JCRacing's Racin Trapter

So, this past week or so I drilled the holes in my transmission plate and then tacked it into the frame. I don't have a picture of the bolt holes or the aluminum support bushing that I made.
Here it is mounted in the frame.

I also started to make the clutch. It will be a dual pulley clutch. I made the main part out of 3/8" steel plate and the bolts for the pulleys are both grade 8. the pivot bolt will be a grade 5 3/4" bolt that will ride with brass bushings in a large aluminum mounting hub. I really did not have any flex in the clutch lol. Here are the pictures

I have some more parts coming, as well as many new updates because the build is starting to move a lot faster.

Here is some new progress!

Got the rear tires mounted, the picture on the right is comparing the front to back tires, although I will be getting matching front tires.


The clutch pivot bolt will ride on this, which is about 1 1/2" thick aluminum block with a 3/4" bronze bushing. That is mounted on 1/4" plate to the frame.


The bottom of the transmission plate with the 4" pulley.


Here are the clutch and brake pedal. Made from 3/4" 1/8" wall square tube.


As it sits now, the hood and fenders are the only body panels mounted so far, and the steering column is coming next.

Dang that's got one hell of a bada$$ stance. Coming together! I guess I'm not the only one running a 70's wheelhorse hood.

Thanks, she sits really wide and low, but still has 5" of clearance, so I can still take her out in a field for some fun! You are lucky to have a v-twin though, I wish I could get my hands on one of those!

JamisonCampbellRacing wrote:

Thanks, she sits really wide and low, but still has 5" of clearance, so I can still take her out in a field for some fun! You are lucky to have a v-twin though, I wish I could get my hands on one of those!

Yea junkyard is basically my savor when it comes to parts. I have three junkyard twins

I suggest using the welder to put some grippys on those pedals... it sucks to have a foot slips off.

TheRainbowBoxer wrote:

I suggest using the welder to put some grippys on those pedals... it sucks to have a foot slips off.

Just an idea in case someone wants to do this. I put a nut of the size I want on a footpeg or whatever I'm working on, then just spot weld in the center to hold it on. Quick to do, and it's nice and clean.

I got quite a bit done since the last update. Thank you guys for the suggestions on the foot pedals. I think ill try them out at first smooth, because the way I made them, your foot should stay on the pedal pretty well.

I made the header for it, using a rusted out lawn chair! The thing shoots flames pretty good. Lol



Here is the dash board I made using left over from my wheeler fenders.


Here are some pictures of the steering set up.




Here is a picture to show about how much clearance it has.


How the gas tank is mounted, which is original wheel horse.


Here are some pictures of the thing as it sits. I am so excited to see it drive!



Also, here is the first start up of it!


Thanks for looking!

Looks killer. Front axle makes me feel better after seeing a lot of people on Facebook doing "40" on stock mowers.

Yeah it's pretty wide, and my spindles are long enough that I could make the front end about 4" wider. I sits about 42" wide with the stock MTD wheelbase. It is also very low, like the rear has 16" tires, so you probably only sit 18" off the ground.

Thunderdivine wrote:

Nice, and what's up with that steering design, looks great tho.

What do you mean? It is a normal direct steer setup, just it is above the chassis. That way I wouldn't have to worry about hitting the drivetrain.

JamisonCampbellRacing wrote:

Thunderdivine wrote:

Nice, and what's up with that steering design, looks great tho.

What do you mean? It is a normal direct steer setup, just it is above the chassis. That way I wouldn't have to worry about hitting the drivetrain.

Yeah I saw that, its clever. I ment how you did the 3 pipes to connect to the bearings and so on.

Sweet setup... and it looks safe and stable. the direct steer should help prevent overcorrection at high speeds, though I imagine it will be a bit stiff when puttering around

Yeah, the tubes between the bearings seemed like the simplest way to do it. And I can still remove the dash, bearings, and steering shaft. Pitman arm is actually welded to the original splined piece that went inside the plastic MTD steering wheel and then the steering shaft is the original MTD, just flipped upside down. What used to be the bottom end of the MTD steering shaft is welded to the Wheelhorse steering shaft.

Lawren Wimberly wrote:

Sweet setup... and it looks safe and stable. the direct steer should help prevent overcorrection at high speeds, though I imagine it will be a bit stiff when puttering around

Yeah it should be okay at speed, but I think I am going to make the arm on the steering column a little shorter, so I have to turn the steering wheel further for the wheels to turn less. It is a bit quick now.

How'd you make a 14.5 hp that stupid fast?! Lol gives me an idea with the spare 14.5 ive got

Finally got to drive it for the first time! I thought it was in first, but this is actually forth.

https://youtu.be/opfvFYCcnpg

There is still quite a bit of work to do, but for now I am happy that it moves!

Lol I repeat how'd u get a 14.5 hp scoot that fast? Im blown away by how fast it goes on that engine.

Hows the direct steer handle?

redlinemotorsportts wrote:

Hows the direct steer handle?

The steering is too quick such that you still have to over correct some and hold on for dear life!
I will be drilling a hole closer in on the steering wheel arm so that it steers slower.

partin_us_99 wrote:

Lol I repeat how'd u get a 14.5 hp scoot that fast? Im blown away by how fast it goes on that engine.

Its all in the gear ratios! I was starting in fourth gear and thats why it took off so hard. On this I ran a 6in. pulley on the engine to a 4in. pulley on the peerless 700, and then in the video the sprocket on the tranny was a 12tooth to a 36 tooth on the axle.
I just installed a 15tooth on the tranny so it should go around 25% faster.

I drove it for a weekend and the only thing that broke were the bearings for the front wheels! Also, the sprocket on the axle kept coming miss aligned, and another interesting thing that kept happening was that because there is no give on any part of the mower, everything kept vibrating terribly. The bolts that held the engine to the frame wiggled themselves out in about every 10 min of riding, aswell as the exhaust bolts, and most interestingly, the crankcase bolts came loose and one even back itself all the way out! It kept draining oil. Also, probably more than half of my set screws are now missing! Needless to say, now almost every nut and bolt is getting locktite, a lock washer, or a nylock, and in some cases all three.

In 5 gear it goes about 40-45mph and it loves to do donuts. With the recent switch of a tranny sprocket every gear should be about 25% faster. Meaning it will do 50-57mph, and first will still be low enough to take off and do donuts.