Not sure if anyone has mentioned it. But before you tear into the engine to check compression release, maybe even before looking at the starter. Check the valve lash adjustment. I think I set mine around .004.
ok i figured it out. got it running, for some reason it starts up on one cylinder then the left side fires up. its struggleing to start but it starts and runs... rough! anyways... it took it out on the first drive... as far as i know i just need to make better transmission mounts. the rear pan frame flexes quite a bit and when it does the wheel motors move with it, causing the rear of the tracks to want to move. the front settings work great! so i just need to make either slides for the tracks or bogie wheels. and transmission mounts. and so far the tracks are staying aligned for the most part except when the transmission move. i wil keep you guys posted. much more to go on it!
Crazy_Carl Veteran Member
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Age : 35 Join date : 2017-10-30 Points : 5331 Posts : 2561 Location : Rochester, New York
so i was digging thru my engine hoard and came across my 20 hp kohler single... yup the Kohler Courage 20. and if any one has had one, you know the block cracks from loose cover bolts. well mine runs but it spits oil cuz the block is cracks about 2" down from the top. and as usual the cover bolts are loose. has anyone ever used jb-weld on this? i was told to have it welded by a welder.. the guy i know says not to waste time on it. any thoughts?
George Gooding Member
Age : 50 Join date : 2018-06-15 Points : 2497 Posts : 133 Location : Joplin Missouri
As much as I hate this guy, he has an alright video on fixing one with epoxy. If you had a tig setup readily available you could certainly fix it but it's not worth your time imo.
should i use the plastic track slides or should i use wheels in picture? with the wheels, say i drove over a small log, in between each set of wheels its going to tighten and put alot of strain on the tracks/ drive axles... if i use slides, it wont have any where to flex the track up but may make unwanted friction... whats your guys thoughts?
RichieRichOverdrive Moderator
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that was my thought as well. i happen to have 2 sets of suspension that are the same... i was in the middle of welding on my transmission mount and ran out of wire... off to tsc i go in morning.... i hope
MatthewD Veteran Member
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Age : 23 Join date : 2014-11-16 Points : 5751 Posts : 1993 Location : Northern Ireland
That's the thing. With the frame braces I can't put them close together. They have a 5-6"gap. But they do fit perfectly between the frame rails on my track frames
well the build is being put on hold for a while unfortunately.. the vtwin needs a carb and it needs a new battery. out of the 6 i have, every one is junk and out dated. cars falling apart and might possibly be moving. i may or may not update this for a little while. If i muster up the ambition to peck away at the track system i might upload pictures but im out of project money, cant afford parts and keep up on everything else all at once.
hotrod-craftsman Member
Age : 22 Join date : 2017-08-26 Points : 2697 Posts : 51 Location : omaha nebraska
i have a kohler courage 21, as you said the top cover bolts always come loose, just a warrning be careful of the rocker arms. my engine blew one arm and the pivot bold. spacing for valves is .06 for intake and .07 for exaust you will need to know that if they get loose like how they always do...
well i havent done alot. i had to break budget and buy some new tools.. just hafta love it when your drill burns up while in your hand.... but i did get the bogie wheels mounted and transmission mounts, might add some pictures tomorrow... supposed to rain all day so lets see what i get done...
I've always admired that "pickup" in your profile, do you have a build thread? Nice project BTW.
I didnt do a build thread on it but i do have a few videos on youtube on it. i will post a link to it and people can skim through my videos. all it is, is 2 craftsman frames "bolted" together (didnt have or know how to use a welder at the time). Then i moved rear axle back, lengthened my linkages and i believe i had to order a 180 inch belt on amazon.. but that would change depending where you mount your axle. i used it for plowing and would load sand on the bed so i could have weight and sand walk ways when i was done. I ended up selling it to a farmer from Mass that needed to transport his fence post around his field and something to toodle around on. i plan on building another some point soon. https://youtu.be/t6Op2zeGN9M https://youtu.be/rpkQLI-_mkE https://youtu.be/U48xM102ugk
well things are still tough as far as funds go so unfortunaltely unless some mericle happens the build is being put away. not sure when i will get it back out or what my next plans are. im currently doing alot of landscape work at my landlords place and i tell my self every day how useful it would be to have my dozer.. i fell asleep last night thinking how i would make my next set or idler wheels/sprockets to keep track aligned if i need them. the biggest hold up right now is an engine. i keep getting hand me downs that have issues. The vtwin has a broken valve spring and a bent valve. so it needs a rebuild as far as im concerned. i found a brand new single cylinder on amazon for a decent price. now i gotta find the funds to get it. Not sure what i will do next... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IUAYEYU/?coliid=IXEKRQVBC9RJ6&colid=N5ZMBERJ72R8&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Crazy_Carl Veteran Member
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Just get a new head for the V-twin. I bet you could save it without spending money for a "rebuild". And by the way I've seen one of the new briggs OHV blow the head gasket at 54 hrs.
ok ive got a new (used) engine. it was running when i got it. i put it in the dozer but need to use my ign switch. ive got a few of the wires figured out. im having problems figuring out what the A1,A2 and yellow do on the tractor side of plug. the all are in a plastic sleeve and run up under fly wheel. the colors are (red,green,blk) can someone tell me what wires do what? im using my 7 pin switch. i know the b is batt, s is solenoid, m is magneto/kill, l is lights. but ive got an A... oh ang G is ground...