“Ol’ Red” 1979 Wheel Horse C-81

Dang Carl,
Ol Red Is looking good.

Curious what the new width is for Ol' Red in the rear?

@MightyRaze 40 inches, I thinking about using a set of .75" thick wheel spacers instead of my 1.5" to bring that down to 38.5"

@Crazy_Carl ah man that looks good.

Crazy_Carl wrote:

@MightyRaze 40 inches, I thinking about using a set of .75" thick wheel spacers instead of my 1.5" to bring that down to 38.5"

Just slap a "wide load" sticker on the back.

@TheBeal i like that idea because I think my wards rear end is somewhere between 40" or 41".

Well My girlfriend and I took Ol' Red out riding finally.  I do have some footage on facebook but here are pictures.


Ol' Red was accidentally backed into a tree on a hill by an experienced operator but the seat was just bent so I bent it back.

Swamp witches did great.  I did get stuck at the greasy top of my hill climb but I was able to get out of it without winching or pushing.

Some things I need to improve before TTC 2020 are the turning radius. I want to try removing the wheel spacers to improve that.  My clutch situation isn't great. It doesn't release enough so I miss shifts.  I think belt guides and a softer spring will help this. Maybe I could strengthen the dash to help keep the hood shut and lose the bungee cord but it works for now.

Glad to see you getting out Carl! No tires will win against grease on hard pack. And i have executioners.

Are you locked or unlocked? That makes the biggest difference in turning radius.

I’m locked and I have to be for group rides, safety on hills, and per TTC rules.

Today I took the rear tires in 3/4" on each side.  If it doesn't help the turning radius there's nothing wrong with being a little narrower to get through tight spots.

I'm looking for input on my next problem.  I'm experimenting with a belt guide to help the clutch release.  There was an important belt guide built into the factory clutch cover that I had to cut off to accomadate the bigger engine pulley.  So I'm thinking about putting a small adjustable angle iron belt guide in this location to help the problem.  I want to test it during the day tomorrow.

I bet that guide would help a lot to relieve belt tension on the pulley. Keep it from dangling low causing it to catch.

Yes it did help quite a lot.  I used @BlakeGroce 's technique using a screwdriver as a belt guide while someone is pushing in the clutch and it makes a huge difference.  I made an angle iron belt guide bolted to the engine with a socket head cap screw.  I'm also using a lighter clutch spring.  It makes shifting from the gears at a standstill a lot easier.  Up shifting from 2nd to third there is still a little bit of grinding

Pulling on the steering wheel is causing the dash to separate where it's not bolted together very well.  I added a little weld.  It should help the hood stay closed.  I also rigged up something with some bolts in existing body mount holes to make an official spot for the hood bungee to hook to.  Rig drives a lot better and it's pretty much ready for TTC2020, but with time on my hands I'm sure I'll do more maintenance and maybe some tweaks here and there.

Not sure how you would feel about hole or if you even have room for one.   I know you want to keep it looking mostly original.  This is a solution I did on my Li'l Red to keep the hood shut.

a hood pin or two could work I just can’t bring myself to drill the hood

I completely understand!

Crazy_Carl wrote:

I’m locked and I have to be for group rides, safety on hills, and per TTC rules.

theres a locked rear end rule for the TTC?

I believe so, we require it on our group rides with the Ohio off road mowers group too. An open diff is just too dangerous on steep hills.

I've never really had a problem with my latch?. I did replace the rod because it was wore out. But then again I have a short frame so maybe the chassis doesnt flex as much?? But I also dont have the original mount for the hood because someone broke it so I made my own. I dont feel bad about modifying mine because it has the worst of the worst parts on it lol.

@Crazy_Carl must be a new rule this year at the TTC. @redzz02 be the one to ask. I seen Doug's beast got lock. Here's a style of hood latch you might like. Came stock on my Jacobsen Homelite.

That style is my favorite. Later model wheel horses like my C-125 come like that from the factory. With my particular dash coupled with those latches being really expensive I'm don't think that's the right option.

@Crazy_Carl oh I've never looked up how but h they cost but hey at least it would still be kinda true to wheel horse though. My wards has a built it hood latching under the hood. Theres a leaver on the dash which is unique.

I like that under hood latch idea. That's a good way to hide a non-oem latch.

Over the weekend i did a lot of good testing with Ol' Red.  The clutch spring is a tad light.  I might want to find a stiffer one to use for hardcore stuff.  The new belt guide really helps the tractor shift.  If I do it just right I can shift on the fly from 2nd to third with very minimal grinding, but I'm still practicing.  One issue I am having that I can't figure out is the belt twisting and turning over on the lower idler every now and then.  Its really annoying and maybe it has something to do with the lighter clutch spring I'm using.  I do want this to happen during TTC because it robs powers and builds heat.

What the?!


Don't worry I just picked up these dirt cheap turfs to use Ol' Red for spring clean up work without tearing up the lawn.  Plus I like the OEM colored rims.  I thought about putting the rear rack on but I think it will interfere with my trailer.  If I have a huge yard someday I def want a trailer with a longer tongue.

HAHA.... still looks great even with turfs.

I like to keep a set of turfs on rims for when I wanna drift around.