Can I guide my belt to one side? Without loosing to much power?

Like if this is the center of my tractor,

__________________|______________________
O O -------------------------------- O
----------------------------|-------------------------------
could I guide the belt to one side, like the red O are?

I dont see why not as long as the pulleys are all level with each other so it doesnt throw a belt it should work

Yea they will be, those will be clutch free as well. From the Peerless to the jack shaft top pulley I guess.

Thanks

I dont think you would lose any power, so long your rear and front pulleys still have enough contact with the belt and its tense. If re-routing it deosnt let the belt touch the pulleys enough you will see more slippage if it gets wet.

Guess I can even use a chain and sprocket or a toothed belt for that part. So it should work.

I wanna route it to one side so I can get the seat all the way down on the transmission, or very close abit in front of the axle.

Like this....

Yes.

I dont see how moving it to the one side would allow you to drop your seat further though. Your belt will still be under the seat.

Doug Fackler wrote:

Yes.

I dont see how moving it to the one side would allow you to drop your seat further though. Your belt will still be under the seat.

No it won't the seats a V kinda. And look at the pulley to the left, if the seat is into that one ur screwed that's why I need to break it off to one side.

Thunderdivine wrote:

Guess I can even use a chain and sprocket or a toothed belt for that part. So it should work.

I wanna route it to one side so I can get the seat all the way down on the transmission, or very close abit in front of the axle.

Personally, I'd get a set of #50 sprockets ground down to match #530 o-ring Motorcycle chain, pricey, but strong and would only need occasional lubrication.

Chain, if properly maintained, doesn't slip even when wet. Tension is easier to maintain too. And if it gets bad enough, it can be shortened

The oring chains are pretty well sealed, and a good chain wax can keep them in good running condition for a long time.

Chopperhed wrote:

Thunderdivine wrote:

Guess I can even use a chain and sprocket or a toothed belt for that part. So it should work.

I wanna route it to one side so I can get the seat all the way down on the transmission, or very close abit in front of the axle.

Personally, I'd get a set of #50 sprockets ground down to match #530 o-ring Motorcycle chain, pricey, but strong and would only need occasional lubrication.

Chain, if properly maintained, doesn't slip even when wet. Tension is easier to maintain too. And if it gets bad enough, it can be shortened

The oring chains are pretty well sealed, and a good chain wax can keep them in good running condition for a long time.

Yeah I'm considering a chain maybe a 50 chain? And a cvt or just a racing clutch

Less power loss with a chain too,

idler sprockets with good bearings cause less drag than pullleys with good bearings.

Toothed belts being an exception

Yea since belts are based on they're enemy to work: Friction!

Do you know where you can get those toothed pulleys and belts, like a Harley's drive train size wise.

Thunderdivine wrote:

Yea since belts are based on they're enemy to work: Friction!

Do you know where you can get those toothed pulleys and belts, like a Harley's drive train size wise.

I only know of harley drivs, and timing belts on cars easily. I'd imagine that local driveline shops (power transmission) would be able to supply industrial stuff.

Anything Harley will be stupid expensive, but all the little cars nowdays are using toothed belts for timing chains, and the are pretty tough, if used correctly.

Chain would still e cheaper, unless you have a source for free car parts.

Guess ima try chain. Surplus got the lot. To bad I already ordered pulleys earlier today

Thunderdivine wrote:

Guess ima try chain. Surplus got the lot. To bad I already ordered pulleys earlier today

Ouch, that sux, post them locally.

Knowing Norway, and being 1/4 Norwegian my self, There are bound to be a boatload of people there looking for parts for projects,

Chopperhed wrote:

Thunderdivine wrote:

Guess ima try chain. Surplus got the lot. To bad I already ordered pulleys earlier today

Ouch, that sux, post them locally.

Knowing Norway, and being 1/4 Norwegian my self, There are bound to be a boatload of people there looking for parts for projects,

Yeah they won't stay unsold for long haha

But what about gearing now then with some pulleys and some sprockets. My plan was 8" and 3or4" to the trans.

best thing about chain, is that it's easy to get, since Bike shops, agricultural supply stores, even industrial driveline shops, sell chain, toothed belts are a bit harder to get.

Indeed way easy. But what's standard bike motorcycle chain size?

It depends on what size you want.

Industrial #40 chain matches up to 400 series bike chain in regards to pitch

Industrial # 50 chain matches up to 500 series bike chain in regards to pitch

The big problem is the thickness of the srpocket, and the quality of the chain.

industrial sprockets, ie #40, #50 #60 etc. are much thicker than motorcycle stuff.

Second biggest rpoblem is finding bike style sprockets to fit standard shaft sizes.

Not easy.

Best option.

Buy high quality #50 sprockets to the size you need, to fit the shaft you need.. Buy a o-ring bike chain to the length you need.
have the sprockets surface ground to the thickness needed to match a 530 bike sprocket.

Bike chains and sprckets are narrower/thinner than the industrial/ agricultural grade equivialents.

I'm running a #50 chain over a 530 sprocket, and the sprocket is way thinner than the #50 jackshaft sprcket.

Surface grinding is the best way to shave something like a sprocket down, without getting it hot enough to change the temper of the steel.

It's time consuming and expensive though, unless you have access to the equipment.

So do a 1:1 gearing with chain and have the actuall gearing with the pulley.

Nah I have access to lathes etc but not a precision grinder. Is it much difference in width?

Thunderdivine wrote:

So do a 1:1 gearing with chain and have the actuall gearing with the pulley.

Nah I have access to lathes etc but not a precision grinder. Is it much difference in width?

#50 sprockets are just about twice as thick as #530 atv sprockets

Chopperhed wrote:

Thunderdivine wrote:

So do a 1:1 gearing with chain and have the actuall gearing with the pulley.

Nah I have access to lathes etc but not a precision grinder. Is it much difference in width?

#50 sprockets are just about twice as thick as #530 atv sprockets

Wow really, I looked at some pics of industrial sprockets, looks like they're flat like you said.

But industrial chain was real cheap.

Industrial chain will work just fine, but it will require more maintenance.

I'm using #50 from the jackshaft to the rear axle, the chain is way too wide for the sprocket, but I couldn't find a 530 sprocket to fit a 1" keyed shaft

You would have to makè them I guess, maybe try to get hold of some motorcycle side stub axles and. Weld em to the jack shaft. Then we could use proper sprockets for the proper chain also.

Like these: https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=1-3091&catname=powerTrans

Unsure what type the motorcycle sprockets use tho.

another option is finding a Big #50 sprocket, and having it drilled to match the bolt pattern of the ATV sprocket, but that won't be cheap.