6x4 lt1000

im starting a craftsman lt1000 all terrain mower its gonna have a rear engine rider transmission (the chain drive type ) im gonna run two rear go kart axles so all time 4 wd but instead of chain i was thinking belts cause i have acess to thousands for almost free would it slip alot if it gets wet and if so how would i fix this as of right now its a frame with 20 inch tires in the front and for the rear i want some atv tires that will fit on my 10x8 rims if you know of a size lt me know thx all help greatly appreciated

I would just weld an angle frame to the back to make the frame big enough to fit 2 axles. Dont waste your time with belts. they will probably slip like crazy especially when they get wet. I would do it right and get sprockets and run a chain. Maybe even add a mechanical disc brake then you can stop really well. I cant wait to see it done!

well im sortof on a budget and i got belts for free practically and chain and sprockets arnt cheap so if i tensioned them alot would it work

Make it crazy tight and it should work. It is just not the best way. If it works out good maybe I will build a 4x6!

Over tightening chains or pulleys will destroy bearings and bushings in your trans and engine. Or whichever bearings the shaft goes through.

Your right about destroying the bearings. You wouldnt have to worry about the engine bearings because these belts would be only connecting the transmission and the axles togeher. Those belts are going to have to handle alot of low end torque so with out them being tight i think they might slip. It would help if you used large pulleys because they will slip less. Definately use heavy duty bearings and not bushings on the axles. I would just make sure to get bearings that can take the additional stress of the belts being tight. The right way to do it would be chain and sprockets especally from the transmission to the first axle because a really tight belt would probably kill the tranny bushings / bearings.

Bushings will definately go fast, bearings will last a bit longer, Rather than over tightening the belt wich is very hard on parts and causes premature stretching and breakage. I would reccommend running dual or triple belts.

Do not overtighten anything attached to the engine, unless you want to kill it.

I just had a look at Princess auto website, and I could buy sprockets chains and hubs for about 40 bucks, and I would have 6-8 feet of chain left over. Thats Canuckistaninan pricing, your prices down there should be cheaper.

I get weldable hubs for 4.50 each x 2 + 9.00
1 get weldable sprockets #50 10 tooth 4.50 each x 2+ 9.00
#50 chain, (bigger than what is on my quads snd dirtbike) 2.30 per foot ( 10 feet min) 23.00

9+9+23 = $41.00 ( cheaper than a messed up trans or engine )

BTW Princess auto also sell oilite bushings that fit my MTD transaxle, for 6.00 a pair.

I agree go with the chain drive.

well i want to use the stock clutch on the mower but belt slips how can istop that without goin centrifugal or could i go clutchless chain all around cause i did that on a belt drive racing mower with peerles 820 for years and i still got that mower in pristein condition and #50 i was thinkin 40 cause around me 40 is cheap and strong

lt1000 wrote:

well i want to use the stock clutch on the mower but belt slips how can istop that without goin centrifugal or could i go clutchless chain all around cause i did that on a belt drive racing mower with peerles 820 for years and i still got that mower in pristein condition and #50 i was thinkin 40 cause around me 40 is cheap and strong

If you want to stick with the stock clutch. My reccomendation would be a jackshaft of some sort. use a short small dual pulley belt from engine to jackshaft, that you can keep protected. Then, off the output side of the jackshaft, use # 40 chain and sprockets for every thing back to the final drive. Chain final drives can handle more abuse
It woud take more fab work, but belt clutches are very tuff when used right.for the horsepower requirements you need #40 chain should be fine. .if you have bucks to spend a 430 series oring will give you very good service and not need as much lubrication, plusn it will handle more power thana standard 40 series chain..



In all truth, my centrifugal cluth is #40 and its rated for a lot more than my 13 hp. I used #50 final drive chain because the stock warrior sprocket is a 520 pitch and it matches up

I recall one thread where someone put a horizontal shaft motor on his tractor - he used a belt from the motor to a jackshaft ( to clutch) - then ran a chain from the other side of the jackshaft to the rear axle .

I bot a couple heavy duty go kart clutches for tractor mods - one uses a belt, the other a chain, ive yet to use either of them yet actually...

I have a '70 toro with a belt to the trans then a chain drive from the trans (was all stock) to the axle - thing was a lil beast in the mud/water- even when one of my tires came off the rim , id spray WD40 or soak the chain with old oil every so often to keep the rust away - actually only issues i had with that was the stock rear axle bushings wore out and the chain kept slipping off, i replaced those weak pieces with pillow blocks and havent had a problem since.

is that too a rear engine rider if so same design except engines in the front with two axles in back

Both tractors had motors up front - the 70 toro's trans is similar to a peerless 700, but larger and a 3 speed - has the lower input and side sprocket.

same design then