[Complete] John Deere 110 "Sub-Compact Tractor" Build [2018 Build-Off Entry]

Coil could be overheating?

MightyRaze wrote:

Coil could be overheating?

very likely, has happened to me a few times but usually the symptom is that it will start and run for 15-30 mins then die and not restart until it cools down for a while...

mrshaft696 wrote:

MightyRaze wrote:

Coil could be overheating?

very likely, has happened to me a few times but usually the symptom is that it will start and run for 15-30 mins then die and not restart until it cools down for a while...

why wold it over heat? shorted windings in the coil? i know a FBT in a tv will overheat if there are shorted coils or something loading town the HV to much. i guess loading down to much in this case cold be to small of a spark gap. all i can think of.

RockeyDA wrote:

mrshaft696 wrote:

MightyRaze wrote:

Coil could be overheating?

very likely, has happened to me a few times but usually the symptom is that it will start and run for 15-30 mins then die and not restart until it cools down for a while...

why wold it over heat? shorted windings in the coil? i know a FBT in a tv will overheat if there are shorted coils or something loading town the HV to much.  i guess loading down to much in this case cold be to small of a spark gap. all i can think of.

I didnt know the mechanics of why I just know it happens but according to the WWW....

"There have been cases of magnetos overheating in service resulting in temporary magneto failure. ... As a magneto heats, the resistance of the wiring in the coil will increase causing a decrease in output. In several cases the engine could not be started when hot due to weak or no spark output from the magneto."

Next up on Why the Heck do I Even Need a Welder??




Question to the admins:

This build is done, and it runs, drives, has remote start/kill, has brakes, etc. Does the qualification video have to show all that in it, or could I make a video showing it qualifies, and then one shiwing it off?

Need at least a video of completed build, consisting of a walk-around and operation to demonstrate function and capabilities. If you want to make another video of it showing off that is up to you.

Ya need a welder as it's much easier to make stuff that's much stronger than just bolting it together. It's faster and more effective to bolts, and you can't bolt stuff on everything

Hmm, interesting sleeve hitch setup. Probably needs a stronger pivot point there unless you're just gonna use it for light work, in which case it shoul be fine.

How is it raised and lowered? With the deck handle?

biggasmowers wrote:

Ya need a welder as it's much easier to make stuff that's much stronger than just bolting it together. It's faster and more effective to bolts, and you can't bolt stuff on everything

Yeah but not in any hurry.

AllisKidD21 wrote:

Hmm, interesting sleeve hitch setup. Probably needs a stronger pivot point there unless you're just gonna use it for light work, in which case it shoul be fine.

How is it raised and lowered? With the deck handle?

I used it to plow up 1/4 mile of super packed gravel road.  Was laid 14 years ago and hasn't been touched since, meantime 4 people drive on it in a day.  Plowed through it all no problem without breaking.  I then re-spread the gravel with a scraper blade.

It's temporarily raised and lowered with a turnbuckle.  It is VERY temporary, it's only there to prove a concept to myself.  I took it off when I plowed and used weights.  I'm going to replace it with a linear actuator.  Basically the same thing, except the linear actuator is electric and not turned by an open-end wrench, and its way sturdier.  I found one with 7" of travel, rated for heavy duty, 330 lbs of downward pressure (I was using about 100 lbs of weights before so that's way better), and its $48 with free shipping.  After I get an alternator I will be purchasing that.

All the electrics will be coming after the build off, sadly, due to a lack of funds.  

Meantime, I've done a lot of stuff.  IDK where I was last time I updated the thread so here's a swamp of things lol.




Fixed the bottom corner and painted it.



If there's time I will fix the fiberglass chipping.



Painted the pulley and heat shield at @Crazy_Carl 's suggestion like 2 months ago lol.

Then I've been having fun.



I also got the exhaust working well, painted the front rims, painted the fenders and hood completely, set the vari drive, changed around clutch springs, and I'm probably missing some things but oh well.

She has gotten through everything I've thrown at her.  I've forded water past the exhaust and she made it through without spinning a tire.

And you can see it in the last picture, I installed a tethered kill switch.  Not only does it kill it when I go flying off, but it also has a button on the bottom that I can push in to kill the engine.  That will be my necessary kill switch.

Lemme know what you think!

Haha, though I saw a turnbuckle in the mix there. Got any pictures of the moldboard you were using?

I like the simple kill switch idea.  Simple to use in a hurry.  It's nice to see you putting hours on the ole girl and enjoying it.

from the chat last night, 1 more question, since your JD is most similar to drive setup to my ford its what i shold compare against for your horror fright motor, if your putting arround in 4th gear then just punch it do you feel the front end wanting to lift up? if so how intence is it? somthing you can kind feel? really feel? or dose it hapen under serten circumstances, or every time you punch it?

i honestly have been thinking on how to get a horisontal motor to work on a vertical trans because i want to know if its every thing you said or not. i have heard of vertical motor on a horisontal, maby its not to hard to do the oppoisite. i just know for me to really test it i need to keep 9" pully in front and 7" in the rear or it will throw my comparison off. belt slip and dirrent ratios cant be a factor.

JD looks mint when it's muddy!

AllisKidD21 wrote:

Haha, though I saw a turnbuckle in the mix there. Got any pictures of the moldboard you were using?

T'weren't exactly a moldboard.

Crazy_Carl wrote:

I like the simple kill switch idea.  Simple to use in a hurry.  It's nice to see you putting hours on the ole girl and enjoying it.

Thanks!  Yeah, I'm loving her!

RockeyDA wrote:

from the chat last night, 1 more question, since your JD is most similar to drive setup to my ford its what i shold compare against for your horror fright motor, if your putting arround in 4th gear then just punch it do you feel the front end wanting to lift up? if so how intence is it? somthing you can kind feel? really feel? or dose it hapen under serten circumstances, or every time you punch it?

It's actually quite a bit different.  First, I can't punch the throttle because the cable is the original cable from 50 years ago and it takes 2 hands standing off the mower to move it up.  Second, I can't exactly dump the clutch, because of the way the vari-drive works.  When the vari-drive is in the highest gear, and the clutch is almost floored but still slightly engaged, I effectively have a 3" front pulley because the vari-drive is in the lowest setting.  As I release the clutch, it takes about 6 seconds for it to fully release, and when it fully releases, I effectively have a 12" front pulley.  I can tell you that when I'm going full speed, the front tires do bounce up on bumps quite a bit.  I think that if I had no vari drive it would pick up the front tires.

SebastianAlbrecht wrote:

JD looks mint when it's muddy!

Thanks!!

Started some body work on the hood.









Probably won't be perfect, but be a ton better.  I'm hoping it won't be noticeable from like 5-6 feet.

Oh okay, it was that cultivator tooth. That'd be pretty easy to pull in the ground I would think. It'd be neat to find an actual moldboard plow for the ol' girl, then you could really put 'er to the test, haha. Might be able to find a little one somewhere, a 10" bottom would probably be about right.

Fixed the rear hole.


The off-white in the center is the patch, the rest of the white with the black edge is bare fiberglass.


Primed. There still are imperfections next to it, the hood isnt perfect, would take tons of work to get it perfect.

So i did something I've been putting off forever today. I rebuilt the steering columnn. Didn't take pictures of it in the beginning because I i forgot to, but believe me, what i found inside was bad. Took it apart and soaked it in dieselb wire brushed it all off, removed the things that may have thought about being gaskets at one point in their lives, RTVed it up, regreased it, and reassembled.





The steering is crazy awesome now. Was pretty good beforeb now its insane. Thanks to the adjustments on it, there is no play in the box whatsoevern. There is about a half a turn in the ball joints, need to replace that someday but ya know how that goes.
Also, the gear box is way overbuilt. Worm gear, thats why bumps don't turn the tire angle, 2 6-ball ball-bearings on the column, a bearing up by the wheel, multiple play adjustments, and, apart from it having a case unlike most mowers, the case is 3/8s cast aluminum. This thing is ridiculous.

Yeah those Ross boxes are neat little units for sure, always wanted to try and swap one into my ol' Case. Did you take the worm shaft out and check the bearings as well? If I'm not mistaken to have to take the cotter pin out of the star plug thing in the bottom and thread the plug out of the case.

AllisKidD21 wrote:

Yeah those Ross boxes are neat little units for sure, always wanted to try and swap one into my ol' Case. Did you take the worm shaft out and check the bearings as well? If I'm not mistaken to have to take the cotter pin out of the star plug thing in the bottom and thread the plug out of the case.

Yeah, I took it completely apart.  All the balls are in great shape.  Yeah, the bottom plug was unique.  Had to put the flat head screwdriver in sideways in the slot and turn to get it out.

I guess I'll go film a video later today before I break something.  I'd call this a partial restoration.  New engine, new tires, new front rims, new belts, new engine pulley, new engine, new paint, new seat, it's in pretty good shape.

I f@$&ed the 2300. Went into 3rd to put it in my shed, felt fine, but it didn't move. Moved the shifter and it feels like a wet noodle. This had to happen 2 weeks before the end of the build off. Will take the shifter cap off and look at it.

AAAAAAUGH!!!!

Pulled the shifter off, this arm busted loose.



Whats scary is the oil that came out.



Gonna replace the oil...twice!

Will try to find the part that broke.

To the one guy who is thinking "he could fix it with a welder" well no I couldn't. That would probably lengthen it and what not

Bummer about the shifter assembly.

To be fair if you pulled the roll pin and removed the shifter from the cup, that piece could definitely be welded back on and fixed. Pretty easy fix that way, but in your case it'd probably be easier to find a parts trans.

Eh, you probably really could fix that with a welder and a lathe.

coughcoughbuyaweldercouchcough Oh scuse me there, frog in my throat...

But really, get it nice and clean there isnt any reason it couldnt be welded. Least none I kin figir... but dont mind me Im just a white redneck in the wilds of PA.


Didja look on ebay for a replacement?

Double W Cross Ranch wrote:

To the one guy who is thinking "he could fix it with a welder" well no I couldn't.  That would probably lengthen it and what not

Did find a 2300 shifter for $70, but that's kinda ridiculous. Did find two 1200s for $80, the shifter should be the same. Gonna pick them up, might use them in a project, might part them out. Depends.

Yuck the Oil looks like 2300 screams: REBUILD ME!!!

I would now finally get me a welder and weld this thing back together, pulling the 2300 apart, cleaning it, locking it, rebuild what's junk,..