Mr.Modified's Simplicity Adventure Edition [2016 Build-Off Finalist]

I'd like to check how far I can actually get with a full tank but it's tough when mostly I'm in small areas driving slow. Not the best test for mpg that way.

Hood repainted and rack bolted back on. Air box still off, that goes on next, foam just came in the mail.


Spare belts and spark plugs. Belt numbers labeled on the belt cover. Under hood light and 1/4" nuts welded on to hold power wire for the light.


The light is wired to the dash light, so at night the whole under hood area has a red glow. Now I can make carb adjustments or check the alternator belt and things up front without having to hold a flash light. If more light is needed for an extended night repair operation, just pop off the red cover.

Looks good, I really like the use of underhood dead space for storage!

Agreed! Seems like a great place for smaller stuff like that.

Thanks. At least you always know it's there instead of wondering if you have everything with you in a bag. At some point I need to make a box for tools to fit in. At least stuff to change belts and things like that. The clutch belt you can actually swap by hand when the engine pulley guard isn't in place. Seems like it works just as well without the guard anyway. And now with the jackshaft brake, if it starts dragging or spinning a bit in neutral, you can stop it with the brake.

Nice! That light under the hood is a great addition, makes checking everything much easier in the dark and at low light when your shadow could block out the sunlight.

Thanks, should help a lot. Started on the firewood trailer for haspin. Actually someone else did the welding on this part, I just cut the pieces to fit. They haven't been welding for long and it turned out pretty good.

Is this the floor? Are you thinking about putting steal mesh down over it?

Those welds look sturdy!

I was thinking of just leaving it open like that, the logs will lay across it anyway. Steel mesh would be a good idea if I had any. Think i'm all out of it. I'm going to make a separate thread for the trailer project because later on it will get more involved when I build the enclosed box trailer for the simplicity.

Worked a good 10 hours or more today on the Simplicity. First I cut out the foam for the air box and bolted the air box back to the hood.


Brakes are back on and flipped rib side out to prevent rocks getting stuck between the ribs.


Clutch brake is completed except paint and adjusting everything. Hopefully that will help with shifting.


Alternator belt tensioner revised from spring loaded to threaded adjustment. Also needs painting.


Crank case vent and fuel tank vent lines now ran to a collection point just under the hood. Drain hose not yet
installed in this picture. Previously both were rigged up temporarily. Decided it wasn't necessary to run these as high as the top
of the snorkel, if your that deep, the situation is bad anyway. The drain line will end up in the engine oil drain tube.


Cleaned up a lot of grease under the hood and started installing new fuel lines. The old ones are hard as a brick. Don't think
what I was using was meant for fuel use. What I'm using now may be just as bad later, since I bought the cheap stuff, but it will work for now anyway.
I can always replace it.


Making serious progress now, almost ready for Haspin 2018!

To Do List...

-Clean out float bowl, new fuel lines and filter -90% Done
-Change oil, check tires, grease, check for loose bolts
-Mill Cylinder head, clean carbon, new gasket
-Clutch disengage pin for starting?
-Put together a tool kit and get spare parts together
-Brake bands, flip over to smooth side to prevent rocks building up, smooth sharp edges on clamps -DONE
-Air box, new foam shape and screen to hold foam in place -DONE
-Clutch brake, install/fab -DONE
-Alternator switch replace, check all switches -DONE
-Alternator belt tensioner, switch from spring to threaded adjustment -DONE
-Hood rack, paint and install -DONE
-Under hood light, install -DONE

I like that belt tensioner way better. That’s just how the tensioners are set up for the refridgeration compressors under the hoods the on some diesel trucks at work.

Looks good. I have used that clear stuff before. I wouldn't run it too long, but it should get you past haspin. It will harden and turn yellow if it is the same stuff.

Thanks. The fuel line I put on this time was being sold as actual fuel line on amazon, I just don't know how good it is. What I used before was I guess like pvc line or something from tractor supply. Ok for chemicals and things but not gassoline. Even that held up since I put it on two years ago. It was hard but didn't have any leaks. I just don't want to mess around at haspin.

The alternator belt setup should be way better now. It would jump around a lot with the spring. One issue is that the belt alignment is off quite a bit. So we'll have to see if it eats up another belt this time. Haspin 2016 it lasted a few days and then it separated. Since I don't have electric start, it's not something that will stop me from moving, just a pain if I need the winch or want lights for a long time.

Looks good mr.mod! That clutch brake looks like it should work pretty well.

Where'd you buy that brake band?

Thanks alliskid, hopefully yeah.

The brake band is just a serpentine belt from a car just like my wheel brakes. On the clutch brake I drilled holes through it to hook the band to the metal parts. On my wheel brakes I didn't trust that because I thought the belt may rip apart if I pulled on it too hard, so as you can see in previous pics, I have my regular brakes looped and then clamped together. This way there's no weakening the band by putting holes through it.

For the clutch brake, it's only meant to snuff the jackshaft for a second to shift, not meant as a normal brake. So it's less critical that it holds together. I think it should be fine, won't be that much pressure on it compared with the normal wheel brakes.

You can buy various size go kart bands with a real lining on BMIkarts.com and probably other sites too. I think they have 4" and 5"? Maybe more sized too.

Nice progress. I used to use that clear plastic hose for fuel line, it seems alright when you install it but when you flow fuel through it, it becomes yellow and hard. I prefer the braided clear hose, seems to stand up to fuel well but does go slightly yellow after a time.

What would it take to get the alternator into proper alignment?

Tygon fuel line is nice stuff, but about 3 times the price. I used that on the GTR 4 Zero. It's like a yellow color to begin with. Cool looking stuff.

The alternator would need to be moved towards the center of the tractor about 1/2" maybe? So it would mean major alteration of the brackets.
I believe the engine to jack shaft relationship is also off a tad in the other direction, but not as bad. So much for eye balling it...

Alternator bracket area masked off for repainting. The prep work continues...

mr.modified wrote:

Thanks. The fuel line I put on this time was being sold as actual fuel line on amazon, I just don't know how good it is. What I used before was I guess like pvc line or something from tractor supply. Ok for chemicals and things but not gassoline. Even that held up since I put it on two years ago. It was hard but didn't have any leaks. I just don't want to mess around at haspin.

The alternator belt setup should be way better now. It would jump around a lot with the spring. One issue is that the belt alignment is off quite a bit. So we'll have to see if it eats up another belt this time. Haspin 2016 it lasted a few days and then it separated. Since I don't have electric start, it's not something that will stop me from moving, just a pain if I need the winch or want lights for a long time.

Good deal if it is actual fuel line and none of that soft irrigation junk. Updates look good!

Said fuel line but you get what you pay for lol.
Thanks!

I got some "Blue" transparent that I am giving a try.

My old 1987 ford tempo horn was making a sound like a raspy duck. I assumed it got some water in it at the 2016 haspin and somehow messed it up inside even though I had a drain hole drilled at the lowest point. So I took it off. Found out it's all rusted out inside. Got a new horn and had to reuse part of the old bracket. Got that all bolted together and wired up. Now it sounds good again. Aimed the new horn down to keep water out and keep the noise down just a little.

Also fixed the throttle cable so it's better secured. Before if was attached to the old horn.

The cylinder head from the parts engine I picked up last weekend


Bolted down to the mill for some material removal


Just after making the final pass. Removed about .075" a little bit more than a head gasket thickness. Still has plenty of room for the valves to open.
They don't even hit at full lift without a gasket. I measured a new uncrushed gasket at about .065"
Couple sand holes in the casting are visible. It's been my experience so far that a few of them always show up.


Cylinder head removed. Cleaned a thin layer of oily carbon off everything. Must burn some oil, never noticed much smoke yet though.
Didn't notice any huge marks in the cylinder wall or anything. Looks about as good as can be expected.


Original head from the engine on the left. High compression head on the right. Started it for a minute or so with the new head and it started and ran fine.
Possibly sounds a little different but hard to tell. One thing I can tell for sure is different, all the time I rode around with this thing, it never backfired when backing off the gas unless it was really hot from riding a long time and even then it wouldn't backfire very loud. As soon as I put the high compression head on, it backfires every time you rev it and back off. So good or bad, something has definitely changed with the mixture or the way it's burning. We'll see how that goes at haspin.


Changed the oil, went with 10w-40 this time. Finished putting all new fuel lines on. Welded a loose connection with the heim joint and freed up same said joint a bit. Re-adjusted the carb vent line which was not at a steep enough angle. Also made a guide for the jack shaft brake band so it can't jump off the drum. Just need to check tire pressure and grease all the joints. This one is ready for haspin again.

Nice machine work on the head. i’ve seen a lot of people either running heavier weight oil or diesel engine oil in their small engines. Why did you decide to go with a heavier oil?