Murray GT - Tractooor

Cheers mates!

Now, first things first - i will try to make out of my murray as an utility and beer tractor, like i mentioned in my "newbie" post.
- this vid probably was the reason why i bought a Murray.

Tractoor is completly "torn down" so i slowly start to build it up again to have a utility tractor \ beer transport.
Just finished my gearbox cleaning, all the gears are in a mint condition...pure "oosomness"!


Waiting for some bearings and i still havent found a good lubrication idea...W90 is on my mind...need to do more research.


¤%/"%/&!¤%¤#" the grease what was in there...F*** again...but its not anymore...although the grease was in a 90% condition after 23 years...

How about something like this? I do hear that oil like this can be a little too thick at cold temperatures to shift well though.   This is what I put in the rear end of my wheel horse.  The Wheel Horse book recomends 140 weight.   I’d probably run a 90 weight if I were you.  

thanks for the advice...
Right now i have some Bardahl transmission oil in my garage, left over from my last car (land rover Discovery 1).
One forum, cant find the link, said that there must be 80% grease and 20% some thick oli in...cause of the speed it should\can handle...cause im new on this, then everything is ok for me...

one of my thoughts is, if i ever have to open the gearbox again, i dont wanna see the "butter" anymore inside, if i wanna repair anything, then some breake cleaner and done...also, today the olis have gotten very very good and relayable.

I'm pretty sure that most everyone here prefers oil and not grease for the reasons you just said. Old grease gets really thick, ends up in the voids in the case and not on the gears and bearings. I'm just not sure what weight gear oil most people use here.

Many of us run 80-90.

I prefer oil 'cuz it gets flung around and covers everything better than grease would. Easier to clean it out and replace as well.

the scale is going for the oil thanks mates. ill check someday what i have in my garage...

just for Goolge and myself:
2x 780050 BALL BEARING - GBC 1641-RS
1x 780119 BALL BEARING - TSB 6203-2RS
2x 780168 Needle Bearing - BCE1412B
2x 780151 Needle Bearing - BCE1010
1x 780152 Needle Bearing - BCE1012
**pain in the A** to find the real bearing\needle numbers not the manufacturers...

Thats a clean 820! Good luck and welcome the the forum!

I also run 80w-90 gear oil in my mst 205( that i just tore up by downshifting hard) and it never got above warm after running for an hour or two in mud or on trails and shifted fine in 3 degree weather. BUT if its designed for grease i generally use grease with a bit of oil in it so the oil does not leak through the axle seals and sling gunk all over the inside of the fenders.

biggasmowers wrote:

so the oil does not leak through the axle seals and sling gunk all over the inside of the fenders.

But if you vent the transaxle? put a breather on it, with a hose and fuel filter? then with a good seal it should not leak. there wont be any pressure differences cause of heat or climate...and driving.

Yes agreed, but i dont vent my mower since the last peerless 700 gearbox i vented went under water on my last mudding mower and got water in it even tho i had the vent tube on the back of my seat. i get into some pretty deep stuff

That is some deep muck!  I don't see an easy way to keep that from happening other than stay out of deep water?  At least maybe put a filter on the end, but that only cleans the water as it goes down.  

That's a nice looking trans, duuds!

i wont be going into deep water, not so deep...  more utility...but that means sometimes small kind of mudding.
Also how did you not get water into your engine if you get water to the height of your seat? snorkel?

Yep, snorkel. Although they are a bit challenging to build for opposed twins(that's what you have right?). It's kinda hard to adapt them to the carb just because of how close the bolts are.Be easy if you turned an adapter out of aluminum on a lathe.

Well, it was pretty fun on how i managed to not drown my engine, ( but i did fully submerge it multiple time while running )( never caused any issues after i got the cylinders dried out and the card clean lol) because of my 52 inch rear end width and mud lites i could get enough momentum to hydroplane the front tires on top of the water, and the rear would get fully submerged and my butt as well. I did also have a snorkel but it was just to protect the air filter from mud and junk getting on the cone .Heres what it looked like before i broke the tranny again

That thing looks pretty sweet biggas

Maybe you should wear those fisherman waders do go in the deep water..

Naw i enjoy creek water going up to my waist. i have had fish end up caught in my console lol

biggasmowers wrote:

Well, it was pretty fun on how i managed to not drown my engine, ( but i did fully submerge it multiple time while running )( never caused any issues after i got the cylinders dried out and the card clean lol) because of my 52 inch rear end width and mud lites i could get enough momentum to hydroplane the front tires on top of the water, and the rear would get fully submerged and my butt as well. I did also have a snorkel but it was just to protect the air filter from mud and junk getting on the cone .Heres what it looked like before i broke the tranny again

LOL, I thought you hated hydros!!!

lol

it was a hydro , but i put a live axle with a 700 in it and it went like 50 mph and did awesome burn outs.

Looks an awful lot like a hydro's brake pedal...wouldn't work with a geared tranny.

Its the clutch pedal, like i said it was a hydro but in this pic it is a live axle and gearbox .