Great tractor to start modding! One thing I will say though, those stamped frames can flex so you could weld in some braces (esp. at the rear) to help strengthen the frame.
I'm not sure I would call that a "stamped frame"....
MatthewD Veteran Member
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Age : 23 Join date : 2014-11-16 Points : 5754 Posts : 1993 Location : Northern Ireland
I'd try and find an old Arc welder. But a Flux Core wouldn't be too bad either, either way you could work outside without worrying about shielding gas blowing away.
"This'll either wake you up or put you to sleep forever!"- Red Green "Whatever you do you should do right, even if it's something wrong." - Hank Hill
I took the fuel tank (suprisingly clean) and the carb off (smelled like furniture varnish inside the carb), decided to soak the carb in pb blaster overnight to loosen up all the screw/bolts so I could do a full cleaning. I need to get a new gasket for the space between the carb and the intake tube (not sure what that pipe is called), and I need to rewire the whole thing with a toggle and push button start. I had a decent battery to switch out the bad one with, and I drained the oil (looked like it had never been changed before, but it flowed good), refilled with fresh oil. hopefully by my next "weekend" (mon/tues, I work retail at home depot) I will be able to turn it over. The coil looks like rusted poop, but I will give it a chance before I buy another one (the spacing was non-existent).
I think I will make this a utility tractor, not going to go too much bigger with the tires but definitely want to go up some since there isn't a whole lot of ground clearance. I may also swap the pulleys, but I will have to figure out how to put a gas pedal on it to replace the turtle to rabbit lever.
I know I will be able to find ideas on this forum since y'all have "been there, done that" many times over with your builds!
jimtolken Member
Age : 46 Join date : 2017-02-01 Points : 2896 Posts : 35 Location : Spartanburg, SC
Those wires should be coming from the stator, which is under the flywheel. One is used to charge the battery while the engine is running, and the other is usually used to run the headlights. One should be red and one should be black. If I recall correctly, haha.
"This'll either wake you up or put you to sleep forever!"- Red Green "Whatever you do you should do right, even if it's something wrong." - Hank Hill
Yellow one with the bump is your charging wire. You need that diode (bump) so your battery does not discharge while turned off. It should go to the battery side on your starter relay (solenoid). The black one with it is typically your "lights" hot wire. You can use it, or you can go to battery. Just be cautious how much draw your lights may pull if you use them. They could use power faster than the charging. Personally I am running from the battery for lights and have that wire currently terminated on some of my rigs.
PROJECTS: Marshal ........................93 Craftsman GT6000 Red Bandit ...................72 Wheel Horse Raider 12 Dirty Rat........................77 Sears Suburban Bowser...........................01 Murray Widebody LT The Green Machine ....1990 Craftsman II GT18 Other projects
Thanks guys, I won't be using the lights (not yet anyway) so I will run it to the positive side of the starter solenoid also. I'll do another video when I get it wired up and attempt to crank it up!
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