FAO; fearlessfront & redneckcomputergeak or anyone else that can help

Hi all, just picked up this yardman mtd from e bay, it looks very similar to the craftman on redneckcomputergeaks you tube video, anyhow Im after some engine advice, the guy said it was running last year, he kept in shed over winter, this year it wont start, someone told him it was the starter motor, so he bought a new one at £70, that didn't work, then he was told the solenoid, but he couldn't be bothered and just bought another tractor,

as I was told the above via messages before end of sale, I didn't know what engine it was, and therefore thought the screwdriver across the solenoid trick would show use if that was the problem, but of course, this looks more electronic??

so, as yet I have not checked the valves, never having done that before I thought I'd ask here first??

can you help a baffled brit??

https://youtu.be/VgxWVWMCnGI

if it spins over and dosen't stop, then the starter and that system is fine. the yellow wires are for the charging system, so those should not be a problem. make sure that the clutch is pressed all the way down, and the deck is disengaged, with you sitting on the seat. my dad's ryobi will turn over without me on the seat, but the engine will not start.

Try hooking up jumper cables, ground to some bare metal on the frame, then touch the positive to the starter, if that works then something is wrong with the electrical system...

an update, well I found the solenoid hidden under the seat, and decided to completely strip all the loom out with safety switches and start again as per fearlessfront's video's, then I stripped the carb, and OMG!!!!! it was very dirty, I also drained out around 16 ounces of oil where it had been over filled by previous owner, added a new fuel filter, the air filter will need replacing as that's oil filled, and it maybe an idea to drain all the oil and start again with fresh, I also double checked the valve gaps, I'm just waiting on a new solenoid to be delivered, but at least it fired up at last,

there's no clutch or cutting deck (1997 murray) as its an auto rear axle/gearbox so I'm told  

https://youtu.be/5zLHc-MdPsI

the safety swich still needs to be pressed

1997 Murray wrote:

the safety swich still needs to be pressed

   what safety switch pray tell, all switches connected to the loom were removed, I re-used the momentary ignition switch if that's what you mean?
you can see me start it up in the video, no switches were pressed

oh sorry, I get confused with so many threads on here.

ratcatcher wrote:

can you help a baffled brit??

https://youtu.be/VgxWVWMCnGI

First, I like that you linked to the vid, instead of embedding it. With a link, I have more viewing choices. With it embedded, I have two choices. Watch it in a tiny little window. Or expand it to the entire screen.

Ok, for the questions from the vid. In the order that you asked them.

1. That bit that the dog chewed is the regulator. That has to do with the charging system and the lights. It's not a part of your problem. You were correct, it's not in the right place. It should be bolted on the strap that goes round the starter body. (Yours is missing.) But again, it will work fine where it is, if you extend the wiring. Or you can bolt it on the other side of the starter, as long as it has good ground. And again, it is not a part of your problem.

2. The black and white wires... On the engine side of the connector, trace the two wires. They both should be routed to the other side of the engine, via a route that takes them round the front of the engine, and under it at the same time.

One wire will go to the gas shutoff solenoid that is screwed to the bottom of the carberator bowl.

The other wire makes it's way to the top of the engine, and goes to the coil. That wire is your killswitch wire. What I think you called a 'cut-out" wire. You do not want to get the engine started without at least having the loose end, (the connector end), of that wire ready to be held to a ground point somewhere.

3. Yes, it can be started without the starter motor. (What you pointed at when you said solenoid, is the regulator.)

You can bolt a pulley to the top of the flywheel there. Put a notch in the right direction, in the lip of the pulley, to hold your rope. Then wind a rope on the pulley and give it a yank.

My favorite alternative starting method is to use a 1/2" drill, with a socket attachment, and a socket that fits that main bolt in the center/top, there. Set the socket on, and spin it with the drill. Yank upward to disengage, when the engine sputters and starts.

4. Yes, it is possible that it is the safety devices. Watch more of FearlessFront's videos about wiring. (And his posts here, about the same.) If this is to be a mud mower, you don't need all those safety switches. Eliminate them.


5. My impression here, is that it was because of the dirty carb. The other possibility may seem like a stupid one, but I have to ask... Do you have the killswitch grounded? Going back to question number 2... trace those wires.

When you try to start the engine, the wire that runs to the solenoid on the carb, needs to have power going to it. (The other wire from the solenoid will be grounded somewhere near the carb.)

And the other wire from question number 2, needs to be hanging loose. Ready to be held to a ground somewhere, to turn the engine off.


Hope this helps, and not too late.

Angchor wrote:

Hope this helps, and not too late.

it is, but thanks for taking the time to reply, I should have updated, I removed all the wiring loom and safety switches, and wired it up as per fearlessfronts you tube video, everything seemed to work, but the engine would still not fire up, so I ordered new fuel pipe as it seemed the bowl on carb kept getting dirty, so I thought maybe the pipe was deteriorating inside, sure enough as soon as I replaced that and cleaned the tank out, she fired straight up, but a couple of cranks later, and the metal cog on the starter broke in pieces, although replacement cogs are available, as this happened within a short space of time from me having it, I'll be adding the flywheel to the top, the drill idea looks good, but as it'll be getting left in our woodland, the pulley idea seems best,
although seeing a few posts about the rear axle/gearbox, makes me wonder if this machine will be any good or not?
if not I'll keep the engine and transfer it into another westwood

cheers