11hp to 13hp briggs swap

Hello all,
I am upgrading from a blown up 11hp to a 13hp briggs and i am having a little trouble with the wiring. Hoping someone can point me in the right direction.
Here are the connectors I have:
A red/black pair (suspect this to be the alternator/charging harness) and a gray/black pair (suspect this to be the fuel shut off soleniod harness)




I have gone as far as I could looking at the diagrams on Jack's webpage in identifying the dual circuit charging wires/harness:
https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/manufacturer/briggs-stratton/briggs-stratton-engine/200000-399999-series/28s700-to-28s799/28s777-1142-e1/alternator-magneto
And it shows that the female corresponding plug pigtail is available. Still not exactly sure where those two wires would go to once i get ahold of the pigtail for that.

I have also gotten to the point of identifying the Walbro carb/solenoid but with one small hiccup, I'm not sure that my harness splits as the picture and drawings show, mine seems to just run straight over to near the starter as a pair as shown in the first pics.
https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/manufacturer/briggs-stratton/briggs-stratton-engine/200000-399999-series/28s700-to-28s799/28s777-1142-e1/carburetor-overhaul-kit
I am aware that it just needs 12v supply with the ignition on. so it might make no difference if i can find terminals on the ignition switch that provide this, just a simple tie-in, or WCS I will re-purpose the headlight switch...

I also can't seem to find the ground-to-kill wire. would the fuel shutoff systems replace that or have i overlooked it? I have looked all around the engine and in the diagrams and they don't seem to make mention of it unless it is the black one in the charging pair....

Some help on this would be much appreciated

Thanks,
-Josh

I think you could bypass the fuel shut-off entirely if you want. Just un-thread the solenoid and snip the end of the needle off, I've done that before.

Although it does seem odd that you don't appear to have a kill wire. I've never heard of the shut-off solenoid being used as the primary engine kill, but who knows. Maybe you should take you blower shroud off and check out the coil to see if you can find the wire.

AllisKidD21 wrote:

I think you could bypass the fuel shut-off entirely if you want. Just un-thread the solenoid and snip the end of the needle off, I've done that before.

Although it does seem odd that you don't appear to have a kill wire. I've never heard of the shut-off solenoid being used as the primary engine kill, but who knows. Maybe you should take you  blower shroud off and check out the coil to see if you can find the wire.

Thanks for the reply!
I have had these engines (old 11h did it) backfire when shutting them down. I'm content to wire up the solenoid so long as it is working and serves a function, but if it gives up, that's exactly what i'll do, and most likely leave it like that unless it just bugs me. assuming that i can find wires at the ignition switch that give me what i need and it's not a real chore to hook it up. as far as the kill wire goes, i'll take a look inside and make sure it's not hiding from me. i agree, even with the solenoid it should be there.

-Josh

Black by the dip stick should be the kill wire and the white goes to fuel solenoid.  Black from fuel solenoid i bet wraps around and grounds to the engine where the white from solenoid runs towards the dip stick to match the white there.

MightyRaze wrote:

Black by the dip stick should be the kill wire and the white goes to fuel solenoid.  Black from fuel solenoid i bet wraps around and grounds to the engine where the white from solenoid runs towards the dip stick to match the white there.

Thanks for the help everyone!

Yes, the black wire at the solenoid connector goes right to ground near the solenoid and the kill wire catches back up to the gray (white) as comes through the lower tin and around to the starter/dipstick area, so that pair are:
gray = 12v+ to fuel solenoid
black = ignition kill wire from coil
together in one plug.

Now the second plug...from what i'm reading are:
red/diode = DC charging wire
black = AC charging wire (for lights?)

Here's where it gets a little weird. I don't seem to have a regulator with this engine. it seems it should have been bolted to the engine. I guess there could be remote mounted versions, or maybe i don't need one. Some additional advice on that would be much appreciated but i think i have the solenoid and kill wire worked out. all i really need is a 12vdc charging wire since that's all the old engine had. If i could ignore the AC side and avoid needing a regulator, that'd be fine with me. not sure if that's how it works or not. Not sure if there's really much danger of over charging the battery running it (red wire with diode) straight over to the batt...

Also thought it'd be worth mentioning that I could probably use some connectors to make the wiring a little cleaner. and maybe a regulator if anyone has one banging around.

Thanks,
-Josh

There's usually no regulator on these single cylinders, but the diode in the red wire is what allows it to be DC for charging the battery. So basically there's no need for a regulator/rectifier.

Also you are correct, the black wire is usually there to run headlights.

AllisKidD21 wrote:

There's usually no regulator on these single cylinders, but the diode in the red wire is what allows it to be DC for charging the battery. So basically there's no need for a regulator/rectifier.

Also you are correct, the black wire is usually there to run headlights.

awesome thanks!
-Josh