International Cub Cadet 1650

If the dipstick show oil in the cross-hatching, then she should be good to go. Also make sure when you go to try and start it you have a battery with a good charge, or it might not make very good spark and possibly won't fire.

That oil looks really fresh, what's it smell like?

I don't really care if it doesn't fire at the moment, I just want to see it turn over to prove that the engine is OK and the electrical is too.

This is the little cut wire that I was referring to. I don't quite know what these little knobs do but as you can see a wire is cut somewhere. It would seem odd that that is the issue but who knows.

Found this online, It seems to be exactly what I was looking for to help me understand my tractor a bit better. I'ts those small things like the speed control stop that get you confused. So the little knobs are the fuses still confused about them. They don't look like your average fuses?

Well Rich, the oil probably looks fresh because I just filled it up.

those fuses are actually pretty common. those fuse holders hold those little glass fuses that are usually quarter inch by 1 inch long. I’m probably wrong about the length. that’s awesome that the fuses are right on the dash. I can see why these cub cadet tractors have a cult following just like wheel horses.

So, do they unscrew out the dash or something? If those are blown I wouldn't be able to start it?

I'm pretty sure this Kohler has a 12V ignition coil so if your battery fuse is blown you're not going to have any spark.  I'm pretty sure all you have to do to check those fuses is push the cap in, turn it counterclockwise a quarter turn to release the cap or the cap may just thread on and you can unscrew it and the cap should come off to reveal the fuse.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Auk6SvKPNe0
Here's a link for you guys.
Finally got it to crank. It takes a lot of battery power to crank that monster though. If it cranks does that mean the fuses are fine? Because I sprayed ether in the carb and it still wouldn't fire. The spark plug looks fine, what else could make it not spark. I need to go find my spark tester however and see if it works.

The coil could keep it from firing, if it is chewed through or maybe the part that contacts the flywheel is bad, or it is not contacting the flywheel right. Oh and new subscriber BTW.

Get a charger on that battery.  Check for 12V on the coil on the terminal that the ignition wire is hooked to.  There's three wires that go to the coil1)ignition wire from the dash somewhere 2)spark plug wire 3)wire going to the points

I did, I charged the battery for like 18 hours.

Sounds like you might have to jump it to get some more cranking amps

Yeah. Just for the first start? then it will be able to use the battery?

IDK you'd have to charge the battery, then you have to check the specific gravity of the acid in the cells or use a load tester on it to know for sure. I'd just spend the $40 or $50 and get a new one.

Yeah I'm planning on getting 1 new battery. I have 4 tractors and one good battery would really help to go along with the two that are sorta lazy. I'm not good at all with electrical. So pretty much I check the coil with a mulitimeter to see if it's putting out 12V?

Double W Cross Ranch wrote:

The coil could keep it from firing, if it is chewed through or maybe the part that contacts the flywheel is bad, or it is not contacting the flywheel right. Oh and new subscriber BTW.

What kind of coil is it? Like a magneto? Or is it like some sort of strange points system?

muckmudd wrote:

Double W Cross Ranch wrote:

The coil could keep it from firing, if it is chewed through or maybe the part that contacts the flywheel is bad, or it is not contacting the flywheel right. Oh and new subscriber BTW.

What kind of coil is it? Like a magneto? Or is it like some sort of strange points system?

I have no clue, I've never messed with that kind of engine. That's just a symptom of that. Sorry man.

It has points on the side of the block that ground out the coil when it doesn't need spark.  They're under a little sheet metal cover, near the fuel pump and carburetor.

I'd clean and re-gap those breaker points. They should be set to 0.018"- 0.020" if I remember correctly.

Ok then. I'm not too familiar with points, In fact, iv'e never worked on them. I will see if I can find them tomorrow. I was also afraid that I was afraid that I would have to remove the entire engine to work on them because I thought that they might be on the shaft side. I am also thinking of removing the front heat shield. Its kinda just in the way and more than half of the bolts are stripped out of the aluminium or broken off. I don't really see why I need it but I will definitely keep in just in case. BTW, do heat shields need to be painted with engine enamel stuff or will regular black spray hold up?

I'd use engine part or look on the can of spray paint you have and what temperature it's rated for. These tins on air cooled engines get pretty warm but not super hot either.

Well not much happening with this ol' hunk of metal. Sanded down the points and she has spark now. Still doesn't run. I jumped it off my truck's battery. The ACR seems stuck shut because the compression seems very high. I really don't know what's going on with this thing and ANY help would be appreciated.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4G_MSD5j-9s
This is a short clip to show what's happening. And I think it is just vaporized gas not exhaust that's coming out the carb.

Points timing off?  After sanding the points the gap may be a few thousands larger.  There should be a screw that you can narrow that gap a little.  There should be a procedure for the engine to adjust that to so many thousands...

Maybe even check flywheel key if that is all good.

Have you checked if the intake or exhaust valve is stuck open? That could stop it from firing.