[Complete] MTD Rasentrac B10 Garden and Offroad Mower [2018 Build-Off Entry}

I've seen dual throttle setups on a few different tractors, but none that use the governor for both controls like yours does. Pretty neat setup!

AllisKidD21 wrote:

I've seen dual throttle setups on a few different tractors, but none that use the governor for both controls like yours does. Pretty neat setup!

Same. All i had seen were with the governor pulling foot throttle, and i do'nt want to do this, because my engine wo'nt last as long

Great job!! Alot of thought and work is going into this project, should last a very long time. I got a duel throttle setup on my plow, with the hand lever and foot pedal, but my foot pedal pushes on the governor arm and bypasses it. I tried to use a stop on the gas pedal but the motor still revs too high under no load. The motor knocks a little now. You are right on making the motor last by keeping the governor hooked up on both. Now I got to rebuild my motor now before it blows.

prancstaman wrote:

Great job!! Alot of thought and work is going into this project, should last a very long time. I got a duel throttle setup on my plow, with the hand lever and foot pedal, but my foot pedal pushes on the governor arm and bypasses it. I tried to use a stop on the gas pedal but the motor still revs too high under no load. The motor knocks a little now. You are right on making the motor last by keeping the governor hooked up on both. Now I got to rebuild my motor now before it blows.

good choice to rebuild. thanks! i hate bypassing the gov. Also on idle the mower still sounds best

Yeah don't bypass it, whatever you do. If you want more RPMs, you have to open the engine up and remove the whole thing.

Now to adapt to an opposed... I think it can be done. i've done the foot to gov arm with my other tractors.

just read through your build, I love it, I love how much though you put into everything before you do it.

Double W Cross Ranch wrote:

Yeah don't bypass it, whatever you do. If you want more RPMs, you have to open the engine up and remove the whole thing.

Until now, i mostly used my mower, while the engine was idling, and it has enough power for me.

MightyRaze wrote:

Now to adapt to an opposed...  I think it can be done.  i've done the foot to gov arm with my other tractors.

I hate foot throttle to gov arm. You should try, to make my setup work on your oppy for Kal-El

Creepycrawler wrote:

just read through your build, I love it, I love how much though you put into everything before you do it.

Thanks! I like it, to do things right, instead of making them wrong, and need to redo them few times. Mostly the best Ideas are xoming while sleeping or at school, if the lesson is boring

Preparing for first test drive

I want to carry something with my mower, while doing some trail riding. I have some space in the rear, but need to remove it fast.

I made a bracket out of some steel, i found in the garage



It connects the small rack from my chinese ATV to the rear of my mower



to make it fast-removable, i used the star-knobs from mower handlebars



And my rear belt is hitting the transaxle shifter rod that comes out of the trans, so i need to put in a idler pulley, to fix that problem (those are from honda mowers)



I machined a brass spacer between the frame and the idler pulley



now i can do the 1st test drive soon

Wow that idler is pretty cool! Never seen one like it!  I like the look of that rack too!

Double W Cross Ranch wrote:

Wow that idler is pretty cool! Never seen one like it!  I like the look of that rack too!

You can find them on the drive belt of the rear discharge hydro honda mowers. I also like my rack. But i ca'nt put heavy stuff on it, because it will collapse

That's looks like a flat idler and in that position wouldn't you want to use a "V" shaped idler?

Here's an idea to make your rack support more weight while keeping it easily removable.  You can utilize the rear bagger bracket that is already on your tractor.  Just weld pipes to the bracket you made that line up with the holes in your bagger bracket.  The pipes should be long enough to be inserted into the bagger bracket and you can weld big washers on those pipes that will sit on the bagger bracket and support a bigger load on that rack nicely.  When it comes time to remove the rack, the pipes should slide right out.  It's kinda like stake pockets on a flat bed truck.  The rack looks good on there by the way.

Crazy_Carl wrote:

That's looks like a flat idler and in that position wouldn't you want to use a "V" shaped idler?

Here's an idea to make your rack support more weight while keeping it easily removable.  You can utilize the rear bagger bracket that is already on your tractor.  Just weld pipes to the bracket you made that line up with the holes in your bagger bracket.  The pipes should be long enough to be inserted into the bagger bracket and you can weld big washers on those pipes that will sit on the bagger bracket and support a bigger load on that rack nicely.  When it comes time to remove the rack, the pipes should slide right out.  It's kinda like stake pockets on a flat bed truck.  The rack looks good on there by the way.

V-shaped ones are too big, and on those Hondas they use them the same way.


The Rear Rack Idea is very good! Right now I have no steel pipe, and need to use it now like it is. Once i get some, I can make that sturdier.

FIRST TEST DRIVE

After the complete Winter and Spring, working on my Mower, to get it running, now, I finally can do the first test drive.

To do the 1st test drive, i needed to fix the wiring, i connected the socket wrong, and the starter solenoid   were dead.

I went with my mower and a garden trailer to the Supermarket, and bought some food.



there I realized, i have a bit of belt slippage, so i need to drive slow uphill, otherwise my belt is burning.



After hauling the food home, i went to the Forest to make my 1st Offroad trail ride



Here it has'nt rained for 2 or 3 Weeks, and we do'nt have any mud hole in the forest right now  I only found that tiny mud hole, and tried a mud burnout, but belt slipped.



But the Engine still has enough power, to drive around while Idling.



And i made a Top Speed Run!



Right Now i'm running worn 18x9,5x8 turfs on the rear, but in mud, i ca'nt spin the tires. Belt is burning.

Then i prepared everything for mens day, we bought Beer with the mower,....



and on mens day i drove it on high speed through our village, still handling good, the steering has not much slop in it, but on offroad, it do'nt does very good.



I think, you want to know, how fast my mower was on Top speed? I planned to reach 30 KMH fullspeed, and i got 31 KMH governed on fullspeed. pretty fast, only with a trailer a bit dangerous, the trailer wants to break out if you drive too fast through curves.

“mens day” Does that involve beer and chainsaws? Sounds like a solid time for a successful test drive.

How fast does it go?

biggasmowers wrote:

How fast does it go?

He said that at the bottom. Looks good Sebastian! Hopefully you get the belt slippage figured out.

Haha, bet you got some funny looks when you went shopping in your tractor! She looks pretty cool in the sunshine. Belt problems are always a pain, as I mentioned in the chat perhaps you could put on a bigger engine pulley which would increase the surface area for the belt to grip and therefore it wouldn't slip as much.

Crazy_Carl wrote:

“mens day” Does that involve beer and chainsaws?  Sounds like a solid time for a successful test drive.

I needed the Chainsaw to cut some firewood, because we wanted to make a fire, and were too lazy to do this by hand.

On Mens Day, the Men in G are walking with a trailer full of beer through the village, or they walk from restaurant to restaurant, and drink their beers there. ANd it's a holiday. A Shame, it is'nt also in the US!

biggasmowers wrote:

How fast does it go?

30 KMH are 19 MPH.

AllisKidD21 wrote:

biggasmowers wrote:

How fast does it go?

He said that at the bottom. Looks good Sebastian! Hopefully you get the belt slippage figured out.

Thanks. I'm working on a spring loaded idler to get rid of the belt slippage

MatthewD wrote:

Haha, bet you got some funny looks when you went shopping in your tractor! She looks pretty cool in the sunshine. Belt problems are always a pain, as I mentioned in the chat perhaps you could put on a bigger engine pulley which would increase the surface area for the belt to grip and therefore it wouldn't slip as much.

If i put an bigger engine pulley on, the mower is too fast, and on the rear i ca'nt use a bigger pulley on the trans. Anyone laughed while i drove through the village with the trailer full of food.

I had issues with my trans belt slipping on mine. On my rebuild, I put 2 little springs on the trans belt tensioner to help with the slippage. 31 KMH =19 MPH, pretty good speed. I got mine to 9 MPH. Half of your speed with the big stock pulley on the transaxle, but I geared mine to go real slow though. My low/low speed is less then 1 MPH on the gps at full rpm with the governor. The ratio for low/low on mine is well over the 300 to 1.

Need to rename it "BEER RUN", LOL.

Haha, that must have been a sight to see!

prancstaman wrote:

I had issues with my trans belt slipping on mine. On my rebuild, I put 2 little springs on the trans belt tensioner to help with the slippage.  31 KMH =19 MPH, pretty good speed. I got mine to 9 MPH. Half of your speed with the big stock pulley on the transaxle, but I geared mine to go real slow though. My low/low speed is less then 1 MPH on the gps at full rpm with the governor. The ratio for low/low on mine is well over the 300 to 1.

Need to rename it "BEER RUN", LOL.

With the rear pulley and the rear belt, i have no problems. Went today in the wooda again, with my experiment, id din much better than before.

Double W Cross Ranch wrote:

Haha, that must have been a sight to see!

Yep! In G no one romps his mower in the forest or rides with him on the street.

Belt Issues trying to fix

I discovered, the belt is slipping very good on the engine pulley, and put the mower on the  pit today, to remove the pulley.



I took a closer look to the both parts, and saw, that the Belt, is'nt running on the sides of the pulley, only on the inner edges of the engine pulley.



So i took the pulley in my Vise, and pressed the sides closer together, and rotated the pulley. The Belt is the right size. And my Dad gave me something, that i should press against the belt while it is running, that stuff were called rosin in the translator. He said it prevents belt slipping.  

Then i did a test drive, and that both worked very well. With the rosin on the belt, you can hear the belt now squeaking when it is slipping, and uphill and on the street and the trails id did well. better than before.

Still a bit of slippage, but if i do'nt romp it too hard, i can live with that. THe time will tell, if it works over long term, or only about the few days.

That's good progress.  Sounds like time will tell how it holds up.

Sweet oil change pit by the way.  I'm jealous.

Possibly running a 1/2 inch belt where a 5/8 belt should be used?