This is what i'm thinking about the clutch. I'll have to make a bracket and bolt it to the engine block via some of those threaded holes you see there. Basicly, that's how it was on the stock engine. Belt should be loose enough to not drag, so I think some guides around the engine pulley should keep it from dragging when disengauged. Space is limited, so I'll have to make a pretty compact setup, but it should actually work this time. Otherwise I just have to finish hooking up the alternator and tighty up some of that wiring that just hangs along the frame.
Looks like it should work. Isn't there anymore space towards the trans-axle side?
The trouble is that the belt runs along right under the frame, so there isn't any room for the pulley when disengauged.
As far as the linkage goes, I think it'll be ok. Should be able to run a rod right down to where it was before without any major hassle. I don't know how or where i'm going to hook the spring though, might have to weld something somewhere. Not sure yet. I'll worry about that last.
Decided to mount the clutch directly to the frame instead of on the engine. Turns out there is enough room, so it should work out pretty good. Took the alternator out of the way and welded up some brackets.
Pulley needs to be as far towards the center of the tractor as possible to clear alternator belt.
You didn't even lay tape down to protect the paint from the slag man!!!
Oh is that what your supposed to do? Figured I would just scrub things a little and repaint. Also, I found out a snowmobile tach works good with one wire grounded and the other connected to your kill switch wire on the coil. Now I need to find a hole saw big enough for the tach and I'll cut a hole in the dash. Only stupid thing about it is the tach goes to 10,000 and the briggs only runs up to 3500 or so. Still looks neat though.
I had trouble with the starter turning pretty slow as if you had a half dead battery even with a known good battery. I figured the starter was burned up, but turns out the bushings needed some oil. Blew everything out with compressed air, oiled the bushings, and cleaned off the brushes. Now it seems to work pretty good.
Throttle before was at a bad angle, cut off the pipe it was mounted to and reconfigured it a little. Works much better.
Mocked up a rear fender for the heck of it. My idea before was to mount them to the seat. I guess that's still what I would do, but I don't know if they would look too good or not. Probably cut them out of plastic. Maybe if they were the right color, they would look ok.
You can get an idea of what it would look like. You could change the shape and size of them, but go much smaller and there wouldn't be much point to putting them on. It would just keep some water from splashing right onto the seat, wouldn't be nearly as good as full fenders, but we kind of have to stay with the desert look which means something along these lines.
And lastly, started working on this steel rod scatter sheild to keep the big chunks of cast iron flywheel from flying into your foot. At least it would slow them down some. This will end up bolting to the frame in a couple spots covering the flywheel from straight down to about where the starter gear is. I planned on doing this during the build off but didn't have time.
Got the choke installed, switches labeled up with a marker, Tachometer installed!
Tach is from a 1979 or so kawasaki snowmobile. Kind of neat that it doesn't have kawasaki printed on it, just plain. Two wires for the tach itself. Ground one and connect the other to the coil shut off wire, seems to work pretty good. Marked the 4000rpm redline on there for good measure.
Light even works. I'll hook it up so it comes on with the main headlights. I was thinking I should have a dash light too, so it shines on the switches.
Finished up the scatter shield today.
Not only does it slow down jagged shards of flywheel from turning your clutch foot into hamburger meat, it also keeps your shoe from grinding on the flywheel screen.
Some of the tight bends were already in the rod I was using. Kind of went around the starter gear like that for looks more or less. In the event of an actual flywheel failure, I don't know how much it would help, but I'll bet it would be better than nothing. Should absorb a lot of energy even if it bends back a little. The other thing is that it holds the choke cable where it belongs so I don't need to make another bracket for it.
Not like everything is in perfect shape on this either. I never painted up the tie rods or the engine. The stock tie rod ends seem to be pretty snug, so I think I'll just leave them for now. I've got spares from my parts sears. Figured I could just keep extra rods on hand with the ends already on them.
It might be even deeper in May. WHOOO KNOOOOOOOOOOOOWSSSSSS????
As doug remembers, not only does he have two weddings and a dentist apointment scheduled for that weekend, but also his tractor is in pieces in his garage... No problem mr. fackler, you don't have to miss your weddings and junk.
redlinemotorsports wrote:
Cage looks real slick. But will it conquer the creek that ate both of dougs rigs?? We will have to see...
Thanks, and it'll handle any stream you've got...maybe. Got quite a bit done the past couple days because I have some time off. I got the clutch mostly rigged up today. Just need to add the springs.
Still need to: -Lock rear -Round off back corners of hood for safety... -Finish wiring -Rear fenders if I get to it. -Snug up all the bolts I never tightened. -Remove governor guts that I just left inside the engine...I know people seem to think they fly apart, I don't see why they would. I guess maybe the weights get slapping back and forth under certain conditions without a load on them. I was thinking for now, maybe find a governor arm off another engine and hook it with a spring. Then I can leave the engine alone.
Everything else mostly good I think. I should probably change the oil, STILL the same oil that was in it when I got it out of a guys back yard. Maybe a couple more stickers on the hood. That oughta cover it I think.