[Complete] MTD Rasentrac B10 Garden and Offroad Mower [2018 Build-Off Entry}

Double W Cross Ranch wrote:

Awesome, looks much meaner with the bigger tires!

Thanks Bud! I like that Look too!!!

Looking great with the new fronts! ATV tread rears will look good too.

Don't put these tires on the rear. They are awful.

MatthewD wrote:

Looking great with the new fronts! ATV tread rears will look good too.

Thanks!!

muckmudd wrote:

Don't put these tires on the rear. They are awful.

Any better recommendations that are cheap?

DID A HEADLIGHT UPGRADE TO MTD!

Decided, that the stock lighting is JUNK! Even on full throttle my phone's flashlight is brighter than this crap that burns 40 watts! So I stole 2 of my 4 LED Headlights (18W) I bought originally for MUD MURRAY 4X4 and MURRAY WIDEBODY, and installed them. Just realized that they flicker if I run them, off the light coil. So I disconnected the light coil from the ignition lock and connected that wire to the always hot wire that runs to my 12V socket and to the Battery. NOW it's so bright, that you feel like U drive a Car! Just pretty bad, that the lighting drains the battery too fast!





Can I just feed the light coil onto the charging wire into the battery? Or do I burn up the coil?

I really like these LED pods too. They make it so easy to drive at night.

Is your coil charging currently? Could it keep up with your old lights?Those lights should only draw 3 amps which isn’t much. What’s your charging circuit rated for?

you should be able to hook the (+) DC side of the charge wire, the (+) side of the battery, and the (+) feed for the lights all together, they are on my tractors.

Need a diode in the light wire also, just like the charging wire. The wire for the lights is AC current and the diode will make it DC and prevent feedback into the stator when motor is off. Adding the light wire to the charging wire, done the correct way will give you more amps for charging too.

Crazy_Carl wrote:

I really like these LED pods too.  They make it so easy to drive at night.

Is your coil charging currently? Could it keep up with your old lights?Those lights should only draw 3 amps which isn’t much.  What’s your charging circuit rated for?

you should be able to hook the (+) DC side of the charge wire, the (+) side of the battery, and the (+) feed for the lights all together, they are on my tractors.

The stock lights were 2 12V light bulbs with 21watts. I connected the LEDs to the ,,alternator" on full throttle they were as bright as directrly connected to the battery, just they flicker. And when I drive on high RPMs and you shut down the Engine, and want to electric start it, it isn;t be able to turn it over. the Battery is also Junk, you charged it 100% and after 24 hours you try to start it up, and after 5 seconds slow turning over the engine, the starter can't turn it over again. Probably have to get a bigger battery, and if I can figure a way to connect charging alternator and light alternator together, I will do it. With such a small batttery like now, the battery probably gets cooked, cuz too much input, and lights off, cuz I dont need light when I mow. I connected my voltmeter to the battery, and saw when the ENgine runs, I have around 14,5v on the battery, engine shut down just 12,5v, so the charging system works.

prancstaman wrote:

Need a diode in the light wire also, just like the charging wire. The wire for the lights is AC current and the diode will make it DC and prevent feedback into the stator when motor is off. Adding the light wire to the charging wire, done the correct way will give you more amps for charging too.

Sweet! Is that diode the small box next to the starter solenoid under the fender? I have a spare so if it is it, I can build the double power charger without buying stuff.

muckmudd wrote:

Don't put these tires on the rear. They are awful.

Any better recommendations that are cheap?[/quote]
Cut turfs lol.

The box next to the starter solenoid is probably a regulator. Look at the wire coming from the engine and going to this box, should be the charging wire with the diode. The diode is usually under heat shrink wrap on the wire with a bulge in the heat shrink, the bulge is the diode.  It should be before the box. You can connect the light wire with the diode after the diode of the charging wire and before the box. If you can't find the diode, then hook up a meter to the wire coming from the engine and before the box to see if it is AC or DC current. If it is AC current, then the regulator box has the diode inside of it. Then you would need 2 diodes, one on the charging wire , then one on the light wire and after the charging wire diode, but before the box, would be the connection for the light wire.
If the wire coming from the engine to the box is DC, then just add 1 diode to the light wire and connect it to the charging wire anywhere before the box.

Do it in this order, if it makes sense. You have to add the diode(s), they prevent the feed back into the stator when the engine is not running, and separates the input voltage going into the regulator box by keeping the voltage from shorting out by going back into the stator while running too. You are basically making a rectifier from the 2 wires(charging and light) wire before it is doing anything like going into the box of just straight to the battery.

Oh, the LED lights was flickering because the alternator wire was only a half wave of voltage, it pulses with power from stator output. The LED's are diodes themselves and senses the pulses from the stator output. This is normal for LED lights. Which makes sense to hook LED lights straight to the battery power instead of the light wire or charging wire. The battery power does not pulse.

muckmudd wrote:

muckmudd wrote:

Don't put these tires on the rear. They are awful.

Any better recommendations that are cheap?

Cut turfs lol.[/quote]

Just 1 Problem with that: IT LOOKS      

prancstaman wrote:

The box next to the starter solenoid is probably a regulator. Look at the wire coming from the engine and going to this box, should be the charging wire with the diode. The diode is usually under heat shrink wrap on the wire with a bulge in the heat shrink, the bulge is the diode.  It should be before the box. You can connect the light wire with the diode after the diode of the charging wire and before the box. If you can't find the diode, then hook up a meter to the wire coming from the engine and before the box to see if it is AC or DC current. If it is AC current, then the regulator box has the diode inside of it. Then you would need 2 diodes, one on the charging wire , then one on the light wire and after the charging wire diode, but before the box, would be the connection for the light wire.
If the wire coming from the engine to the box is DC, then just add 1 diode to the light wire and connect it to the charging wire anywhere before the box.

Do it in this order, if it makes sense. You have to add the diode(s), they prevent the feed back into the stator when the engine is not running, and separates the input voltage going into the regulator box by keeping the voltage from shorting out by going back into the stator while running too. You are basically making a rectifier from the 2 wires(charging and light) wire before it is doing anything like going into the box of just straight to the battery.

prancstaman wrote:

Oh, the LED lights was flickering because the alternator wire was only a half wave of voltage, it pulses with power from stator output. The LED's are diodes themselves and senses the pulses from the stator output. This is normal for LED lights. Which makes sense to hook LED lights straight to the battery power instead of the light wire or charging wire. The battery power does not pulse.

THANK YOU!!!

That's a good idea.  You should mount that concrete weight on the back of this once you get the plow on to give you some traction.

Crazy_Carl wrote:

That's a good idea.  You should mount that concrete weight on the back of this once you get the plow on to give you some traction.

That's a really good idea, I hadn't thought about!

A Goodie for my MTD!

Bought it 1/3 cheaper than the other sellers wanted.

Came shipped to me in a big box:



and well packed too! Pretty nice!



What is it?

A SNOW PLOW FOR MTD!!!!





It's in a bit rough shape, few things are bent, the cotter pins were nails, ... but I can work with that.

Have to build a mounting plate to connect it to the frame, once I feel myself way better!

Nice, I bet that will be useful come winter time.

Nice!! I like the mount, so you can mount it on the front of the mower. I have one where it mounts underneath which means you have to lay on the ground to disconnect it.

MatthewD wrote:

Nice, I bet that will be useful come winter time.

in other seasons too.

prancstaman wrote:

Nice!! I like the mount, so you can mount it on the front of the mower. I have one where it mounts underneath which means you have to lay on the ground to disconnect it.

looked for Sheet metal to make the mounting plate, but I dont have anything lying around

Hopefully I can let that mount attached 24/7 just have to pull the pins

GET TO WORK!

Crazy_Carl wrote:

GET TO WORK!

Will probably remove the rust from the Plow on saturday, and order 18" AGs for it!

I just realized, that it's too much work to build the plow n stuff til the Build-Off ends. And unfortunately i'm really busy rn, so MTD does all the Things that are needed to qualify as DONE, so I call MTD FINISHED with this Vid!

I'll mark it for now like the others.  Good job!