Craftsman off road tractor

yep mines done with a mig (gas) got my uncles one, ill comment on this page if it breaks

small Picture update again,

ok this is before i cleaned the top of the trans case
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all though this isn't the same trans half, its what it will be, i cleaned it and painted it black, looks nice.
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ok, this is the trans inside CLEAN I DON'T THINK I CAN GET IT ANY BETTER
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This is the lower half, with the jb weld on the crack for repair.
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so overall things are going well, im taking my time on this trans, im having the rear custom made to be possi, and there will be no spider gears or anything, just the ring gear. Im going to get new seals for the 3 external shafts, and then fill it with some thick gear oil. Well thats it for now, ill post more later on as usual.

wow man im really impressed! you did a great job and i think its great that your just gunna buy a straight shaft so you do have to screw around with spider gears. You got it really clean !!!!

good god thats a very nice tranny u got yourself there, very nice]

also im not buying an straight axle setup im making one for free!!! this thing should be great once im all done with her. Im also going to construct a skid plate of some sort for the trans as well. Im also going to weld up a front and rear bumber, and foot rest, and i have this crazy idea, but doubt i will do it, find some rotors and calipers and put a hydraulic brake system, but i dont think i could do that, but i will get my current brakes working right.

holy crap free is the best price It gunna be great

Cant have 'too much' braking power - stock brakes are for stock tractors.

well i think sometime when im done with it, its not going to be stock. I have a BIG LIST i want done to this thing but so little time and money and im lacking my own welder.

also one pic update, here is with some of the gears, COMPLETELY CLEAN, dry fitting into the trans case.
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and the next
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looking good? well tomorrow im going to clean the other set of gears, and dry fit it, and then wait on my straight axle hub for the trans. Then I'm going to find good locations for drilling and tapping holes for the fill and drain for the use of gear oil.

Boy oh boy, aint that purty. Hate to dirty it with oil . Coming along really nice. Thanks for the pics.

Id still add zerks near the axle ends - specially if y have berings there- combination of grease n oil will make it work better yet.

i was going to put red wheel bearing gears on the axles to kinda keep water out and oil in at that part, though i will have seals on it. , and im going to put gears were the oil to me wouldn't get to that well, say the input shaft bearings.
and yes i am going to be alittle, you know, when i pour oil in a clean trans, but the oil, should be easier to remove than that grease crap. and i don't have bearings in it, the axle rides in the aluminum housing, so i am going to put red wheel grease there for sure.

also does anyone know where a good spot for a fill and drain on the trans? its a spicer 6 speed

hey how does your trans work with gear oil, any different than with grease excluding the oil leak. likes does it sound quieter, smoother shifting? also im going to have to fit everything in the trans dry and figure a good spot cause there is really nice spot BUT it would be in the way of the shifter forks I was thinking to use a dipstick from an old mower and chopp it down to fit in the trans housing so i can keep a good fluid level.

You could use a fill/check tube if the pulley isnt too big - then you could just fill it regularlly instead of even checking it.

Im surprised that even socking grease in my mod MTD- thing is quiet for a lil bit then starts whining again a lil bit- i keep socking grease to it.

Im sure theyll whine no matter what, since they werent designed for anything more then mowing duty. My murrays would have a lil gear noise when i started cranking the gears higher- when i started to slow was when it REALLY howled- and that was with lucas oil in it.

Surprisingly when i had my agways trans out ( 1st time ever i did it) - thing had NO oil in it- wondered why it shifted a bit hard sometimes....but ran good and powered thru alot of stuff - thing that helped was it only has 3 'creeper gears' - seriously slow.

I tried putting Heavy gear oil in My Mazda 323 tranny and i discovered on cold mornings it was a PITA to get the car in gear till it got warmed. just putting that out there.

more picture updates, i found something that will be very use full, almost perfect.
i forgot i had this pressure washer frame that used to have my go kart engine on it.
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another view
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and of course im going to remove the wheels, then find a way to mount it up under my transmission, it will work out like a skid plate, to protect the housing which is really good. it was like it was secretly made for it, lol.

ok on the trans, here is the oil drain plug i found and put in.
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and here is some more gears i cleaned, i have them all clean, now i got to wait till my grandpa can get around to making that hub for the ring gear.
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well thats it for now, going to sometime get the new oil seals, and the gear oil.

mmmm clean....

Msteele: Yepper- thats the downside to such a thick gear oil - down here i really dont have to worry about that. When i changed the gear oil in my 86 GT II craftsman, i used lucas oil , since it worked so well in my mod murray- come to find out i was supposed to use regular 10w30 motor oil due to just that fact . I havent had any issues using the lucas oil .


Motorhead 45102: That looks like a perfect skid plate - sides are already bent up n everything. You might be able to use the handle for mounting brackets. Drain looks slick- can use for drain and fill - flip it on its side to fill it .

To properly put the seals in- the case should be cut to accept them . Id put one on the brake stub, and axle ends- if you fill the case almost completely with oil- youll need a vent tube. Using the straight axle will be easy to mount a aftermarket set of brakes.

as im awaiting a special hub to be made for my trans, im also ordering overhaul kits for my engine, i so far ordered a carb. overhaul kit, for half the price of a new one from retailer store, online rocks, next im going to order the engine gasket set, every gasket on that engine. cause, one my engine leaks oil, and it hasn't had a engine head cleanup like its suppost to have every 100 hrs of use, i would like to build this engine up alittle bit, like i want to use dual valve springs and port the intek and exhaust.
ok does anyone else have any idea i can do to the top side of the engine, to get more power or more flow? idk

Dont polish the intake tube - briggs motors like a lil turbulence, just clean it up a lil. Other power helpers? Open exhaust ( has to be long enough for proper beackpressure tho) and a foot/hand throttle - with the new throttle alone itll be a HUGE improvement in response.

Id never herd of cleaning the cylender head , unless needed ( exception would be the opposed twins) - ive got a 28 year old 11HP briggs that still runs like new and ive never opened the motor neither has my 5HP briggs thats 30 years old - why mess with it if it runs good is my motto.

Only time ive pulled cylender heads is either to junk the motor or if the motor was full of rusty water.

well when i get a gasket set for the oil parts, like case, valve cover, shaft seals, they all leak, and plus the kit comes with head gasket as well, so i might as well put a new one on. and im guessing you've polished a Briggs engine and didn't run right?
also i noticed, on my 11hp and on fearless 11hp on youtube, (yes i can hear distinct motor noises even on youtube, lol) that when the motor is revved up, there is not a clanking, tapping noise, but a metal rattle, coming from the inside of the block, could it be the synchronization thing on the crank. Also would anyone happen to have a 11hp I/c block, cause i don't like the engines that just use a tempored aluminum bore, i like the engines with the castiron sleeve, they last longer. and would anyone have a 5hp I/c gold block? my go kart engine intake piece is broken and can't bolt a carb to it.

I wish i could swap my engine with the engine on this other riding mower, it has a 12.5hp I/c engine on it and it runs great, but my engine doesn't smoke and runs good i just need to rebuild the carb cause i didn't clean it right the first time.

oh i already have a gas pedal if thats what you mean.

my 11hp says the same thing, clean head every either 100 or 500 can't exactly remember the sticker.