to set it in a bit deeper. it was only an inch and a quarter but should be right where i need it. and a lot stronger.

Today was front hub Friday ! with wanting to put 8 inch rims on the front and wanting bolt on so i don't have to fool with clips and grease. i pulled a couple of tires and wheels out of my hoard that came off of a snapper walk behind. to make them work i started with cutting the centers out of the 6 inch wheels


now to fit them to these three lug wheels
 
to get them centered. i put the hub on a shaft in my vise and then i clamped a piece of metal to a brace above and spun the wheel around and adjusted it till it was centered on the hub.
then i marked the holes and drilled them on my drill press !

then installed the studs and bolted them to the wheels and welded the studs in place and got them mounted on the axle ! and i am pleased with the ride height and width of the front.

Very nice! I'm planning on doing the same thing on the rear of The Warhorse so I can run the ATV wheels I have. Nice to see you making progress!

diddie wrote:

So i'm wondering if anyone has ran a chain to a counter shaft which will have a pulley to run to the rear end. which will let me use a shorter belt and should help prevent belt slippage. and make changing the belt easier ? i'm already in the process of doing it, just thought i'd see who else has done this.

I did this to my build, here is a link:
Lt150

@BigPip Thanks for sharing. it looks like you went belt to belt on your jack shaft. i'm going chain to belt. They say you aren't  supposed to run a chain vertical but some say it can be done, just puts more wear on the sides of the gears. i'm gonna roll with it and keep chain lube on it. even if i have to swap out the gears now and then it's no big deal !

diddie wrote:

@BigPip Thanks for sharing. it looks like you went belt to belt on your jack shaft. i'm going chain to belt. They say you aren't  supposed to run a chain vertical but some say it can be done, just puts more wear on the sides of the gears. i'm gonna roll with it and keep chain lube on it. even if i have to swap out the gears now and then it's no big deal !

I must not have updated the photos, it is chain now on the lower/transmission side. I'll take some picture tomorrow and update my thread.

got busy sorting out my steering this past week. found some steering rods with 3/8s heim joints off of a cub cadet i1050 zero tractor i had in the hoard. 

i used them and incorperated them with the original steering rods. you will have to unbolt them to adj. but once the toe is set, should be good to go.



everything clears and seems to work as it should. Next i cut out the top of the dash where the gas tank used to be to make easier access to the dual batteries i'll be running.
Now it was time to nail down the power plant, i was up in the air between a Briggs and a Kohler. The Briggs won because it was easier to get to and less work because it was already removed LOL!.

had to remove the engine mounting plate and position it back about 4 or 5 inches to get the engine back where it needed to be since i had put the JD frame further forward to get that front axle out there where i wanted it.


then started playing around with a front bumper to see how it looks. i've got some others to look into so no final decision on that yet.

Till next time that's all i've got for now. Oh since i moved the rear end back a bit and the axle forward i'm at approximently 52 inches axle to axle. but i don't know what it was when it was stock. if someone that has a wide body that is still stock length could you give me a measurement ! Thanks

BigPip wrote:

diddie wrote:

@BigPip Thanks for sharing. it looks like you went belt to belt on your jack shaft. i'm going chain to belt. They say you aren't  supposed to run a chain vertical but some say it can be done, just puts more wear on the sides of the gears. i'm gonna roll with it and keep chain lube on it. even if i have to swap out the gears now and then it's no big deal !

I must not have updated the photos, it is chain now on the lower/transmission side. I'll take some picture tomorrow and update my thread.

So sounds like you went belt from engine to jack shaft and chain from jack shaft to rear end. i'm doing it the other way around LOL.

Just curious why the chain? Because of the clutch? Sorry, I missed this in the thread.

I made a belt to belt jackshaft from a mower deck spindle. Hope it works, hasn’t been run yet, but the same thing would work with a chain.

@Nevadablue running a chain from engine to jack shaft where it goes around the steering shaft so it will be less work to change the belt. aka you wont have to take the steering shaft loose and pull it up. no slippage with the chain either. and that makes for a shorter belt as well which in my eyes will be less chance of slipping.

Thanks! Makes sense.

gonna be doing some fab work to get the hood sorted out this weekend. but in the mean time i got some switches i ordered in the mail today for my dual battery set up !

Lol, we're both doing the same thing with the battery relocation. Great minds think alike!

I'll check Ole Blue's axle to axle length in a bit when the rain quits and let you know!

EDIT: I measured the one I'm flipping to sell. Completely stock aside from a motor swap. Looks to be about 48" from the center of each axle. That's not exact but pretty close.

Murraymountain wrote:

Lol, we're both doing the same thing with the battery relocation. Great minds think alike!

I'll check Ole Blue's axle to axle length in a bit when the rain quits and let you know!

EDIT: I measured the one I'm flipping to sell. Completely stock aside from a motor swap. Looks to be about 48" from the center of each axle. That's not exact but pretty close.

Thank you sir. looks like about a 4 inch streach i've got which is perfect as i didn't want to go to much. and yah i like the battery close to the engine and dash so shorter cables and wiring !

Well after a lot of staring and back and forth in my head i finally figured i'd make the hood a front lift. and just let me say i don't know anything about figuring angles or geometry. i'm strickly trial and error ! 
So to make the brackets i would need i started by making a dash and hood out of cardboard and made a piece to connect them with a pivot point, and then hacked away at it till it seemed to be what i was looking for.

then i transferd that to some 1/4 inch plate steel i had kicking around to cut out my brackets.


Let me just say a plasma cutter would have been nice to have at this point ! cut off wheels die grinders and flap discs along with about two hours got it done though !
 So then i welded some nuts inside the dash for them to be bolted to with some shoulder bolts,  then welded a bracket to the inside of the hood to attach them to. 
 so with the hood in place and me upside down crawled up into the engine area with a welding helmet on and holding the brackets in place i some how managed to tack them in place good enough to hold them in place then i removed the hood for final welding.

after a full weld and some paint i reinstalled it and to my surprise IT WORKS !

That's awesome nice work! I love it!

I also got my switches installed for my dual battery set up. you will be able to use batt 1 batt 2 or both at the same time. it seems like murray made this removable panel just for this. lol but seriously that was an awesome thing to do with this removable panel. some engineer was using his head.

Nice work! I imagine that will make engine maintenance a lot easier. I love the dual battery idea

@Brianator Appriciate it sir ! i was pretty pleased with it. had my wife come out and see it (even though she don't give 2 S#!@s about it) and she gave me a pat on the back ! and then said can i go back in now !! lol.

@Rustbucket Garage sure thing ! everything is right there for easy access. working on figuering out some hood lift supports next but if that don't work out due to space, a hood prop will get the job done.

Nice job on the hood. I’ve never seen one done like that.

Those switches you used on the battery setup are good stuff. I used them on heavy equipment when I was a wrench turner, long ago. I bought similar ones for my builds now, but they have the ‘key’ that comes out, so you can turn off the battery and take the key away if you want.

@Nevadabluethanks it took me a while to decide if i was going to be able to make it work . but i'm glad i pushed through on it.

Not a lot of progress since last update. been working on my hood prop situation

in this first pic. i made a bracket to attach to the top of the hood to hook the hood strut to. the strut in the pic was way to short. part of the reason for very little update. as i need this done before i can break it down to do all my final welding and a bit more fab work.


After a couple trips to the junk yard and some trial and error i managed to make this thing work. 
unfortunatly the winning strut is weak and just bearley holds it up ! But i know what it came off of and ordered a new one and will have it in about a week. But with that done i can move forward !