Well, I gotta say, now is not the time to mess with 'er. I should have left it alone until I can completely focus on this project. I have to finish the Beater Murray, get a decent welder AND learn how to use it, school starts in 2 weeks, I've still got tractors from this mowing season to get fixed up and be rid of, the Scat Rat is coming with a new year and that's creeping up fast, I'm looking at ANOTHER project not even related to this stuff, And to top it all off, the MM needs to be finished ASAP.
So, as much as I hate to, I'm gonna have to put this one aside for now. At least until the build off is over.... I already miss it.
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Well, to make a little space and to keep the pressure of building it off of me (and to see it again ), I decided to piece 'er back together! It won't drive since it has no clutch and a cut front axle, but at least I can hear her run again! I did do some things I've been wanting to do since it was apart... Cut the unnecessary lip off the engine plate, and I opened up the space under the engine where the pulley goes a little more. Also cleaned up the wiring by deleting the safeties. Anyway, I expect to hear her run tonight!
Starting to look like something...
Starting to look like my baby again! LOL.
Nope, this is not the new stance.
I'm going to revive this build as specifically a RALLY build. Not an offroad/rally build, a full on go fast through the woods and creeks like Grind Hard Plumbing Co rally build. I will be lowering the original stance a little bit... Don't wanna roll going around a corner really fast. I'd like a top speed of about 40MPH so I can give my cousins a run for their money on their ATV's. May do a different suspension setup on this one. The Mountain Murray will have this setup, but I doubt this one will.
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So, we were at the junkyard today trying to find an 820 bearing for my brother's machine, and he didn't have any, so, for $25, we picked up a Peerless 820 to take the bearing out of. Anyway, already pulled the bearing and sealed up my brother's tranny, and now we just need to get the rusted wheel off, piece it back together and throw it under the Murray. This tranny IS going to go in THIS machine. I just decided this week to get an 820 for it, and whataya know... It's already here...
It's getting exciting over here guys...
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All I'm waiting on is the circular plate (8" OD 6.5" ID) from the fab shop and the engine build is complete!
Anyway, the trans work has started. All the gear sets are in and the individual gears are, according to me, spaced properly. And somehow, the Doc Locker is pretty much in fact DONE. Only thing I'm waiting on is the JB Weld to cure so I can give it a hard massage. Once that's done, I can actually reassemble it!
I had to re-cut the keys so that they're 1.5" long instead of like a 3/4" long. And I also cut the key ways in the hub too wide, but I was able to fix it by cutting up a washer and fitting it into the left over space. That took up most of the play, so I think it'll be pretty strong. The key ways may be wide in this one, but the key ways in the MM were super sketchy... So yeah, I'm sure I'll be very proud of this trans as long as I succeed in making it hold it's oil instead of leaking everywhere.
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I think they all tend to leak a little bit. At least all the ones I've had leaked. What kind of oil are you gonna use?
On my peerless 700 I tried straight STP oil treatment thinking that would be pretty thick, but even that seeped out of mine. And the input shaft is straight down on those with an O-ring on the shaft, which you replace with a seal to run oil. I put the seal in and still leaked lol.
I've never had problem with the input shafts leaking. Only axle seals. I've had the MM's trans apart roughly 5-6 times and it still leaks somewhat. It held a little better with JB Weld but it still leaked. I think I may not have put enough on, so I made sure that I overdid the amount of JB Weld on this one. Hopefully that does it.
I'm gonna be running 75W-90 synthetic gear oil.
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If you know that I only have 15 more where those came from, well then you might be able to guess what the rest will be used for.
This is all that shows of the under hood light...
I also replaced all the crappy self-tapping square bit screws with real bolts with lock washers and nuts...
Anyway, I tried to straighten the frame. It helped, but could still be better. If I can get the transmission in without too much hassle then I think the frame will be fine... Especially after I reinforce it.
Anyway, not only is the hood done, so is the TRANSMISSION!
Lookin' real good...
Here's my brake setup...
No more stock brakes! Good riddance! I used a pretty thin pipe clamp, but I folded it in half and used 2 of them, so that means it's 4 times the thickness of the original thickness. Plenty strong for what I'm doing with it. I used that, and then ran a long bolt through it and used nuts for spacers and..... You get the idea. Pretty simple and effective if you ask me. Just needed to think it out some.
Brakes disengaged...
Brakes fully engaged...
Perfect! Only thing I'm worried about is the wheel sticking over the brakes. That would make it a bit tough to get them to function properly, but I'll figure that out if that's what happens.
The new 4 lug hubs... Held on by "cotter pins"....
Much better than any E-clip.
I used about 4 spacers from various trannies. There is about 7/8 of an inch left over at the ends of the axle.
Nice an purty!
Comparison time! Stock MST...
My MST...
Even if it leaks, this is without a doubt the best trans I've built yet! No play anywhere! Everything runs as smooth as butter!
Anyway, it's temporarily back in it's hibernation den...
Won't be there for too long I hope. Anyway, glad to have that trans done! The engine is still waiting on that adapter plate. As soon as I get that, the engine will be complete! After the engine is done, the build is probably on hold until I get the welder.
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Beautiful air filter! We'll see how long that stays clean...
This thing is one nice motor for what is in it. The only possible fail points are the pull start, and snorkel. I'm not as worried about the snorkel as I am the pull start though. We'll see what happens. At the end of this build stage I'll go through all that's been done. All I can say is............. I can't. The picture says it all!
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Thanks guys! This was my original tractor so I definitely want it top notch!
Yeah, I didn't really think about that. I don't think it will, but if I didn't put it in, I'm pretty sure I would break the keys or something once I do any sort of clutch dump. If it does, well, I do have a spare case and by that time, a welder as well.
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Didn't want to, but I have too many other projects right now to worry about this one and I'm still waiting on the right deal for the welder. I expect it to be making a comeback around December. We'll see. Anyway, when this thing comes back, frame is next.
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Well well well, looks like "December" was a bit further away than I imagined lol. Anyway, I said in the last post that when this build returns, the frame will be next on the chopping block. Unfortunately that is not the case anymore. If you keep up with the MM thread then you'll notice that the MM is in the process of getting all the mods that I said would be on this and then some. Well, you would be correct. That is exactly what is happening to the MM as the frame and IFS are currently finishing their time on the chopping block. So what does that mean for Ole Blue? Well, he will still be getting all the mods I have previously claimed he will get, just in due time and not now. The MM is currently going into what I call stage 2, and Ole Blue is now going to play the role the MM has been playing. I am building it pretty close to what the MM was before I stripped it down just without the kinks.
The reasoning for doing this is because if I can get into the Christmas parade this year, the MM will most likely not be done in time. So that's why Ole Blue has returned. It needs wayyy less work to be ready to go. He will have an 8 foot trailer hooked up and be ran in the parade. So anyway, I already mostly have it put back together.
Currently quite a wide load back there lol.
I am currently running into an issue where the shifter and clutch collide and I don't understand why since it's pretty much all stock Murray parts. Anyway, the big things that still need to be done: Wiring, drivetrain, left-hand shifter, relocate battery and gas tank, gas pedal, hook up brakes, strong trailer hitch. Some smaller things to do: Pull mouse nest out of motor, front wheel bearings, hood fitment, repair snorkel, hook up choke, etc. Anyway, Ole Blue is coming back to life! At least for a little while!
Here's an update that seems a little clearer than this post lol.
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Good Lord I did not think the last update was that long ago. Anyway, let's do a little updating.
So, the wiring is done. All the lights and everything works! The winch unfortunately will not work. You can hear it click but it does nothing.
I also pulled that stupid mouse nest out of the motor. My beautiful coil is rusty again
And then for a few other things that I've done recently but do not have pics of. I've finished the gas pedal! It took a lot of thought but I finally got it. I also put the wheel bearings in, tack welded all the frame pieces together, put supports on the rack, etc. A bunch of little things. Here is the final list:
-Finish the shifter -Hood fitment -Mount skid plates -Belt guards -Fix snorkel -Bluetooth Speaker -Fix winch -Finish brakes -Get 20 inch V-tread rear tires -Build a heavy duty trailer hitch
And preferably do all this before the end of the month.
I've currently been trying to get the shifter and brakes done, but all I see is problems problems and problems. I'm on my second configuration for the shifter and am realizing it cannot work because the hardened steel will not weld. So now I have to clean everything I welded off and try again with 90 degree steel pipes to connect the pieces of it together and then hope it works right. I have a feeling I'm just gonna end up cutting in the right side of the body and using a stock shifter.
As far as brakes go, my theory should be working fine. But no. It refuses. And, to top that off, since the trans leaks, I have the same issue Mighty has on Red. No brakage whatsoever because it is slicked up with oil. So, I am going to try a few more things to make it work, but if they fail, then I am forced to go to a disk brake. I would just cruise on no brakes, but I can't do that in a parade or with 7 teenagers on a trailer. Talk about liability . So, it's looking like disk brakes for this one.
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-Finish the shifter -Hood fitment -Mount skid plates -Belt guards -Fix snorkel -Bluetooth Speaker -Fix winch -Finish brakes -Get 20 inch V-tread rear tires -Build a heavy duty trailer hitch
Welp, was able to get some of the last major things off the list! I ended up just going with a stock shifter out of a parts frame I had and cut a slot in the body for it. Not too happy about cutting up the body but it is what it is.
Also Managed to get all the skid plates mounted up!
The "ripp'm's" pedal configuration...
I believe the belt I have may be too small. It fits almost perfect when I look at it, but I literally cannot start it without taking the belt off because it has too much drag for the starter to handle. I am so confused. The pull start also shattered as I guessed it would. So I am currently trying to sort out this belt issue because this is terrible.
But anywho, the list is winding down! Getting pretty close to finishing up here. At least until the MM is back.