Non-topic Tractor Talk.

Here is a good place to share your tractor discussions that don't have their own build threads!  Have fun, share your discoveries and general tractor talk!

OOO ILL START!!! im way too exited because im bored atm. so i wanna reengineer the MTD cvt to be more complicated because im curious how a go kart 30 series cvt would effect a mtd leaving stock pullies front and rear and putting a pully on bottom (to engine) and on top a 30 series cvt from a go kart which would mean two speed high low automatic with foot clutch and reverse too me that sounds like it would be really fast. also a mst206 with that setup would be perfect for drag racing. giving take off torque and plenty of top end being a automatic two speed with 6 gears

Just don't mud up the CVT!

yea it would be a racing tractor not a mud tractor LOL

Well I “may” have an idea for another, albeit quick and not terribly interesting build.


So I’m big into ice fishing, and despite being flatfooted as a jackrabbit I can pull my sled fine. But I am impatient and like to get out on the water quick. So my thought was that there are several rear-engine riders for sale in my area fairly cheap. I think I may build an ice buggy, something like this:


Nice and small and light, and since its a mower I doubt it would need to be registered. Which costs an arm and a leg in NY.

Could probably do some sort of half track thing too and cruise the snow banks that we get around here.

A little more traction on the rear, and that might work.

@Rustbucket Garage it's cool to see a fellow ice fisherman in here ! I actually built a rig similar to that using a sears snowblower with tracks and arctic cat kitty cat skis on a toro 910.

to do this


just saying a feller here really likes ice fishing!

Use sand paddle ATV tires on the rear and you'll be golden!

Nice rig and nice perch! Nice to see another fellow that dares to brave the cold.

@MightyRaze if I go through with this then I'd definitely try something for traction. I think I'd get a set of old tires, cut off the sidewalls and add studs to the treads and maybe some grousers. Probably would try and stay away from extra weight, wouldn't want to sink in.

If nothing else it would be neat to mount a potato cannon to the front and give it a camo paint job.

"These are the fastest tanks in the European Theater, forwards or backwards. We like to feel can get out of trouble quicker than we got into it."

Bonus points if you can name the movie!

im starting to wonder if i can make a bracket to fit a briggs starter on a sears 16hp cast iron tecumseh i dont wanna buy a new starter

Bigger question... would the teeth on the starter be compatible with the Tecumseh?

ya like mighty said I would make sure the teeth on the starter would be compatible with the ring gear on the flywheel on the tecumusche also correct spacing for it to engage and disengage properly.

probalby now i thik its better to buy a new one but i cant look them up on my school laptop id have to wait till i get home and ill be busy

another dumb build idea i might actually do... i have a tufftorque hydro and an mtd diff and axle shafts i wanna do chain drive from the hydro to the axle shafts and support the axle shafts with pillow block bearings and make it go fast because then stock pulllys and tensioners and foot drive for the hydro puts less stress on the hydro so you can go faster and it would be smoother too

I found this today, a little out of my budget but just stupid cool.

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-lawnmower-leaf-blower/markham-york-region/antique-vintage-toro-riding-lawn-mower-complete/1578354372

@TechnoChicken my uncle has one of those, a Toro one

Budget_gokart wrote:

another dumb build idea i might actually do... i have a tufftorque hydro and an mtd diff and axle shafts i wanna do chain drive from the hydro to the axle shafts and support the axle shafts with pillow block bearings and make it go fast because then stock pulllys and tensioners and foot drive for the hydro puts less stress on the hydro so you can go faster and it would be smoother too

I think i got the DUMB build idea locked up with this doozee
So my idea is to make a drivable 4' x 8' steel work bench featuring:

a frame that is about 20" to 24" tall with powered camper leveling jacks at the corners to take it up to about 36" to 40".
using a tractor transaxle, engine and steering to move it, drive it around.
two seats that are on tracks that can be positioned and locked in place all the way around.
onboard generator, small air compressor and a TIG-PLASMA-STICK.
pull out dual slide (goes to both sides) tool drawer with sockets, wrenches, screwdriver and most of the common hand tools.
up on top would be a HF truck bed crane with positional lights mounted on it, a winch and a place for ramps to attach to drag ""things"" up to work on.

Maybe an optional 4' round turntable opposite of the driving controls end.

The leveling legs are for using it out and around on the property to help level it and to raise and lower as needed when in the garage.

Here is an old Bolens "Husky" 1225 that I picked up 2 years ago as part of a package deal for $500, it has a Hydrostatic (Eaton 10) with hydraulic lift and no engine...


When I picked it up



As it sits now




All I really wanted was the snowcaster and the rear mount tiller for my G10 but the guy wanted everything gone or no deal so I came home with all that plus a really well (home)made front blade plus a homemade hay fork, 2 brand new 8" turf tires, several homemade lift links and the headlights. Oh and it had tire chains that fit right on my G10 which was a big bonus!

I'd like to make a tractor recovery rig out it in case I or my friend break something major when we're out on the trails this coming summer, with 12" rear wheels and 8" front I think it could have good potential especially with the ground clearance and rear adjustable diff lock! I do have a 16hp Briggs and Stratton single slug industrial motor that I can fanagle in there BUT I don't know yet if the Eaton 10 is any good... that's a project for this coming week! I need to grab some fluid and a new filter first, I'm going to use a pulley on a cordless drill to test the pump and see if anything even works! Lol. Wish me luck guys!

Here's a couple shots of the blade on my G10 after I made a lift bracket for the lift link to connect to. I've only used it to grade my dirt driveway so far but it worked great!



Let me know what you think and if you have any tips or suggestions in case I run into troubles with the pump! I'll make a build thread for it IF it shows some signs of life but I won't get my hopes up.

My Grandfather had a Husky, no idea what ended up happening to it.

If it sat for a while, the valves could be stuck in the hydro.

Thanks for the tip @Doug Any recommendations on how to get them unstuck if they are, like without opening anything up? I have too much on the go to considering spending more than a few bucks and a couple hours on it right now. I have worked on some hydraulics and also have good working knowledge on the subject but I've yet to mess around with a Hydrostatic setup.

BTW, does anyone else absolutely hate diaphragm carbs? I can get a engine with a bowl & float carb that's been sitting 5 years to purr like a kitten with a little carb cleaner, but the second a diaphragm carb comes in I've already deemed it dead, I mean I can get it running, but never as nicely as a bowl & float 

also diaphragm is really hard to spell...

lol i agree diaphram carbs are a pain i would like to get one of the racing diaphram carbs for a mower one day but ill probably stick with bowl and float they are more serviceable. also i found a website that sells racing parts for all of my mowers lol ive got a bunch of engines to choose from they sell parts for. the single OHVs, single flathead 12hps, twin flatheads, intek vtwin, vanguard twin. i think imma buy a cam for my intek and a high torque starter and valve springs retainers cromoly pushrods con rods and an aftermarket carb too just gotta get a job first

Good news boys, the Eaton 10 Hydro in the Bolens is showing signs of life! I had a friend help me out by using a drill with a pulley to slowly turn the pump backwards and draw fluid into the system via the oil filter housing  while I kept topping it up and playing with the controls until it wouldn't take any more. Once it was topped up I put a new oil filter on, took control of the drill and spun it the proper direction and the Hydro pedal started fluttering! He started using the lift cylinder which started working and moved the Hydro pedal a little each way and heck if it wasn't frozen into the ground it would've moved! I've placed some cardboard under it so tomorrow I can look for any leaks and if it's not horrible out I'll get it freed from the ground and more accessible so I can start fanagling a temporary motor in it for more conclusive testing!

I'm excited as @#$%! Lol

I’ve been told that a good way to determine hydro health is to put it in gear and push. A good hydro shouldn’t move. (Sorta ironic ain’t it?)

Rustbucket Garage wrote:

I’ve been told that a good way to determine hydro health is to put it in gear and push. A good hydro shouldn’t move. (Sorta ironic ain’t it?)

That makes sense to me! With the valves closed it should be hydro locked and you shouldn't be able to have any pressure escape to let it move, I'm going to do some 1225 specific research to see if it applies to this (probably does), thanks for the input! I'm not 100 percent yet if this applies to the 1225 BUT I know you can't roll any gear driven tube frame Bolens (even in neutral) because they use a worm drive, if you can your gearset is trashed. There is a free wheeling pin on the RR hub you need to disengage.

**Edit**  You said "in gear" which this doesn't have because  it's always in gear and I don't believe there's is any way to disengage. I think you're referring to a Hydro transmission whereas mine I think would be referred to as a Hydro transaxle. Still appreciate the input though that's good advice!