Speed Build

Alright so i will be moving my build up to the school shop sometime this week so the real work can begin:)




front grille is cracked up pretty bad. any suggestions on how to repair it? thinkin i might just cover with strong tape and paint over


topped off the gas so i have plenty to run it in the shop


looks pretty good. i like the shiny white rims:)


i did some cleaning up ... all the tools loose bolts and parts gathered up and i washed the whole thing down. its ready to go now


threw the tarp back on to keep it safe

saw this ad on craigs list. hes parting it out before he sends it to the scrap yard. i contacted him asking about brakes and am waiting for a reply.



i can see the front brakes in the pic but dont know if it has em still on the rear

also emailed a guy asking about scrap metal to find some square tubing

its a super nice day outside so i wanted to work on my tractor but had nothin to do:/ so i decided to plan and take some more measurements



from the top of the frame to the ground is 12 inches. so im going to have to take off around 8 inches to get to 4... might be a little tricky but it will work. the section of the frame im cutting out is around 2.5 inches. so that leaves me with around 4 inches more to take off to get to a 4 inch ride height. that means im going to have to have about 4.5 inches of drop to get to 4. right now its sittin at about 36 inches wide so i think i am goin to increase the size of the axle by 4 inches 2 on each side when i do my v-axle. iv read the racers shoot for around 40 inches wide and i think it will give me a ton more stability even though it doesnt seem like much.

also i have to cut off those things sticking way down


ill will get my height and width by having the drop on the axle be around 4 inches and having it slant out by 2 inches on each side

my math was a little off it will prolly be around a 5 inch drop to get it to 4 inches

to fix the cracked plastic i think you might be able to get it where you want it then heat up a peice of metal and then besicly weld it back together just by melting it, i know a guy that did that on his four wheeler and it looked pretty good

ph wow thats a great idea i didnt even think of that. i saw a post where someone used a sodering gun but i dont have one so yea... thanks

Sometimes its hard to explain things when its not in front of you.... Id mount the footrests first - then set the transmission ride hieght where you want it - then you can get an actual height of the tractor off the ground - once thats set, then you might need to trim more off the fenders before either welding or bolting it on - the fenders are the easiest thing to adjust after the rest of the project is done - fenders are also usually the last thing to go on .

id also settle on what kind of tires you want before doing any cutting- that plays into the ride height as well- i laid out my wizard to have the front spindles in the center of the stock front axle ends - then went in a level line to where the axle would ride - about 2" up into the chassis- its easier in my case because im not running a trans on it - just a straight axle and sprocket .

The parted out cycle sounds like a good idea- just make sure to get the whole brake system- master cylender and everything - the rear brakes look like a drum style- unless the disc is already gone - id be tempted to get the whole motor and everything- thats a shaft drive - ive seen one on you tube setup with a motor/trans like that- the kid added a sprocket where the wheel would sit, ran a chain to a straight axle- thing burned rubber thru the first three shifts he did.


about the grille- my original murray hood was cracked - i used a 2 part epoxy - that didnt hold worth a hoot- i have seen a plastic welder tho - similar to welding metal- cept it welds plastic.


I like to offroad and go mudding - also like to buzz around fast as well- up north at the folks i used my agway down in the swamp behind the house - down here theres no mud around- so building one offroader out of the agway was all i needed ( altho i would like to make a 4x4 tractor- some year) - the MTD will be a speed machine and maybe light offroad and the wizard will be eventually be a general fun machine as well .

oh know i think understand. the reason i was talknig bout lower the top so much was because i cant really move the transaxle because it will be out of line. eventually after i get a job and some money i would want to do a jackshaft to to a axle.

and yea i dont see a disk on the back . unless its a different kind of brake its prolly gone. but yea that would be sweet if i could get the engine to cuz then i could get rid of the transaxle and do a normal axle.

I wish i had another tractor because i would love to build another one for offroading even tho theres no offroad near me. it would still be cool to ride around and show off

theres a secret dirtbike track deep in the forest on airport property by my house but ya the only reason that forset is there is cuz it surrounding the airport

oh and something i just noticed i liked the motor actualy came with dual exhaust and i liked bieng able to have the muffler to put on and off whenever i wanted but i looks like its gonna have to go. so i was thinkin somethin like ths

http://www.eccarburetors.com/estore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=9&products_id=451
http://www.eccarburetors.com/estore/index.php?main_page=popup_image&pID=451



so it looks like ima have to do somethin with the exaust. i was thinkin somethin like this. it will give me high flow while also still sounding badass just be a little quieter. and i will have the ability to screw them on or off whenever i want.

plus there only $9

I have 2 of those mufflers on a splitter on my 16.5 OHV mower. They're only $5 at magic mart. I think I spent more on the plumbing parts to adapt it to my engine than I did for the mufflers. I plan to use them on my dual exhaust for my twin also.

dont think theres any magic marts near me.. unless u can buy em online. do they work pretty good?

i just thought of something, you said you cant lower the axle into the frame because itll take it out of alignment
i have a jackshaft off an old white tractor anyway it has one big pulley and a small pulley on the small end, itll let you drop the axle like 6 inches and align it all for you. i would send it to you but i think im going to use it lol anyway if you can find something like that it would help you out a lot with the ride height
let me know if it doesnt make sence lol

haha i get it. i wanted to use a jack shaft and i prolly will... eventually

wow no one emailed back bout the scrap metal or the brakes... haha

typical craigs list/kijiji people try to sell something but never reply to their emails

So some good news and then some better news. First i got my mower to the shop at school. i didnt get much done though cuz i was busy showin off how loud the engine was. it was like twice as loud in the shop... prolly disrupted some nearby classrooms but whatever. lol

and second i found out my transaxle already has gear oil in it so i wont have to worry bout it leakin out when i replace it:)

only thing i did to day was take off the front axle... i ued a $7000 dollar lift to lift up the front... those are for lawnmowers anyway right? lol jk


oh also how much gear oil should i get for the tranny ?i already got a quart and was wondering if i will need more

thanks

You dont want to fill it totally full - around 1/2 - 3/4 full. You might want to add a breather tube as well , so the trans doesnt build up pressure . Quart should be plenty.

Alright thanks... At our school we are on a block schedule So we have A days and B days. Thant means i get to work on it every other day but next time im prolly start prepping for welding with a ginder. cut nothces for the front axle and move the idler pulley if i have time. ill prolly do the tranny either next week or the week after

i also got a little bit of 1inch square tubing. it wont be enuf but its a start

i also asked on heymow why they removed the reverse chain and found out cuz its alway spinnin(not just when in reverse) and could break/ come off at high speeds. but i checked the diagram the exploded diagrm for the chain and there doesnt appear to have one so idk if im even gonna go through trouble of ponen it up if i can jsut empty and refill it from the outside.

Some craftsmans have the chain - most are just controlled by gears - About the reverse - I figured it was just part of thier 'saftey rules- you dont accidentally want to shift in reverse going 20 plus MPH....sides racers only go forwards, not backwards.

Id just still put a small c clamp where the reverse is.

ya i just asked them at heymow to be sure.. but it dont matter cuz i aint go no chain anyway... lol

noledroByrreK wrote:

So some good news and then some better news. First i got my mower to the shop at school. i didnt get much done though cuz i was busy showin off how loud the engine was. it was like twice as loud in the shop... prolly disrupted some nearby classrooms but whatever. lol

and second i found out my transaxle already has gear oil in it so i wont have to worry bout it leakin out when i replace it:)

only thing i did to day was take off the front axle... i ued a $7000 dollar lift to lift up the front... those are for lawnmowers anyway right? lol jk


oh also how much gear oil should i get for the tranny ?i already got a quart and was wondering if i will need more

thanks

thats shweet, wish my ghetto school had a shop instead we having engineering classes that are spose to take over the old shop classes, even though my engineering teacher says its stupid. so im gunna take ag. classes, retarded

Yea i am fortunate enuf to live in a nice district so we have a really nice shop... prolly nicer than some shops that we get are cars fixed at... lol

Are shop has bout 4 or 5 nice lifts then one i used wqasnt even the expensive one and tons of tools.

We actually have 3 shops at are school. A welding shop wish bout 20 nice welders. My auto shop. Then a auto body shop with full paint booths and all the tools for bodywork

Alright so this may seem like overkill but i really want this. its a high flow air filter and adapter for my carb. i know the briggs airfilter on this kind of engine was designed like crap so this will help with airflow. i need a new airfilter and prefilter anyway so i figured id just get this instead of replacing the old one. the old one was aroun $11 for the filter and precleaner but it was prolly like $10 for shipping. so around 20 bucks. this one is $25 so i figure when i get some money i might as well

http://ronsrocketparts.com/air-filters2.html





Alright so with this build i am really hopein it doesnt turn out to be a wheelie machine. wheelies are cool but burnouts and drifts are way more fun. im hopin with that big engine sitting lower that it will keep it from doin wheelies to much(mabye a little wheelie here and there.. lol)

but does anyonyone else have any ways to help to keep it from doin wheelies to much?

thanks

noledroByrreK wrote:

Yea i am fortunate enuf to live in a nice district so we have a really nice shop... prolly nicer than some shops that we get are cars fixed at... lol

Are shop has bout 4 or 5 nice lifts then one i used wqasnt even the expensive one and tons of tools.

We actually have 3 shops at are school. A welding shop wish bout 20 nice welders. My auto shop. Then a auto body shop with full paint booths and all the tools for bodywork

my school doesn't even have a welding class! ill have to be bussed to the other highschool in my isd. even though my school has over 2500 kids in it!

noledroByrreK wrote:

Alright so this may seem like overkill but i really want this. its a high flow air filter and adapter for my carb. i know the briggs airfilter on this kind of engine was designed like crap so this will help with airflow. i need a new airfilter and prefilter anyway so i figured id just get this instead of replacing the old one. the old one was aroun $11 for the filter and precleaner but it was prolly like $10 for shipping. so around 20 bucks. this one is $25 so i figure when i get some money i might as well

http://ronsrocketparts.com/air-filters2.html





Alright so with this build i am really hopein it doesnt turn out to be a wheelie machine. wheelies are cool but burnouts and drifts are way more fun. im hopin with that big engine sitting lower that it will keep it from doin wheelies to much(mabye a little wheelie here and there.. lol)

but does anyonyone else have any ways to help to keep it from doin wheelies to much?

thanks

three words, weight in
front, i think (im just as new to this as you)

With a non locked trans, there wont be too much in the way of burnouts and drifts- unless youre on ice or wet grass.

That was one thing i didnt like about my murray, when i popped it in gear it had the tendency to lift on the front ( i had turf tires on the back) i always leaned forward when starting out. When tractors are lowered, it should resist the front lifting somewhat- center of gravity is lower then normal.

Its also because the driver weighs alot more then the engine - adding weight to the front would lessen the wheelies but make it slower as well ( lighter the tractor- faster it goes). If you adjust the seat position and sit lower - it shouldnt be as bad.

been thinking about the wheeley prob when i getready to build mine have thought maybe set the rear axle back about 6 inches to put driver kinda infront of the wheel instead of over them