MatthewD's Westwood T1200 Rally Mower

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

you pay for what you get in the lighting world.

Except me, I'm special and get my stuff for free.

That roll bar would be neat for a bumper. Even if you wanted to cut it up and weld up something different, some nice bends there and all the same size tubing.

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

Amazon sells some sweet 6 and 4 led pods that are bright, dont draw much, and waterproof. See if they will ship to you. Remember, you pay for what you get in the lighting world.

Those Led pods seemed expensive. Has anyone ever had any experience with these: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Ring-Automotive-RL022-Rectangular-Driving/dp/B0030VQJGA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426013752&sr=8-1&keywords=Rectangular+Spot+Lights

mr.modified wrote:

That roll bar would be neat for a bumper. Even if you wanted to cut it up and weld up something different, some nice bends there and all the same size tubing.

Yeah, It's quite nice stuff. I'll probably use it for something in this build, maybe a skid plate for the transaxle because around my place there are a lot of rocks etc.

12/03/15
Small update, done some planning of my new frame and working out the pulley and belt system. I also opened the Carburettor up and rubbed it down ready for reassembly and paint!

14/03/15
Afternoon all, Got a Small Update!

I put the Carburettor back together and painted it






Got a run down the side of the bowl, but nothing too bad



There are lots of other runs as well but the carb will be hidden under the hood.

if u have the time and tools id take that carb there where intake bolts to the head i would go on ahead and port out that rough spot there it might create a small low spot for it not to flow right and might cause some power lack and lag im not 100% sure on this but looks rough lol

Yeah I do plan on porting the intake of the carb out because it is actually an 8hp carb, the engine I'm using is a 12hp. It isn't as rough as it looks in RL though but I'll still try and port it a little.

Right, I'd like your feedback on this as I'm a lil stuck.

I have 18 inch ags on 8 inch rims that I'd like to use for the back. I think I can get my hands on 8 inch rims for the front aswell. So my question is, do I:

go with 18 inch ags on rear, 18" turfs on front

OR

22 inch knobbys rear and 18" ags on front?

Please let me know what you think, desperately need your feedback on this as you guys have the experience.

I think 22" knobbies on rear and 18" ags on front would work the best, but if you don't have the money for knobbies just ags should work fine for the rear.

Yeah, thanks! So, what tyres are best, Ag's or knobbies?

i know the ags in our area are higher then the knobbies which is why i went knobbie due to them being cheaper and on amazon theres different sizes on the knobbies for 8" rim too i know ags are ok there pretty good but hard to keep cleaned out to bite down for more traction

Sorry no updates guys.

I've stopped work on the tractor for the time being, got too many other projects. I'm still in the build off, just don't have time to work on it for a while.

Good Luck to the rest of you!

Ahh yes I can feel you on being overwhelmed with projects. I try to keep one in running order so I can still have fun, and I can still have projects to work on. I try to keep it to one project at a time. I loose interest and parts go missing if I've got all types of sh!t torn down.

MatthewD wrote:

Right, I'd like your feedback on this as I'm a lil stuck.

I have 18 inch ags on 8 inch rims that I'd like to use for the back. I think I can get my hands on 8 inch rims for the front aswell. So my question is, do I:

go with 18 inch ags on rear, 18" turfs on front

OR

22 inch knobbys rear and 18" ags on front?

what was the original tire size because if they are too different they can throw off the angle of the tractor which can be bad  for going up or down steep hills
but from what is the norm on tractors id go bigger with the back just to keep the angles right

Or you could carry out a body raise by packing up the rear transaxle with some box section and use the mowing deck PTO pulley to get power from. Should gear it up a little too.

jonnya wrote:

Or you could carry out a body raise by packing up the rear transaxle with some box section and use the mowing  deck PTO pulley to get power from. Should gear it up a little too.

Yeah was thinking about that but I would need to lower the transaxle by 100mm (3 15/16 Inches)

Finally some progress!
I got the frame cut and welded together. I'm using an old rod welder (got it for free so can't complain), My welds aren't great to say the least.



I started working on a foot throttle. Basically there will be a washer welded at near enough the enough the end of the rod, leaving just enough room to attach a return spring. Then it will be bolted onto the frame and linked to the engine.


I have started to make a fuel tank mount and I got 2 nearly new 15" turfs for the front (they were free ) I'll be using my 18" ags for the rear.

I'm out of welding rods at the minute but the plan is to finish welding the frame, fit front axle, then get rear axle mounts done (front and rear axle will be raised up)

Do-to list
Finish frame
Cut off excess metal and brackets from body & finish fuel tank mount
Make up seat bracket
Finish throttle
Make up foot plates
Get engine running
Lock transmission
Electrics
Front and rear axles

And many more things!

Hi, on a previous post you mention rev counters. I'd go for the analogue one. I bought a cheapie digital one and it's pretty useless if you are using a foot throttle and the revs are continually changing. It can keep up with the change. I guess it would be fine on something with a hand throttle. Can you share the details of the analogue one you have found? I've had a look for one but no joy.

I'm thinking something like this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-Tachometer-Tach-Gauge-Holder-Cup-for-Car-2-52mm-0-8000RPM-Blue-LED-Light-/141289259828?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item20e57f0334

Right ho, I guess youd have to think about the wiring for this as it's designed for 4-6-8 cylinder engines. Although briggs engines run a wasted spark ignition so maybe would work as per a 4 cylinder? I'm not an expert on electronics so not sure?

Yes that was what put me off an analogue tachometer. I think this one would be easier to set up, as it's for a single cylinder - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Hour-Meter-Tachometer-Small-Engine-Spark-For-Motorcycle-Boat-Bike-UK-Stock-/310817467250?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item485e2a2b72.

I'm deciding what power plant I'm going to use for this build.

I have 2 engines, a 1998 12hp Briggs, and a 1980 8hp Briggs. Both are missing some parts, 12hp is missing a carb and 8hp is missing the throttle plate. I was going to use the 12hp but it has a few 'sticky bits'. They both have ran under my possession at a time. I'm leaning towards the 8hp, but I would have to run it ungoverned.

I've got one the same as that on my rat rod. I wouldn't recommend one. The display takes a long time to catch up. Only any use on a standard type hand throttle, the ones for constant revs. It's ok for setting up the engine, but no use whatsoever when the mower is in motion.

Right okay. I may not use one at all.

I've decided to use the 8hp flatty. It's been in our family since new and been rebuilt by my dad and uncle and it has a cast iron sleeve. I'm going to run it without the governor since I've done it with a couple of Honda GX's and never had any problems. Would it be better to remove it or just bypass it?

Frame looks ok. Welds aren't horrible, close enough. About the governor, a lot of people like to take the guts out of the engine because they don't want them falling apart inside. I usually take them out, but If you don't want to take the case apart you can hook a spring on the governor rod to hold some pressure on it. I don't see how it could fall apart anyway, I guess if they just lay there loose they can get banging around.

Does anyone know what the part number is for a 8hp Briggs starter motor gear?

Does anyone know what the part number is for a 8hp Briggs starter motor gear?

I just found the part number out. It's 695708 for reference. I'm going to my local lawnmower store tomorrow to get one.