Ford Wheeler "Ford 100"

well my drill is a 20 year old 18v colrdless running off of a car jumper pack or a lawn tractor battery. there is not much speed, and if i push down to hard it just stopps. i ueasly got what im working with on the ground. then i neal over using my chest to push down on the drill.

i do despratly need a good nights sleep. you can tell from how im talking in the video that its really starting to take its tole, juggling 10hr work days and staying up late trying to make the ford not suck to drive.

well, come 2019 build off time i have some new ideahs and change of plans with this. i want to exstend the frame sevral feet to accommodate me wanting to use my current rear wheels on the front, as well as making room for the trubo and suspension. i deceided i want to get the biggest damn ATV tiers i can and use a solid axle to make the wheels stick entierly outside of the fenders, im also got an ideah for 4 wheell drive with a 2nd cluch for it i want to try out using a wide rear axle, a universal joint, and some pullies.

when the build off comes im turning this ford in to a unstoppable heavy mud tank.

What kinda suspension are we talking about here? Since it's a Ford I think a heavy duty radius arms setup with coils and a track bar like a newer Super Duty would be pretty neat.

i dont know half the stuff you said. but i wold be some what cloning this setup
https://www.atltf.com/t5430p250-husqvarna-lt-130

but i want to have a solid axle with inverversal joints to the front wheel hubs. i want to use the rotation from the rear axle and tie it to the front axle. witch its own chuch so i can have 2wd and 4wd. honestly im not 100% shure how im going to pull it all off, but i bet i will. ile probably try some stuff that dont work so great and make it better.
im if i think i can after the front i might attempt rear suspension, since the seat has none. but thats up in the air still.

this is a quick rough sketch some what ok on scale of what im going for. have not thoght about things like bumbers yet.

RockeyDA wrote:

i dont know half the stuff you said.  but i wold be some what cloning  this setup
https://www.atltf.com/t5430p250-husqvarna-lt-130

Ah, a Y-link setup. Good choice, I have that setup on my MTD with coils and a track bar. Works great and handles abuse very very well so far.

yeah, i think i cold break recneckcomputergeeks setup good with 1 trail ride. but im a really aggressive rider and yall know that by now. i hope i man make good enough welds to keep the ford wheeler from snapping in half on me... disaster to come in 2019

if you want suspension you could possibly use a atv shaft drive differential in the front, turn it up so a pulley could be mounted to it, then have a double pulley running two belts one for the rear and one for the front, a simple lever that you pull back and lock in place could be used for the front clutch, basically just like you would to engage a mower deck or if you're dead set on a solid axle, mount two 700s with a double pulley on the engine, have the clutch setup I mentioned running one 700 and have the second 700 running like normal to the rear axle, this would give you chain drive front and rear with the option of running 2 wheel drive and even front wheel dig, like a pro rock crawler, if you wanted or needed it.

yeah, theres is a problem with that, were am i going to find 4 wheeler parts? 4 wheelers are damn expensive. i got tractor supply, dumpster diving, mcmaster carr, and maby a junk yard trip a few times a year for parts. dont know what a 700 is.
im steering clear from anything involving a chain, belts an pop off, chains explode and are expensive to replace, harder to replace, more susceptible to dirt, and sprockets cost alot more than pullies.
as far as the 2nd cluch goes i was thinking of a 2nd pedal on the left that locks like the first one. because i think having 4 pedals wold fit the overkill look.

give it time, i will make this work, and it wont look like any one elses setup. i will have more pride in my setup that way.

It sure sounds great!  Looks like your steering wheel could be tilted back a little bit toward you, or maybe you like that riding position.  I know your tubular dash is temporary anyway.

a 700 meaning peerless 700 transmission, belt driven but with outputs on both sides, it uses the same gear cluster as a peerless 820, at least that's what i have read, you would still have to come up with axles, but a peerless 700 could be used as a transfer case with drive shafts instead of chains, just mount it sideways, as for the atv front differential, I've seen a number of them on ebay for under $40

darkside0914 wrote:

a 700 meaning peerless 700 transmission, belt driven but with outputs on both sides, it uses the same gear cluster as a peerless 820, at least that's what i have read, you would still have to come up with axles, but a peerless 700 could be used as a transfer case with drive shafts instead of chains, just mount it sideways, as for the atv front differential, I've seen a number of them on ebay for under $40

im going to try and make every thing i can on my own, if i have problems then i will reach out.

i cant find an amarican made V-twin diesel, do you guys know of any amarican brands other than kohler? kohler only dose inline

I like American made things, and I will (quoting a song called Made in America) "Spend a little more in the store for a tag in the back that says USA." However, although I don't like supporting Japan because of Pearl Harbor, I do believe that the Japanese make the best engines. My Yanmar is phenomenal. There are even rubber grommets on the heat shields for vibration noises. I would definitely recommend a used Yanmar if you want the money to stay in the Land of the Free.

not that im willing to go non-amarican, but dose yanamar even make a V-twin or apposing twin? i want a 2 cilinder and inline is to wide.

For those of you that are so concerned about buying foreign, it's worth noting that a diesel made buy Kohler or Briggs was most likely actually not built buy them. The engine will be a product from another company that was bought and re-branded. Extremely common practice.

Also a small inline 2 cylinder like a Kubota would probably not be too hard to fit at all. I've seen them in smaller tractors than that ol' Ford.

so are all these rebrands?
https://kohlerpower.com/en/engines/products#!/?kp_prod_search&Series=Diesel%2BAir-Cooled

They will be made by an Lombardini, Kohler owns them and sells their diesels under the Kohler name in North America.

well, thanks for the info depressing or not. that means i dont know of any American made diesels.

RockeyDA wrote:

so are all these rebrands?
https://kohlerpower.com/en/engines/products#!/?kp_prod_search&Series=Diesel%2BAir-Cooled

are thes inlines less the same or less think than my t-win? becase the motor i got now is already to far over on 1 side. if i had no bolts olding it down, storm force winds cold totly knock that motor off the tractor. im prety shure i talked about this before the the motors mounted less than half an inch from its tipping point.

so i was thinking when im hard core modifying this ford, i have diceded im adding some linkages, might even have 2 cluch pulles (1 in front 1 in rear) but im defently having a cluch pully close to the transaxle, so when i engage my movement the pully helps wrap the belt around more of the transaxle pully resulting in more surface area contact AKA less belt slip in mud.

i was thinking 1 in the front and 1 in the back so i can have a bigger belt so i can not have issues stopping as well as not having isses going. as of now i have to put my boot on the cluch pully if i want to shift gears, and i had problems like that from day 1.

2 may be overkill?  Maybe an idler in the front and just a clutch in the rear?

what size of belt are you running

Buck wrote:

what size of belt are you running

85" 84" is so small the cluch can only half way activate

@mightyraze why not have 2 cluch pullies? wold not be hard to pull off.

Add some keepers or pulleys to keep the belt from drooping when you push in the clutch and one pulley will do fine.