Mr.modified's GTR Four Zero

Thanks. About the lug holes, the center hole is off a lot on this rim. The other front rim is better. The lug holes are almost where they should be though, so it doesn't really hurt anything, just looks bad. I had a tough time drilling the centers out with my mini drill press and a hole saw. I didn't have a good way to hold the rim down so I used ratchet straps to hold the rim to the table. Also the drill press has some play to it, so things jumped around a bit.

Bought gears for the axle, output of the transmission, and a pulley with 1" hub for the crankshaft. If my figures are correct, top speed at 4000rpm should be around 40mph.

Also some stickers I received a week or so ago.

Here we have the engine pulley welded to the hub and the axle drive gear with washers welded in the center. The washers fit pretty snug on the 3/4" axle.


I took the splined gear that was originally on the peerless 700 transmission and cut the teeth down so that it fits snug inside the new drive gear. Just need to weld it in. Should look pretty clean this way I think.


Originally, the transmission was on a self propelled leaf vaccum powered by a flathead briggs 8hp.

Brake band came in the mail. Looks like it fits my brake drum ok.


Mocking up front suspension so I can weld the bracket for the shocks. I think the steering will also be attached to the same bracket. I need to sand blast, paint, and mount the other front wheel and then I can see where I want the ride height.

Steering? Like atv style I imagine. Looks good though. Make sure you don't have any positive camber in ride height, especially when you sit on it

Looks good Mr Modified!

Thanks. Steering is going to be really tight, but I think I can make it work. There will be a pivot up front with the tie rod ends attached and a rod running under the engine to the steering column behind the cylinder head. Why no positive camber? I think there will be a very slight amount of negative camber (That is the bottom of the tires closer together as I understand it) or just straight (0 camber) at rest. Then with the arms all the way to the stops, you'll have some positive. Looks like the suspension will work better than I thought, 2" of travel should be do-able.

Started work on the engine mount. High tech 1" aluminum.


Sections cut, lining things up to drill holes.


Holes drilled. Stock engine bolt holes were 3/8" with threads in the engine block. I'm using 5/16" bolts for all four engine bolts with 1/4" bolts holding the aluminum rails to the frame. Except the front right corner which goes through the engine, aluminum, and the frame. Between this and the engine, there will be an aluminum plate to help spread out the load and let more of the bottom of the engine hit. As it is now, the engine only touches on the edge of the feet.


Just an idea of size. One front wheel on and the junk rear tires slid onto the axle. Now with the engine mounts in place, I can see what I have to do with the steering. Clutch will be tight also. Once the steering and clutch are done, the rest shouldn't be so bad. Not 100% on how the transmission will mount either, but I'll figure something out.


Had the vintage sand blaster working to clean up the other front rim. Usually a pain to get working correctly, if your not careful it plugs up.


When you get it working correctly it does a pretty decent job. Would be tough and take a long time to get the rims this clean without it. Now as soon as I get a chance, I can prime, paint, and mount the tire on this rim. Then I can check ride height easier and line things up for the front shock mounts.

things gonna be nasty and quick when done good work!

Thanks. I'm pretty sure I'll still make the cut off. Still working on the engine mount a little. Now I have both front wheels mounted. This weekend I can work on finishing the front suspension. Also cut out some parts for the air filters.

Anything more than like 4 degrees of camber is bad. Less tire patch, starts turning like junk. Want the tires to stand straight almost all of the time to stay in check. Any caster??

Supposed to be zero caster. Checking out different ways I can do the steering. I may run the rod from the steering shaft/wheel over the engine mount and beside the engine instead of under it.

Engine mount is done. Aluminum plate riveted to the rails for some extra strength. Hole cut for the crank shaft.


Shocks put in place with both front wheels on. I marked out a section of box steel to make a bracket to hold the shocks.


Found out my brake drum (water pump pulley) was probably from a Hyundai. This one happens to be a 2011 Elantra. Now I know where to find a replacement.

Looking good! I would add 3 degrees camber and 0 degrees caster. One question though, why aren't the box section engine mounts parallel?

Looking good! I would add 3 degrees camber and 0 degrees caster. One question though, why aren't the box section engine mounts parallel?

The box rails are on an angle because that's how the bolt holes are arranged, two of them are close together. I just tipped the rails to be in line with the holes.

I got the idea for the blue pulleys from this video. In the beginning, they have a shot of some exposed timing belt gears painted blue. I don't want to get too flashy with dress up stuff, but I figured I would paint the drive pulleys and gears blue.

From what i gather 5-8 degrees of caster is what go kart guys run so the steering self centers. but a little too late now. lol

Things aren't super high tech in the front end really. I got it pretty straight, but the shocks end up being about half an inch off from each other in relation to the frame rails. I tried measuring things out as best as I could, but I didn't have a good way to hold things when I welded up the a-arms. At this point I'm just trying to get some suspension travel without the left front wheel hitting the front air filter. I really should have made the whole thing a little differently as it's not an ideal design, but I think it should be ok. The main problem is that the whole machine is pretty small. It's tough to think out where everything is going to fit when your starting from scratch and there's so many different things to fit together. In a perfect world, you draw out every piece on the entire machine and figure it out ahead of time, but I'm not sure if I have the patience for that sort of thing.

A couple pictures of today's progress. Made both tie rods by shortening up some used go kart tie rods. The one is threaded all the way down only because that one had longer thread sections at the ends. I would have cut the threads down and made it look like the other rod, but the threads were only good out on the very end where the joint was threaded on.


I was going to put collars over the welded spots, but I V-ed the ends in pretty good and used the hottest setting my welder had. I think I'll just try them like this and see how it goes.

Looking good!

Thanks!

Upper shock bracket and lining up the steering. Trying to keep as much leverage on the shocks as I can while leaving room for the steering.


Suspension mount.


Center steering pivot lengthened out and modified. That piece with the blue paint on it is a section of frame I didn't use from the baja sears.

Preview of the mostly assembled engine and high tech custom valve cover setup.


Cut my own covers from some tin and welded pieces of brake line in so regular fuel line fits on.


The cover on the upper cylinder has one tube near the top of the cover. The upper valve area is the one that has the big vent holes into the block. The lower one only has a small oil drain hole. I ran the vent from the upper cover to the bottom tube of the lower cover. Then from the remaining tube you can run a line to the ground or through a catch can. I think this arrangement will give some more oil to the valves on the lower cylinder and also I think the lower valve "pocket" will act as an oil separator somewhat.

Nice!

Looking cool taking shape. Wouldnt you want more oil in the top cyl components anyways? From what i know the top cyl doesnt get nearly as much oil as the bottom

Thanks. The lower cylinder valves don't have much getting in as far as the mist that's present in the crankcase because there aren't any large openings. The only way oil can get in stock is past the tappet/lifter shafts. With this transfer hose you get a mist sprayed right onto the valve springs from the blow by/crank case pressure. The upper valves still get the same amount of oil as they would before. Not that it needs it probably, If you had a bunch of used stock engines, you could check and see if there is more wear on the lower valve stems. Like I said though, this also acts as an oil separator. There's a small oil drain hole in the lower one that leads back into the block. Most of the oil should separate from the air flow by the time it goes through the rubber hose and up around the valve springs. I've ran open covers with a vent on a bunch of single cylinders and they don't seem to kick much out even running them without a governor. Should be almost no loss with this setup.

And where were you when I was hacking the paddles down on the oil slinger! No one said anything about that....lol

Oh, i thought the lower valve case had the same openings as the top. should be pretty good.

Paddles are up to you man! If it was me id want all the sling lube i can get but it aint my engine.... lol

cuz ur bad and not as skool 4 kool as mr. moodified.